Wandering Retirees

This morning started really pretty in Silverthorne. The sun was shining, the birds were chirping and we looked forward to climbing Mr Evans. Fortunately, Connie checked the weather forecast first and it didn’t look good. Snow showers and snow flurries and 1-3 inches on top of what fell last night. Oh, and a projected high of 34F. It was an easy but painful call: not today and not this trip despite two attempts. Oh, well.

Connie scouted a nice route heading away from Mt Evans that looked fun. We plotted a loop heading north on CO 9 to Kremmling and Gore Pass. With that decided we treated ourselves to breakfast out at a great Mexican restaurant in town. On leaving, I detoured to a Yamaha Powersport shop next door.

Why? To say thanks to Mike, the owner for some helpful advice he gave. See, my helmet comm went on the fritz after we returned home last night. it wouldn’t shut off and would not recharge for the next day. The owners manual wasn’t helpful, nor was a call to tech support at the manufacturer. Mike directed us to some resources relatively close by if nothing else worked. He was thoughtful and kind. When I stopped in with our thanks, we had a great conversation and he suggested an improvement to our planned ride.

By the way, the solution turned out to be both simple and befuddling. We kept the comm on until its battery was fully drained and the unit shut down. (Connie’s idea.) Then we set it up to charge overnight and, lo and behold, it worked fine this morning. Tonight we have the same issue so we’ll follow the same remedy until we can get a replacement. An inconvenience that’s annoying but we can work through it. Back to the ride.

We rode about 25 miles up Rte 9 along the Blue River. Easy and beautiful riding that we enjoyed very much. Then, taking Mike’s suggestion, we turned west onto Trough Rd, a hard pack dirt road the Leads to the head waters of the Colorado River. It was a peaceful and stunning ride with only a few vehicles to share the road with heading the other way. I had no problems with the bike at all, it performed beautifully.

If you’d like to view our route, you can do so here.

https://scenicapp.space/ride/czLmdOah

Then we got to the Gore Valley Scenic Overlook and it was spectacular. Looking down from a height of about 1,000 feet, the Colorado River gorge was laid out before us. The Amtrak rail line that serves the Rockies is carved into the steep walls on the western bank. It was hard to imagine that the small river we saw today swells over more than a thousand miles into the source for two huge reservoirs behind mighty dams, and supply water for homes and agriculture in more than 10 states.

Trough Road followed the Colorado River for quite a ways before emptying onto Co Rte 131 which we took north toward Toponas. If we had followed 131 further then we’d have found Steamboat Springs. Instead, we cut east on Rt 134 past Deadman Gulch and over Gore Pass. We stopped in Kremmling for a cuppa and a nosh at a cozy Saloon on Main Street. Our enterprising waitress brought us our refreshments and talked us into taking home a frosted cinnamon bun “baked by grandma on premises,” and weighing about a pound but only costing six bucks. She saw us coming. And I’ll let you know how grandma’s baked goods stack up.

We met a guy who noticed our PA plates and wanted to know if we were really from Pennsy. We assured him we are legitimate and he set off on a brief but full description of his work building nuclear power plants in Berwick and Norristown. Connie was born in Berwick and still has family there. The man, who refused to share his name seemed satisfied with the encounter and walked off without another word. It takes all kinds, doesn’t it?

We picked up Rt 9 again heading south and got back around 5:30, very happy with our ride of 155 miles. Since tomorrow is a travel day to our next base, we packed our things and sat down to eat and relax.

Despite our rain outs, we’ve had a great time here in Silverthorne. Our accommodations were very comfortable and we’re thankful to our hosts.

Thanks for following along! Have a great night.

Today was a gorgeous day with only limited rain forecast for late afternoon. So we headed east to Georgetown and the beginning to the Guanella Pass Scenic Byway. The road is 22 miles long and offers a twisty ride with lots of sharp turns through the Arapaho Nat’l Forest. The road tops out at 11,670 feet with a magnificent view of Crystal Lake and the surrounding mountains. It’s a popular hiking destination and we had the pleasure of meeting a father/son pair, Bill and Lucius. Lucius is on summer break from school and they take full advantage. When we met they just finished a five hour trek to a nearby peak and they still looked fresh. This past December they climbed Mt Kilimanjaro in Tanzania. Really interesting and conversation with really friendly guys.

