June 6, Estes Park, CO

Today has been a day of rest. I slept late, did some laundry and a little shopping, and waited for Connie to arrive. Which she did. We missed each other very much.

… Connie here. I mean really here, in Colorado. Long day of travel but there were no problems whatsoever. Gratitude. Now back to Hank.

Weather this week is an inconstant thing. Rain and thunderstorms are called for at least part of the next several days. We’re happy that the folks who live here are glad for the rain. We just hope for some good hours with the sun.

Tomorrow we’re heading into the Rocky Mountain National Park and the Trail Ridge Road. We loved it so much last time through and are very excited now.

We’re sorry to hear of the terrible air quality back East. We hope you are all ok. Be safe.

It’ll be early to bed again. We are both acclimating to the higher elevation welcome the rest. We leave you a couple of pictures that speak to us. Good night.

Rocky Mountain National Park as seen from the front of our lodging.
The little cottage were calling home.

June 4 and 5 Oak Grove, MO to Estes Park, CO

Another 800 miles between yesterday and today. Saw some nice scenery and talked to a couple of interesting folks, but I was pretty focused on getting to Estes Park. So dallying was kept to a minimum.

Yesterday was all about the heat. It hit 93 by 10 AM and traffic was slow. I made it past Kansas City (Kansas) and had to pull over to get cooled off and drink about a gallon of water. I’m grateful that I was able to spend an hour inside a chilly convenience store. I tried to make up for it by drinking the high priced expensive H2O with vitamins and minerals and maybe fairy dust, too. Feeling better I pressed on to Oakley, KS where a cool shower and an early bed time did wonders.

Today started pretty and got better. Sunrise was a gold and red burst of pleasure. It was a bit hazy and that may have added to the spectacle. When I saddled up it was already almost 90 so I skedaddled toward higher ground. Pretty soon the road climbed the Colorado plateau and the temperature dropped.

I intentionally stuck to roads off the interstate as much as possible. Riding north on KS rte 27, then US 34, I found myself on the Land and Sky Scenic Byway, a procession of hills, arroyos and big sky. There may be a pic or two that can make it. The road took me through many small agricultural towns, like St Francis, Haigler, Wray, Yuma, Otis and Brush before landing at Fort Morgan, CO and lunch. I parked next to a Highway Patrol motorcycle that looks a lot ours. It’s a R1250rt that has lots of extras. The officer was inside the restaurant so a brief conversation was inevitable.

Land and Sky Scenic Byway

Fort Morgan is at 4300 feet and after lunch the road climbed further into the mountains. Estes Park is at 7500 feet. Some rain and lots of cool air and … nice! since we’re staying here for a couple of days, I’m heading to the grocery store for some supplies. Connie flies in tomorrow and our adventure begins. We’re so very excited!

One extra: As I was unloading the bike, a pair of Elk bulls sauntered through this group of cottages. They were big and handsome and completely indifferent to my presence. They sampled richly from a flower garden and some tender leaves conveniently within reach. And taking their time, they grazed their way through the entire park before wandering back into the forest. I was very lucky!

More tomorrow. Have a good night!

June 3 – Terre Haute IN to Oak Grove MO (with some detail about the ride on June 2)

Yesterday, the 2nd was a very long day. I set out west along the I-70/US-40 corridor toward Terre Haute, IN. A couple of positive notes about the day.

I stopped to fuel up in a little burg just east of Zanesville, OH and went into the mart to cadge a cup of coffee. Because riding with a cuppa is beyond my abilities, a small cup to drink right away was in order. There is no such thing as a small cup it seems, only 20 ounces (medium) and up. So I filled a medium cup about half way and took it to the counter. The man behind the register, whose name I learned is Erik, was aghast that I should pay for less than a flagon of this black gold. (I exaggerate maybe a little.). That started a conversation that lasted a delightful 30 minutes. I know you’re as surprised as I.

Turns out he’s of retirement age but is working part time to earn some cash and fill some hours. He’s affable and funny and erudite and kind and really interesting,

He grew up in rural Ohio and ultimately graduated from a local conservatory with a degree in Music. He was trained by a maestro from Julliard in NYC, and has played Beethoven sonatas from an original score. He also rides a 2001 Yamaha cruiser and loves the hills and back roads that he would be delighted to share. He wanted to know about our trip with lots of details. What a gem of a man! And his boss loves him as does everyone who came in. Message: don’t underestimate the people we meet. Expect the unexpected. I hope to meet him again one day.

