Wandering Retirees

Home for the 4th!

The final leg lasted a little over five hours and 190 miles and I’m sure glad to be home!

Of course it was still hot but the fireworks and barbecues hadn’t started yet so no one was acting crazy on the road. My route involved some side roads and some highways. I am pleased to say I did not incur a single toll on the ride back from Colorado. Not one. I have this thing about tolls, you see. We pay our taxes, which includes money for transportation, which means roads and bridges and tunnels and asphalt. Hate to pay twice. Connie and friends roll their eyes but it remains a bugaboo. So if I can avoid tolls, I do.

And I did.

A shower and a kiss were welcome homecoming events. We unpacked some and put the bike in the garage. And we started to take stock of our adventure. About 7,000 miles all told, from sea level to 14,000 feet, and from 40F to 104F. Striking pictures and memories of mountains and plains, and rivers and wonderful people along the way.

We left Colorado just as the wildfires began. It’s heartbreaking, so many people, so much wildlife and so much land impacted. Our prayers are with you.

Well, no it’s time to catch up with life, lawn and duties. Get the bike ready for another adventure that is as yet unnamed.

We are so blessed to have this chance at life, and are blessed to have friends like you to share the journey. Thank you so very much for checking in and your wonderful comments. You’ve made our journey better because you were there.

Hank and Connie

Yesterday the 2nd I rode to Marietta, OH, on the bank of the Ohio River, a scant 250 miles. Despite the promise of high 90’s heat, I took back roads to enjoy the ride. So it took me a little longer, close to seven hours plus stops. I was bushed and didn’t feel up to writing.

I remember hearing forecasts growing up describing how weather traveled up the Ohio Valley then turned east to take over east coast weather. The river separates Ohio from West Virginia but doesn’t actually look all that big. And the valley is very pretty, but nothing like the Mississippi Valley. It’s a random thought but it has me baffled still.

One thing I can say about the Ohio Valley is it’s home to some fabulous roads for riding. Nothing treacherous or too taxing, but just fun! If you ride, I heartily recommend OH 320 and OH 550. Those alone made the ride worthwhile!

I met a neat character when I stopped in Glenview, OH for a break. I was parked in the shade of an apartment building when this older gentleman sort of shuffled by. He almost kept going but changed course to investigate, I guess. Tommy is in his 80’s, I would guess, and not nattily attired. Says he’s lived in this town all his life and worked hard as a laborer until he had a stroke about 10 years ago. Since then his disability has run out and he lives on $646 a month. “Can you believe that? But I don’t complain ‘cause it doesn’t help.” We talked a bit more, then he bid me good-bye, saying he’s glad we met as he continued his stroll around the corner to heaven knows where.

I wonder if he’ll remember my name, or that we met. The talking was important to him, I feel. Maybe a once or twice a day thing. In my heart I suspect he was about wanting to be seen, to shake hands and talk a bit as a man. I’ve thought about him quite a bit.

I encountered a couple more folks that day, sharing greetings and good wishes. None were as important as Tommy.

Today started in the 80’s and shot up from there. I was tempted to take the back roads again but sanity prevailed. Using the interstates, I traveled six hours and stopped five times. The thermometer passed 100 around noon, peaked at 104 and stayed there until I pulled into Chambersburg, PA for the night. Feeling a little whipped.

Tomorrow is the 4th of July, and I look forward to getting home.

And now to the arms of sweet Morpheus…..

Be well.

Long day’s ride. 368 miles traveled in some impressive heat.

Moving at speed certainly helped considering the cooling factor in evaporation. As a matter of fact, I stopped five times to buy cool water and luxuriate in air conditioning. Each time I stopped, I bought a large bottle of chilled water, drank most but poured the rest over my neck and shoulders. It felt startlingly great! That also got me a few wry comments and not a few smirks, even outright laughter. Glad I could entertain. Worth it because I felt good.

I took I 72/US 36 most of the way to Indianapolis then headed north to Muncie, Indiana where I’m spending the night. The traffic combined with construction made it challenging to avoid road rage. Directional signals are clearly optional and often bear no relation whatever to action when they occur. So I spent time slowing down, head on a swivel, and muttered naughty words to myself.