Later in our ride we climbed to Mestaa’Ehehe Pass, formerly known as Squaw Pass. Located near Evergreen and Idaho Springs, also in the Arapaho Forest, the pass tops out at 9,790 feet. The route we took was a little off the beaten path that Connie found and it proved fabulous! Coming off US 285, the ride up started on Rte 73, Stage Coach Blvd, then Witter Gulch Road, and then over the pass on Rte 103. Stage Coach and Winter Gulch roads were so much fun with more than a dozen switchbacks and beautiful turns. It reminded us of roads in the Austrian Alps. If you ride in this area, try this route!

Our route for the day. Definite must do!

https://scenicapp.space/ride/nrtVzTAB

You all know us and the pleasure we get from a good meal. We stopped for lunch at a rustic barbecue place called The Smiling Pig on Rte 68 in Bailey, CO. They brag about the care they put into preparing their meats with really good cause. We had a brisket and a pulled pork sandwich that were stunningly good. wish we’d ordered takeout for later.

We rode back to Georgetown for a cuppa at the coffee shop we visited the other day. Myami wasn’t there, unfortunately so we couldn’t visit some more. Then back to our digs and mundane tasks. Like laundry. It was time.

Tomorrow it’s on to Mt Evans, weather permitting. Looking forward to another

good day.

Yesterday the weather was really pretty awful, so we chose to limit our travels to a quick shop, the post office, and a bite to eat. The shopping concerned necessities and snacks which are normal supplies. The stop at the Post Office was to mail home extra stuff we brought along that we didn’t need but have been taking up valuable space. And brunch was a pleasurable meal out because pancake mix doesn’t fit anywhere in our pack plan. A nap, some reading and an early night were real pleasures.

Today, the 13th, we were determined to make a long loop south and west of Silverthorne. I’d like to mention that there was frost on the ground and on Shiney at 7 AM, and an ambient of 35 F when we loaded up. We made a fair imitation of the Michelin Tire mascot as we scrambled aboard. It did warm up some, reaching almost 60 F at one point. There was also a rather enormous moose munching in a flower garden as we left the development; we paid each other no nevermind.

Our route took us south on CO Rte 9 by the Dillon Reservoir and following the Blue River, climbed toward Breckinridge, a famous ski and resort area. Lots of fine twisties, some hairpins led us to Hoosier Pass at 11,500 feet. Gorgeous views all around, even with light rain.

At the little town of FairPlay, we picked up US 285 and continued south to Buena Vista where we stopped for fuel and a stretch. We talked to a guy who claims to have nine years to go until retirement and wants to do what we’re doing when he gets there. There is so much that is beautiful out there!

We turned north on US 24 and rode through Granite and rolled into Leadville, a small town that is home to a National Mining Museum and has a ton of charm. We got a look at the Silver Dollar Saloon, billed as the “Best Wild West Saloon in America” when we stopped for lunch at a Mexican restaurant called “Casa Sanchez.” On walking in we recognized that many of the patrons are local folks, which is always a good sign. We both had burritos and they were out of this world. The bike was fully laden when we climbed back on.

We continued north and marveled at the grandeur all around us. Turning East on I 70 we passed Vail and the several ski resorts that surround it. It’s hard not to be impressed at the scale of tourism in Colorado. Luxury resorts and condos and related businesses are going up at a considerable clip. It’s impossible to appreciate the scale of tourism here until you see it for yourself.

We arrived back at our temporary home a bit after 3 PM and enjoyed warming up with a cuppa. We are so enjoying our stay here.

One final note for those who have expressed the opinion that we are not in our right minds: riding in the cold, in the rain, on a motorcycle.

I concede that we are a bit crazy; non compos mentis; whatever. By the same token, we’ve seen numerous rafting, canoeing and kayaking expeditions, spray in their faces, hurtling down snow fed rivers in 40 F weather. They are smiling. They really seem to be enjoying themselves. I posit that these demented souls are the ones who are truly cracked. Surely not Connie and I. Surely.

Have a great night, and thanks for following along.

Connie and I rode out of Estes Park toward our new base in Silverthorne, CO. Our six hour route took us along Rt 119, the Peak-to-Peak Hwy we so enjoyed our last time through. Mt Meeker is particularly impressive. We realized we were tired from our days’ rides. So we took our time and stopped often to stretch, drink some water and enjoy the view.