Another high point was a stop in Richmond, IN, just over the border from Ohio. It was lunchtime and I ate at the Cracker Barrel just off the highway. (Love their pancakes.). Downtown was just a mile down the road so I went, finding some elegant buildings dating from the 20’s and older. And there is a wonderful oasis from the heat, called the Glen Miller Park. I was delighted by the beauty and peacefulness there, but a bit disappointed to learn that it had nothing to do the famous swing band leader. I learned it was named for Colonel John Ford Miller who bought this shady glen and opened it as a park in 1885. It was great, though.

Richmond also boasts the founding of Gennet Records, which featured recordings of Louis Armstrong, Hoagy Carmichael, Jelly Roll Morton and Gene Autry. The label is closed long ago, but it’s quite the source of hometown pride.

After dilly dallying at my stops, I hustled on to my destination in Terre Haute. The exhaustion at the end of the day was self inflicted, I admit. But really worth it. I checked in at 8:30, took a shower and sank gratefully into the arms of sweet Morpheus.

Today I started out with great determination and a commitment to stay on schedule. Yeah, well.

Since my route took me by St Louis, I detoured to look at the home where my family in Kirkwood. My memory being quite vivid, I really thought it would be easy to find. Again yeah, well. Neglecting to use Google Maps, my direct route turned into so many concentric circles. I passed Schnucks Grocery (yes, that is a real name) but the homestead lane was an elusive mystery. Even after stopping to consult the app, it still took more than an hour to find it. But find it I did.

The current owner graciously met me at the door and allowed a few pics. It has really changed. The saplings my folks planted are now towering trees that offer a cooling shade it the hot, humid, crushing heat of that part of the Mississippi Valley. My wobbling memory met with a pleasant dose of updated reality. And the folks who live there are the same who bought from my parents, so there was a happy connection.

By then it was lunchtime so I took a chance on an Indian restaurant in town, called Anis Hyderabad House in Creve Couer. Modern in all respects, it provided Bollywood music videos on a giant screen and super delicious food. I had a veggie Buryani that was to die for. My mouth smarted afterwards but it was worth it. Had to open my visor to let the airstream do its cooling thing.

Along the way, the contraption that allows me to place my phone on the handlebars (hands free map) decided to crap out. Fortunately I noticed it’s demise just in time and was able to save the phone and stow it in my tank bag. A little dicey at 70+. Which led me to pull over to get my center again. Which led to a meeting with two riders on the way to the Grand Canyon via Ft Collins CO. Herb and Ryan are a father/son duo from Ohio who are living the dream. so we chatted for a while. (Well, yeah.) Their joy was contagious and helped me find my focus.

Even allowing for the time change, it was still a 10 hour ride. So here I sit after a shower (public service) and a cold drink. I think of the days so far and am amazed. I’ve traveled three days, logged over 1200 miles, my butt is suing for separate maintenance, and I’ve enjoyed the whole thing. The scenery is beautiful, though west of Columbus, OH it flattens out. But there are so many great folks whose paths I’ve crossed.

What’s neat is that we humans are often more likely to be open and engaging with total strangers. Isn’t that funny? We share our stories and are glad for the meeting. I am fortunate and blessed.

Tomorrow it’s off to Kansas. Have a good night.

Day 2 Washington PA to Terre Haute IN

Hank had a long, long, long day in the saddle today and asked that I put together a post. He was on the road for 11 hours because of an accident on I70 that had traffic stopped for over an hour.

He meandered into some small towns and had a chance to to chat with some local folks. It’s so cool to hear his enthusiasm for these micro meetings. There’s so much good if you look for it.

Tomorrow Hank will continue westward on I70. Interestingly, he will stop my his parents former home in Kirkwood MO just outside of St Louis.

I can’t wait to meet up with him in Colorado.

June 1, 2023: The Ride Begins

The ride west is finally here. Can’t tell you how excited we are!

Rolling out.

The preparations are done and I’m on the way west. Connie (read COO and Chief Quartermaster) has done her usual spectacular job. She has booked us at multiple cost effective and comfortable lodgings, and laid out the options for places that look interesting in Colorado (hundreds) and prepared us with an array of tools and apps for every occasion to keep the journey fun. We’re using TripIt and Scenic for routes and lodging; Recreation.gov for visits (and reservations!) at National Parks; COTrip for state specific visits, two (or three) weather apps that will help with daily planning, and JetPack to use as a platform for our blog. By comparison, left to my own devices I’d make a couple of hotel reservations and leave the rest to luck wherever and whenever we pull into town.