The caution and muttering both helped my frame of mind.

My motel is comfortable and welcoming and is located in a. Ommercial section of town. I must be channeling my engineer father because I noticed that every lawn is meticulously manicured. I don’t mean neatly mowed. I mean geometric perfection. Using the German: alles ist ordentlich. Hardly a tree in sight, but all is uniformly trimmed green. Coming from the sometimes chaotic east coast, it seems that something is wrong. Different strokes.

I also found that folks aren’t quite so open to meeting a garrulous traveler. Civility and manners certainly rule the day. But there’s a diffidence that I notice. There’s just a different culture of social interaction with folks from outside. Not complaining, just noticing.

So today was a “get there” kind of day. With stops I needed 10 hours of travel. Tomorrow it’s off to Marietta, OH, only about 275 miles. I may have time for a stop or two to see what’s what.

Anyway, have a great night. Be well!

Monday the 29th

Had a great but long, tiring day yesterday. It was a 300+ miles day that started in Norton, KS and ended in St Joseph, MO. My route took me along US 36 nearly the whole way. It was quite hot (95+) and the wind buffeted me with 20 mph winds with gusts up to 35. I found myself stopping frequently to replenish fluids and catch a breath.

At a Casey’s station in Smith Center, KS I tanked up and was swigging a cold bottle of Gatorade when a big (BIG) man, about my age, exited the store and rummaged through his trunk. He approached me with something in his hand and without preamble complimented my bike and launched into an involved story about his riding days, his career as a long haul trucker, the work he does part time, and his disdain for GPS gadgets. I could tell he’s told this tale before, and was so interesting I could only hold my peace. Actually, he didn’t pause long to get a word in. I did mention he was big, with a full scruffy beard and, a worn ball cap and so tall he towered over me. I felt it right to be polite and give him his say.

When he wound down, stuck out his hand to introduce himself as Bear, though it wasn’t his real name but he’d always been called Bear by everybody so that’s his name. I took that brief pause to interject my name and say I was delighted to meet him.

Well, he put out his other hand and showed me some bumper stickers and said he’d be delighted to give them to me, though I’d only need one but could give them to my friends if I had any.

Seems he supplies these for an annual rally and buys some more for occasions like this.

Bear was interested in why a Pennsy rider was riding through town and when he discovered I was heading home from Colorado he reminisced on his days hauling specialized steel pipe to the east coast. I couldn’t help but be interested in this man’s story. He was really quite endearing and I liked him very much.

He went back to his car to bring back a road atlas that was well worn and well marked. He convinced me that since I was headed east on US 36, I should take a side trip up KS 281 through Lebanon to see the geographical center of the lower 48 states. He showed me the route on his map and circled it for me, twice. I couldn’t miss it, he said. (Oh, boy). He parted ways with the same intensity. I nearly lost my hand as we shook, said he was glad to make my acquaintance and roared off on his next errand. I was left nearly speechless by the encounter but really glad we met. I counted my fingers and mounted up to go see this wonder.

It was right where Bear said it was. North through Lebanon, KS a road sign proudly proclaimed the geographical center of the contiguous 48 states is in a small park lovingly created by the good people of Lebanon with a monument, a picnic gazebo, and even a chapel proclaiming this is the Heartland of America. It’s set on a hill surrounded by huge farms. I had the place to myself , and though hot there was a nice breeze rippling through the trees and grasses that surrounded it.

The monument was built in April 1940 with data from the US Coast and Geodetic Survey, which now falls under NOAA. A common image is this is the spot, if you could support it on your finger, the entire lower 48 would balance perfectly. I thought it striking that this peaceful place is set in such a pastoral location, with farm roads leading off into the distance to so many industrious places. I really enjoyed it.

Leaving Lebanon, I rejoined US 36 and entered Missouri and took shelter in St Joseph, a city of about 72,000 people in the east bank of the Missouri River. After a shower and a change I went down to a happy hour in the lobby with surprisingly good food. There I met Dave and Debbie from Chillicothe, IL who rode in on a big Indian Motorcycle. All I had to do was compliment their ride and they graciously invited me to join them. They had a mishap on their bike: thankfully no serious injuries but their steed suffered some damage. We commiserated for a bit, then turned to happier topics. Dave and Debbie are co-owners of a monument company making markers and headstones. They do it all, from acquiring and transporting raw stone to finished polishing and lettering to installation. They are friendly and open and smart, and curious about the people. I found myself making up for lost opportunities to be involved in conversation. We spent a really nice evening just getting to know each other. I’m so glad we met.