There was a bad storm brewing late in the day and we wanted to sit it out. So we pulled off I-70 to a coffee shop / trading post in Georgetown called Colorado T-Shirt and Espresso Bar. They had a little bit of everything. We got a cup of coffee and a nosh from an engaging young woman named Myami who is in her early 20’s and hails from Michigan. After graduating from high school at 16 she has traveled for a number of years as a seasonal worker to resort areas in multiple states including Michigan, Arizona, Texas. (Alaska is on her horizon, too.). Her demeanor is bright, open and friendly, and she is very sharp.

Myami says her experiences will help her choose a place to settle that is a good fit. She’s made a lot of good friends on the road from all over the country. And she has plans for her future as a professional in a service industry. Sounds like a plan to us. She is another remarkable person we’ve been so lucky to meet. (She very graciously allowed us to take her picture to share on our blog.)

The weather cleared as we finished our coffee. Which was good because Myami was closing up shop. We said our good-byes and finished our ride to Silverthorne. Our new base is in a condo complex that is always full during ski season, but Sier I fully quiet now. It’s located above Silverthorne at about 9,000 feet. The view is awesome overlooking Dillon Reservoir and the surrounding valley about 800 feet below.

Today, the 11th, we decided on a down day, went shopping and prepared some home cooked meals for the next few days’ stay. It’s funny how homogeneous grocery stores are everywhere in the country. Everything is similarly placed and pretty easy to find. Except Whole Foods, which is always an adventure.

Tomorrow we have reservations to take the Mt Evan’s Scenic Byway to the just below the summit. At 14,213 feet, it’s the tallest of the peaks in the Front Range of the Rockies. The road to the top is the highest paved road in North America, and fifth highest in the world. The weather in Colorado, and especially the higher elevations, is always subject to change unexpectedly. We’re very excited to ride to the top of Mt Evans, though weather is forecast to be very cold with the possibility of snow. Cold we can deal with. But snow? We’ll see what tomorrow brings.

As always, thanks so much for listening and following along. Have a good night.

Hi Friends. It’s 10 pm MDT and we are just home from a wonderful day. We met our friend Andre for coffee and then rode to Laramie WY to visit Hank’s niece, Amy, and her husband, Sam, for dinner.

It was a rainy ride to Laramie. But that’s how it is on the road. We caught some cool shots of the landscape and sky.

Amy and Sam married last summer and promptly moved from Ohio to Wyoming so Amy could start a post doc program. We enjoyed hearing their stories about moving to the high plains and about their work. They are great company. Sadly, we didn’t get a photo before we said goodbye. We were focused on hitting the road and driving into the dark.

Today we met up with a friend we made on our motorcycle tour last year. Andre lives in a small town north of Ft Collins and is a long time Coloradan. He’s a pilot for Delta and happened to have a day free to ride and share some good roads on his new bike. We rode for nearly nine hours with stops for lunch and stretch breaks, and covered 250+ miles.

Connie and I left Estes this morning on US 34 and met up with Andre just outside Loveland. We got reacquainted over outstanding donuts from a road stand truck and headed north along Co Rte 27 toward Masonville. It was a pretty and curvy road but not too challenging. (Our guide said he’d take it easy on us.) Then along 38E which took us around Horsetooth Reservoir and really pretty terrain among the mountains of the Front Range. (The Front Range of the Rockies is the first string of mountains you see coming from the Great Plains. They run from Casper, WY to Pueblo, CO. ) Then the challenge.

Andre has ridden these roads for more than 20 years and knows some exceptional roads. Like Rist Canyon Road to I’m not really sure where. Heading west there were a ton of sharp twisties and a handful of hairpins that kept my attention pinned on the road ahead. We met up with Rt 27 again heading north to Rt 14, Poudre Canyon Rd, which led us along the Cache La Poudre River deeper into the mountains, nearly to the north east corner of Rocky Mountain Nat’l Park. The roads are good and thrilling. Along the way we passed Lower Dadd Gulch, and stopped at a Forest Service Visitors Center. An amazing ride through an area that has great sentimental value for Andre. It was wonderful.

After a brief rest we retraced much of our route to Andre’s beautiful home where he graced us with comfortable chairs and some good coffee for our return leg to Estes Park. An awesome day.

Tomorrow a little riding, some laundry and a trip to Laramie, WY to see family.

Today we hit the road two-up like we’re so happy doing. After Connie’s 12 hour travel day and a good night’s sleep, we took care of some logistical matters and set off along the Trail Ridge Road, US Rte 34, from Estes to Grand Lake. Park entry between 9 am and 2 pm is by timed reservation at this and other really popular parks to reduce the severe overcrowding that has plagued many Nat’l Parks. Our time slot was for entry between noon and 2 pm. The cost is still very reasonable and there’s no charge for the reservation. You just have to be sure to plan ahead, is all.