Her way is better and I’m happy to ride her coattails. I’d probably have us sleeping beside the road some nights.

Just as a note, the America the Beautiful Park Pass is a wonderful asset if you’re going to visit the National Parks. The cost of one card will gain you access to every park across the country. Individual day passes can get pretty expensive really fast. And since I’m a senior, my pass is a lifetime admission ticket for the rest of my lifetime for one a cost of about $80. A bargain if there ever was one.

I’m riding solo out to Estes Park, CO, giving me some time to be with myself. Connie is really generous that way. She will fly out to join me on Tuesday next to begin our exploration together. I’m enjoying my time now, but miss her already. We’re going to have so much fun!

Today, I headed out a bit before 9AM and arrived at my lodging at 7 PM, covering 413 miles in a round about way. That was about 8 hours on the bike, so my training of the buttocks is well begun. (If you’ve ever been on a motorcycle for more than a couple hours you know exactly what I mean.). I stopped several times to get a drink of water and allow feeling to return to my extremities. Lunch was in Bethel, PA in a Pizzeria/Café that beckoned patrons to have a seat and stay a while. Later I stopped in Grantsville, PA to get some water and dance around a bit. (Think blood flow.). Both are small towns with small town folks who are “Salt of the Earth”. Everywhere I stopped there was at least one person who took the time to welcome me to their place. In Grantsville, I was invited to visit the town park where there were swings and lots of shade to ease my weariness for a bit. Who does that?! Her name is Sandy and she didn’t know me from Adam, but saw I was resting with a cold bottle of water and approached me to offer some hospitality. Clearly she was proud of her small town. Clearly she could have gone about her business without a word. But she didn’t. She made a kind expression to this stranger. That just impressed and humbled me to no end. I had to ride by her town park: it was an inviting couple of acres with swings and a jungle gym, a ball field and a lot of shade trees. Had I had time it would have been a pleasure to stay a while.

As you may know, we have young grandchildren. As doting grandparents, how could we resist fitting them in somehow? I’m carrying a toy bumblebee that will appear mysteriously in pictures of our trip. It’s the kids’ job to find him (her?). It’s early so the job will be easy. Later it might be a little more challenging. Here’s a sample from today’s ride.

After checking into my nights accommodations, I met a mother-daughter duo who are on the way from Tucson, AZ to Allentown, PA. The daughter, Jeanne, will be staying the summer with her grandmother who is in failing health, in part to give mom a break. They are both graphic artists who can work remotely to keep home and hearth going. But how wonderful is that! What family will do!

If you’ve followed our blog in the past, you’ll recognize my tendency to lift up the kindness of the folks we’ve met. In our fractious society it’s amazing and encouraging to be reminded that so many Americans naturally reveal their innate generosity and friendliness to complete strangers. And others show their loving commitment to family. These are things we all instinctively recognize and value. Politics and social mores notwithstanding, so many of us share these fundamental values. I am filled to overflowing.

Tomorrow it’s on to Terre Haute, IN. I can’t wait to see what the new day brings.

August 20, 2022 – So Long Europe

This was the final day of our tour. Connie and I are both excited and delightfully tired from our adventure. While we’ve ridden longer distances in the past in a week’s time, we’ve not had a ride as demanding as this one. The entire route was technically demanding for us, and the narrowness (this is a word, right?) and curves made nearly every mile/kilometer quite intense. This was especially true of the ride through the Dolomites yesterday, and the ride returning today to Mieming.

All told, we covered about 1,000 miles (1,600 kilometers) in six days, with more than 4,500 curves and over 650 switchbacks. (I find it a little easier reading this on the backside of the trip!)

After a few kilometers’ warm up on well-maintained roads, we turned onto the Passo Della Erbe, also known as the Würzjoch (“Würz” means spicy!), a relatively unknown, single-track pass with great views. The road looks intimidating because it’s about the width of many bicycle paths in the US. This is especially true when you meet oncoming traffic in the form of a bicycle, a motorcycle or even a car! It turns out there is sufficient room for multiple vehicles to pass each other safely. We’re just used to (spoiled?) much greater room on most American roads. Whereas we had freaked earlier in the week when confronted with narrow lanes, by today we had gained sufficient experience to ride smoothly and confidently no matter the conditions.

This says a lot about our tour guide, Michael, who taught and coached us every day to ride with improved skill and pleasure.  Edelweiss provided us with great machines and a super tour leader.  We all feel as though we are much better riders after this experience.