Thence to bed.

Today was a shorter day, though it was still very hot. And humid. Only about 200 miles but blisteringly hot. And humid. Lots of stops for breaks and fuel. But nothing remarkable except for the pleasure of the ride to Hannibal, MO. We talked about Hannibal as we rode through a month ago. (Has it really been a month?)

After checking in to my lodgings, I headed to the Mark Twin Diner and their Hand-Maid sandwiches. A stroll along the bank and back to the hotel and the keyboard.

Tomorrow is a very long day, about 370 miles to Muncie, IN. The heat should be a little more intense so I’ll be taking the interstate (sigh) and lots of stops. I figure 8-9 hours over all. I’ll let you know how it turns out.

So for now, to bed. Be well.

On the way home.

We had to say bye to Colorado early this morning. It’s inevitable that we have to return eventually to grown-up land. Things to do, grands to chase. (Sigh)

Truthfully, we are ready to head home, get some rest and pickup with life.

Connie set off to the airport to fly home and get her rest by chasing some grands. I’m riding home over the course of the next seven days and plan to arrive on the 4th. There’s a fairly strong heat wave covering the Plains and Mid-West so my rides will start early to beat the worst of the heat. I covered 310 miles today to reach Norton, KS. It didn’t quite reach 100F until the last 50 miles. I’m luxuriating in the cool as I write this.

There’s not a lot to tell about the ride today. Coming down from 7,500 feet to around 2,300 means increased heat and humidity. There are some huge farms that are busy with planting and tending their fields. Because there has been less rain than hoped, the dust level is often dramatically high. Farmers don’t get days off when there are miles of fields to be worked.

I have a couple of pictures that give some idea of the vastness of the area. Farm buildings are often miles apart and a trip to the store is a big deal. So is going to the doctor, dentist or the hardware store. I’m reminded of how little I know about the rigors of raising a family while raising crops or livestock.

When I got to town I stopped in the local grocery store to buy supper fixings and a couple of sundries. I felt like a curiosity in my riding gear – which thing doesn’t belong? But when I moved into someone’s personal space, I was met with civility and good manners. Conversations weren’t really the thing, you know. But I was treated as a guest and accorded politeness. It was not off-putting, but gives me pause considering another culture within our broader national life.

About two hours into the ride, I pulled over along side the road in a rare stretch of shade. Below was a dry creek bed that had enough moisture to support a grove of Aspens. While I drank some water and took in the surrounding countryside, not one vehicle passed in 20 minutes. Dozens of birds flew about looking for whatever they eat chattering away in the shade. Three miles of empty road stretched away in both directions on CO 94. It felt both magical and a little disorienting because I can’t imagine such a scene in the East.

At another stop, after turning from US 40 to US 83 North, at Oakley, KS, was the Buffalo Bill Cultural Center that features huge statues of a mounted Buffalo Bill about to shoot a bison. Bill Cody was born in Oakley and is celebrated for his famous prowess at horsemanship and shooting. Being Sunday, the center was closed so there wasn’t a conversation to be had. It was also hotter than a pistol just then. There was a brick walk with dozens of sponsors who helped finance the memorial. Even the local Masons lodge was a proud sponsor.

I have to admit I have mixed feelings about this. Whole herds of bison were slaughtered for the sport of it. Local native tribes saw their source of sustenance and way of life decimated to nothing more than the joy of the kill. At the same time this community of settlers have found a source of pride before the world. Personally, one of my forebears was a servant in Wild Bill Cody’s Wild West Show before starting a family. Makes me wonder. It seems one’s heritage is a convoluted thing.

Well, enough for tonight. I’m planning to get on the road early again.

Please take care.

Pikes Peak and Housekeeping

On the Ridiculous and the Sublime.