The weather started sunny and about 60 F when we left Estes. Climbing from the entrance at 7,500 feet to the highest pass at at 12,183 feet, the temperature dropped to the low 40’s. Flip flops don’t work for long up theres. Note: Trail Ridge Road the highest paved road in the US National Park system.

We stopped at the overlook for Forest Valley and walked out over packed snow to take in the wondrous sight. Above the tree line, the tundra is protected here. We also saw some Marmots, cute mammals that look like small groundhogs who are making the most of their short active season. We got a couple of shots of the critters.

The snow pack along the road is still five feet high in places. After slogging through mid-90’s heat to get here, it felt really good. There are some good twisties and switchbacks on good road to make us happy with the ride. This riding is not as technically difficult as we found in the Austrian and Italian Alps, but was still very enjoyable.

We lunched (great word!) in Grand Lake on the far side of the Park. The pizza was surprisingly good for outside NYC or Philly. Then we headed back the way we came and enjoyed it all again! And despite some dire forecasts, we only got rained on a little as we neared our cottage. A very good day.

Tomorrow we hope to meet up with a friend we met on our tour in Austria. He lives in Ft Collins and knows these roads well. Can’t wait to meet up.

Today has been a day of rest. I slept late, did some laundry and a little shopping, and waited for Connie to arrive. Which she did. We missed each other very much.

… Connie here. I mean really here, in Colorado. Long day of travel but there were no problems whatsoever. Gratitude. Now back to Hank.

Weather this week is an inconstant thing. Rain and thunderstorms are called for at least part of the next several days. We’re happy that the folks who live here are glad for the rain. We just hope for some good hours with the sun.

Tomorrow we’re heading into the Rocky Mountain National Park and the Trail Ridge Road. We loved it so much last time through and are very excited now.

We’re sorry to hear of the terrible air quality back East. We hope you are all ok. Be safe.

It’ll be early to bed again. We are both acclimating to the higher elevation welcome the rest. We leave you a couple of pictures that speak to us. Good night.

Another 800 miles between yesterday and today. Saw some nice scenery and talked to a couple of interesting folks, but I was pretty focused on getting to Estes Park. So dallying was kept to a minimum.

Yesterday was all about the heat. It hit 93 by 10 AM and traffic was slow. I made it past Kansas City (Kansas) and had to pull over to get cooled off and drink about a gallon of water. I’m grateful that I was able to spend an hour inside a chilly convenience store. I tried to make up for it by drinking the high priced expensive H2O with vitamins and minerals and maybe fairy dust, too. Feeling better I pressed on to Oakley, KS where a cool shower and an early bed time did wonders.

Today started pretty and got better. Sunrise was a gold and red burst of pleasure. It was a bit hazy and that may have added to the spectacle. When I saddled up it was already almost 90 so I skedaddled toward higher ground. Pretty soon the road climbed the Colorado plateau and the temperature dropped.

I intentionally stuck to roads off the interstate as much as possible. Riding north on KS rte 27, then US 34, I found myself on the Land and Sky Scenic Byway, a procession of hills, arroyos and big sky. There may be a pic or two that can make it. The road took me through many small agricultural towns, like St Francis, Haigler, Wray, Yuma, Otis and Brush before landing at Fort Morgan, CO and lunch. I parked next to a Highway Patrol motorcycle that looks a lot ours. It’s a R1250rt that has lots of extras. The officer was inside the restaurant so a brief conversation was inevitable.

Fort Morgan is at 4300 feet and after lunch the road climbed further into the mountains. Estes Park is at 7500 feet. Some rain and lots of cool air and … nice! since we’re staying here for a couple of days, I’m heading to the grocery store for some supplies. Connie flies in tomorrow and our adventure begins. We’re so very excited!

One extra: As I was unloading the bike, a pair of Elk bulls sauntered through this group of cottages. They were big and handsome and completely indifferent to my presence. They sampled richly from a flower garden and some tender leaves conveniently within reach. And taking their time, they grazed their way through the entire park before wandering back into the forest. I was very lucky!

More tomorrow. Have a good night!

Yesterday, the 2nd was a very long day. I set out west along the I-70/US-40 corridor toward Terre Haute, IN. A couple of positive notes about the day.