Yesterday, the 26th, we got up early, had some breakfast, suited up and headed out to the Pikes Peak Scenic Highway to start an ascent to the top. It’s the last big item on our itinerary and we were very excited. We came prepped with an oxygen can, extra warm clothing and sunscreen.

Pikes Peak is not administered by the Nat’l Park Service, but by the City of Colorado Springs which puts a lot of resources into upkeep and improvements. Because it’s such a popular destination, the City can count an a lot of direct revenue which can be turned around quickly into maintenance. And we saw this immediately because the roads are well maintained, signage is good and there are plenty of amenities – read clean restrooms. It is a beautiful ride!

Early in our ascent, we noticed that reservoirs were really low for this time of year. There’s a picture that show boat launches stranded 20 feet from the low water mark. This makes us think of Lake Mead and Lake Powell, which help supply water and electricity to much of the South west.

We’re told that Denver demands a huge portion of available water, which stretches availability for other communities. It’s really concerning because there’s no snow pack and very little rain recently.

The road up to Pikes Peak is 19 miles long. The entrance station is at mile 7. We had made a timed entry reservation costs $2 online in advance, and paid the entrance fee. For us that meant $36 for the day. Then we were off and we had a blast!

We were met by a convocation of mountain goats who really couldn’t have cared less that they stopped traffic. Stopping for views became important, too.

It took us about an hour to make it to the top and park in a designated motorcycle area. Which of course got fellow riders talking and comparing notes. Our PA tags got some comments!

The Visitors Center is an impressive building built right into the mountain. We moved slowly at 14,130 feet to get to the canteen where coffee and world renowned donuts were to be had. There’s some special recipe they use that works well at that altitude. We think they’re worth the trip.

The cog train station is right outside and it transports a lot of people everyday. Quite a few were dressed in t-shirts, shorts and flip flops who were trying to look brave in a windy 45F environment. Connie and I looked like arctic travelers with our 30 layers and boots. We did have the satisfaction of our warmth. The beach goers probably wished they did.

We had lots of wonderful views on top and did the mutual I’ll-take-your-family-picture-if-you-take-ours thing. And we did take puffs from our oxygen bottle when we moved a lot. The O2 level at 14,000 feet is only 60% of sea level. We recommend you have one on hand, too.

The descent was fun and easy for the most part. We met some cars whose drivers seemed intimidated by the road. Pretty hard to argue with that. Until you gain confidence it can be downright scary. So we all took our time. No one pushed or hassled the cautious ones. Nice to see civility in action.

From the sublime to the mundane. Laundry. Clean socks and skivvies are important to unit morale. A couple of hours and morale was assured.

We had supper at the hotel bar and met a couple from Huntsville, AL who were on a kidless getaway. Kristin and John are delightful company. Especially considering we are 25 years older. We wound up talking for hours and enjoyed every minute. They turned in early because they were taking a group bike ride down Pikes Peak in the morning. Both are very fit so the physical challenge shouldn’t be too bad. But down hill on bicycles where there’s no engine breaking to be had?! We think they’re very brave. Hopefully we’ll see them later and find out how it went.

Today is relax day before the journey home. We’re celebrating our anniversary today and have plans for a nice dinner. Time to get dressed so it’s time to wrap up.

Connie will fly home tomorrow (Sunday) and I’ll start the ride back. Should be pretty hot most of the way so I’ll be starting earlier in the day to beat the heat. I plan to be in on Saturday next.

For my part, I’ll try to share some experiences along the way. It will depend on the weather and road conditions. So hopefully we’re not done yet.

As always, thanks for following along. Take care of you!

Off to Manitou Springs.

The last leg in our Colorado tour took us to Manitou Springs, a cute city just west of Colorado Springs. We really enjoyed our stay here when we visited in 2023 and wanted to come again. We’re even at the same hotel, The Cliff House at Pikes Peak. Very fancy and an end of run splurge!

We left Idaho Springs about 10:30 to get on I70 West to Georgetown where we picked up CR 381, the Guanella Pass Road. Taking it relaxed we climbed to 11,680 feet to Guanella Pass and down the other side. It’s stunning territory no matter how you travel. There are lots of pullouts and scenic overlooks where you can let the grandeur of our land sink in. The sky was overcast with spritzes now and again. There’s also a lot of haze from the wildfires in Utah and elsewhere. A sobering thought concerning our environment and its challenges.

We continued on to US 285 that brought us to the Jefferson Denver South Park & Pacific Railroad Depot which is a National Historic Landmark marking the terminus of a narrow gauge railroad that ran from about 1880 to 1937 serving cattle ranchers, miners and passengers.

Our immediate goal was to find some hot coffee because we were a little chilled. So we stopped at the cafe next door, The Moose Caboose and got in line. The coffee was good and plenty hot! There we met Jeffrey and Rob and who are life long friends. Even though they live 2,000+ miles apart, San Francisco vs Columbus, OH, they’ll meet wherever the fancy takes them. This time it’s Colorado. In August it’ll be Alaska! They turned us on to Butler Maps, which are really helpful resources for riders. We gave them the skinny on Mt Blue Sky, where they suddenly wanted to go. It was a fun conversation. More, it strikes us as remarkable that a friendship will bring them together so durably over the years.

Co 77 was next and it is a beautiful, fun, twisty route through vast swatches of ranch and forest land. It’s the kind of riding that is both exhilarating and relaxing at the same time.

We finished on Rt 24 into Manitou Springs and check in. We have the pleasure of an upgrade to the General John Pershing Suite! We’re not sure what makes this a general’s room, but the bed is soft and the decor is early 20th Century.

Whimsy is in dangerous of taking over at this point. We’re tired and need our rest. Sweet Morpheus is calling!

Tomorrow is Pikes Peak and we’re off to an early start to make our timed entry reservation.

Yesterday, the 23rd, we wandered around Idaho Springs to get a feel for what this town is like. The downtown has been blocked off as a pedestrian only area with tons of cute shops, restaurants, curio sellers, jewelers, rock/mineral shops, second hand emporia. It’s fun to walk around. A couple of buskers were playing quite well for change; one was delighted we knew who Pete Seeger was. Actually so were we. It reminds us of what New Hope, PA used to be before it got fancy and yuppified. We like this town.

On our way we stopped in at the Visitors Center staffed by a quintessential “retired” hippie. Wilma is a woman of a certain age who was raised out east, lived life completely, and finally landed in this town of mountains and accepting society. We talked at some length with this fascinating woman who is replete with tattoos and some hair raising tales of youth. She was delighted to share of her life and her happiness from finding this place to call home. Despite the trials she has endured, she is grateful for the life she has.

It seems that many folks who settled here from other places have sought out towns like this where they can feel at home, finding acceptance for whom they are. Not a bad definition of home, don’t you think?

Idaho Falls boasts its own hot springs resort and of course we took advantage. It was a fair 10 minute walk from our lodgings and worth the effort. Entrance was not cheap: $35 each but it was wonderful to soak in the common pool. Everyone was polite and respectful so it was easy to let our muscles unwind in the 100 degree water. About an hour divided in three shifts was plenty to turn us (me at least) into mush.

Today we got an early start to get to Mt Blue Sky for our timed reservation. We geared up for plenty of warmth because the weather is a little different at 14,000 feet. Riding to the entrance gate for the Mt Blue Sky Scenic Drive was really pleasant in the morning light and brought us to about 10,000 feet. After checking in at the gate, administered by the City of Denver, we rode 14 miles across ridges and through switchbacks to reach the paved summit at 14,130 feet. The temperature had dropped from the 60’s to low 40’s. (Hence, the layering up.) I’m glad it was cool because, as beautiful as the ride was, it was challenging. Even brought a drop of dew to my brow. The road was every bit as narrow and twisty as the roads in the Italian and Austrian Alps. They required close attention.

There’s a rhythm to riding alpine roads. When you find it you stop focusing on technical minutiae and start looking through each move to the next. It’s like dance steps that gradually become natural and fluid.

Coming up to a goat or elk in or along the road, the dance lets you adapt to the change without stumbling or freezing up. Which is a good thing when there aren’t guard rails and you’re not quite sure what a fellow driver (or a goat) is going to do. We got a couple of pictures (Connie got the shots) of some goats who were having a klatch at the inside apex of a tight turn. All but one decided to scoot. The last one sat contentedly chomping some grass and wasn’t moving for anyone. Nope. Not gonna do it. About a half-million dollars worth of vehicles quivered at a halt waiting on the pleasure of a 40 pound goat. Amusing in retrospect.