I stopped to fuel up in a little burg just east of Zanesville, OH and went into the mart to cadge a cup of coffee. Because riding with a cuppa is beyond my abilities, a small cup to drink right away was in order. There is no such thing as a small cup it seems, only 20 ounces (medium) and up. So I filled a medium cup about half way and took it to the counter. The man behind the register, whose name I learned is Erik, was aghast that I should pay for less than a flagon of this black gold. (I exaggerate maybe a little.). That started a conversation that lasted a delightful 30 minutes. I know you’re as surprised as I.

Turns out he’s of retirement age but is working part time to earn some cash and fill some hours. He’s affable and funny and erudite and kind and really interesting,

He grew up in rural Ohio and ultimately graduated from a local conservatory with a degree in Music. He was trained by a maestro from Julliard in NYC, and has played Beethoven sonatas from an original score. He also rides a 2001 Yamaha cruiser and loves the hills and back roads that he would be delighted to share. He wanted to know about our trip with lots of details. What a gem of a man! And his boss loves him as does everyone who came in. Message: don’t underestimate the people we meet. Expect the unexpected. I hope to meet him again one day.

Another high point was a stop in Richmond, IN, just over the border from Ohio. It was lunchtime and I ate at the Cracker Barrel just off the highway. (Love their pancakes.). Downtown was just a mile down the road so I went, finding some elegant buildings dating from the 20’s and older. And there is a wonderful oasis from the heat, called the Glen Miller Park. I was delighted by the beauty and peacefulness there, but a bit disappointed to learn that it had nothing to do the famous swing band leader. I learned it was named for Colonel John Ford Miller who bought this shady glen and opened it as a park in 1885. It was great, though.

Richmond also boasts the founding of Gennet Records, which featured recordings of Louis Armstrong, Hoagy Carmichael, Jelly Roll Morton and Gene Autry. The label is closed long ago, but it’s quite the source of hometown pride.

After dilly dallying at my stops, I hustled on to my destination in Terre Haute. The exhaustion at the end of the day was self inflicted, I admit. But really worth it. I checked in at 8:30, took a shower and sank gratefully into the arms of sweet Morpheus.

Today I started out with great determination and a commitment to stay on schedule. Yeah, well.

Since my route took me by St Louis, I detoured to look at the home where my family in Kirkwood. My memory being quite vivid, I really thought it would be easy to find. Again yeah, well. Neglecting to use Google Maps, my direct route turned into so many concentric circles. I passed Schnucks Grocery (yes, that is a real name) but the homestead lane was an elusive mystery. Even after stopping to consult the app, it still took more than an hour to find it. But find it I did.

The current owner graciously met me at the door and allowed a few pics. It has really changed. The saplings my folks planted are now towering trees that offer a cooling shade it the hot, humid, crushing heat of that part of the Mississippi Valley. My wobbling memory met with a pleasant dose of updated reality. And the folks who live there are the same who bought from my parents, so there was a happy connection.

By then it was lunchtime so I took a chance on an Indian restaurant in town, called Anis Hyderabad House in Creve Couer. Modern in all respects, it provided Bollywood music videos on a giant screen and super delicious food. I had a veggie Buryani that was to die for. My mouth smarted afterwards but it was worth it. Had to open my visor to let the airstream do its cooling thing.

Along the way, the contraption that allows me to place my phone on the handlebars (hands free map) decided to crap out. Fortunately I noticed it’s demise just in time and was able to save the phone and stow it in my tank bag. A little dicey at 70+. Which led me to pull over to get my center again. Which led to a meeting with two riders on the way to the Grand Canyon via Ft Collins CO. Herb and Ryan are a father/son duo from Ohio who are living the dream. so we chatted for a while. (Well, yeah.) Their joy was contagious and helped me find my focus.

Even allowing for the time change, it was still a 10 hour ride. So here I sit after a shower (public service) and a cold drink. I think of the days so far and am amazed. I’ve traveled three days, logged over 1200 miles, my butt is suing for separate maintenance, and I’ve enjoyed the whole thing. The scenery is beautiful, though west of Columbus, OH it flattens out. But there are so many great folks whose paths I’ve crossed.

What’s neat is that we humans are often more likely to be open and engaging with total strangers. Isn’t that funny? We share our stories and are glad for the meeting. I am fortunate and blessed.

Tomorrow it’s off to Kansas. Have a good night.