The vista at the top is beyond spectacular. Despite smokiness due to wild fires in Utah, we could still see for dozens of miles. It’s breathtaking! Speaking of which, we bought a canister of O2 for the low, low price of $20 and we were glad to have it. At 200 puffs per canister, that’s only 10c a puff. A bargain at any price when you want it.

The ride down the mountain was easier because the roadway below is more visible. When we reached the entrance to the park, it was exhilarating to check off this bucket list item. It feels awesome!

That’s about it for tonight. Thanks so much for checking in! Be well.

To Idaho Springs

Today we said good bye to Estes Park and picked up the Peak to Peak Scenic Highway from Estes to Black Hawk, CO. It’s a 55 mile route established in 1918 that gives up close views of the Continental Divide along the Front (eastern) Range. In layman’s terms, we took CO 7 south out of Estes Park and picked up CO 72 which took us to Boulder. From there the Peak To Peak continued with CO 119 to Black Hawk. From there it was a short sprint into Idaho Springs and our lodgings at the Columbine Inn, a privately owned motel.

Across the street is the old Argo Gold Mine and Mill,. Established in the early 1800’s it became a major processing center for the gold rush years. It has since closed as a mining operation, but welcomes tourists to try their hands at panning for gold flakes and nuggets.

We rode for a little over 3 hours today and covered only about 110 miles. It was a fun ride indeed! At the same time, we find we’re starting to run low on energy at the end of the day. So we’ve made a decision to be a bit more willing to take rest days in preparation for the epic rides that are still ahead. It feels a little wimpy to admit this, even though we’ve logged more than 4,000 miles so far. Maybe realism has a place after all.

Hope you have a good night, and thanks for checking in!

Be well!

Yesterday was a down day for rest and laundry and a little four mile stroll around the Estes Park Reservoir. Everyone said it’s easy and restful and invigorating. They lied. It is pretty and the mountains look spectacular reflected off the water. But we were whipped at the end. We barely had energy to drop in the local chop house for a Father’s Day supper and then fall into bed. Rough, huh? 

Today we headed out for a fun tour of Poudre Canyon and a visit to Mishawaka Cafe and Resort. We rode here in 2023 with a friend we met in Austria in 2022. Unfortunately we couldn’t connect again this year, but the ride was fun and satisfying. Our trek lasted about 130 miles over four hours. 

Along our route, we stopped at the Masonville Mercantile Store on County Road 27 (Buckhorn Road). Wow! A blast from the past if ever there was one. The outside and inside have been lovingly restored to reflect an older age of community general store. In addition to necessities, there are advertisements for home remedies of all kinds, including Snake Oil that cures everything that ails you. There’s a kiosk for Zoltan the Magnificent who, for a modest consideration, will tell you your fortune and bring you luck. (Look up the movie, “Big” with Tom Hanks.). Of course it’s kitschy, but it’s done so lovingly and honestly that you can’t and shouldn’t resist stopping in to buy.

While wandering the mercantile, we met Greg and Kathy (we think the spelling is right) from nearby Loveland, CO. They are about our age (don’t say anything about dinosaurs, Ben!) and we’re out riding on their brand new Can-Am, a 3-wheel cycle with two wheels in front and one in back. We’re sure you’ve seen them; they are as open as two-wheelers but more stabile. Greg noticed our BMW because it matched his old ride to a Tee. He battled cancer and won! But it left him wanting a little more stability, hence the Can-Am. But his old bike had given him so many wonderful memories.

Of course we shared suggestions for good rides and experiences on our bikes. Greg offered a lot of solid suggestions about local conditions. Talking shop it was: with memories we wish we could reanimate again. This was a couple we felt were well met.

Tonight we’re getting set to travel a little south to Idaho Springs for the next stage. If you check your map, you’ll see we’re riding just west of Ft Collins and Denver. This will put us in range of Mt Blue Sky (formerly Mt Evans) which we intend to ride to the top. We are very excited!

Have a good night! We send you our best.