By this time, the Dolomites were behind us and were again in the South Tyrol mountains. We continued our ride to the Passo di Monte Giovo (Jaufenpass). The 31 km long Jaufenpass is a very smooth ride and offers magnificent views of the South Tyrolean mountains. The pass summit at 2,094 meters is crowned by a tiny wooden hut called “Edelweisshütte”. The small parking lot in front was crowded with motorcycles. It was cold and windy with the threat of rain. We were grateful for some warmth, all ate a good lunch and rested a bit. Connie and I had a goulash soup that was hot and spicy and good.

We mounted back up and rode over the Jaufenpass to the Timmelsjoch, home to the world’s highest motorcycle museum and a spectacular ride. Connie and I had ventured up here on our own before the tour began, so we won’t repeat the description here.

After a coffee and some cake, we head downhill towards Mieming and our “Farewell Dinner” where we shared our stories and thanked our terrific host.

We made new friends with riders from Toronto, Seattle, Denver, and a little town just north of Nürenburg, Germany. Connie and I were the only couple riding. As is normal for us, we rode a little more cautiously than the singles, but shared so much fun learning the skills needed for successful Alpine riding.

Riding, especially high intensity biking, demands that you be “in the moment” every moment.  That makes it tough sometimes to recall the details that enrich the experience.  Connie did her usual amazing job capturing images and video clips of our tour and she shared her work generously with everyone.  You’ve seen some of the fruits of her labor here.  Everyone wondered how she could take such great shots while hanging on in those tight turns.  I don’t know myself, except that she’s an exceptional 2-up rider who knows what she’s doing.  I’m so glad we do this together.

Sunday is a pack-it-all-up and hump it to the train to Munich.  Then it’s pack-it-all up-neat so our bags can be checked in, and then hump them to the airport for our return flight.  We should get in late Monday night.  Being home and in our own beds sounds pretty good right now.  

We hope you’ve enjoyed our blog.  We’re tickled you spent some time with us and maybe found some enjoyment, too.  Thanks for checking in.  

And now, good night.

This video is really beautiful and shows some of the alpine scenery we’ve enjoyed. The valley really is a long way down.
A quickly made collage of the passes we rode.

August 19, 2022

Tour Day 5 – Levico Terme to Rasen Antholz via the Italian Dolomites.

Today was by far the longest and most beautiful day so far. We left our Hotel in Levico Terme and rode over 270 kilometers (nearly 170 miles) to Oberrasen, Italy through the heart of the Dolomites. We cleared seven passes with a combined more than 150 hairpin turns and over 1,000 curves. (Yes, someone actually counted them!). After the tough and tight switchbacks of Passo del Stelvio and others early on, these turns were challenging but so much fun!

The best passes were Passo Manghen, Passo Duran, Passo Cereda, and Passo di Giau. And unlike the famous Stelvio Pass, we met very little traffic through these passes. As a result, had a blast without feeling rushed or squeezed by buses and trucks. And our stops along the way gave us a chance to take in the Dolomites up close.

The name “Dolomites” is derived from the name of the French geologist, Déodat de Dolomieu, who discovered that the limestone in this area is chemically different from the mountains to the north. This means that this special sedimentary rock that has been thrust violently upwards forms incredibly rough and beautiful formations. Connie and I were reminded of the Sawtooth Mountain Range in Idaho which are high, very steep, and look jagged and dangerous.

Historically, the Dolomites are also very interesting. The region belonged to the Austrian Monarchy at the outbreak of World War I. The front ran right through the mountains. Austria was one of the losers of the war, and at the peace treaty of St Germain, Austria agreed to hand southern Tyrol over to Italy. Many of the road signs and villages still have both German and Italian names along what was the former Austrian region in southern Tirol.

The Dolomites at Passo Rollo

Riding through the Dolomite mountains we honestly felt the roads were built for motorcycles. And Passo Di Giau is the best. There are 55 perfectly constructed hairpin turns that have a rhythm to them. Our traverse felt almost like a dance, if that makes sense. And we had the pleasure of some mind blowing views.

The Dolomites at Passo Di Giau
The Dolomites at Passo Di Gaiu

Interestingly, there are a ton of speed traps along the way. (The only stretch of the tour where this was true.) There were big blue or orange barrels holding police cameras that will take a shot of your vehicle if you’re moving too smartly. It seems there is a history of local riders using the road to Passo Di Giau as a racecourse. The cameras have put a damper on that because traffic fines here are really steep. So we minded the speed traps and saved ourselves some cash.

It has been a long and fun day. Now to bed. Tomorrow is our last day. <sigh!>

Good bye for now, Dolomites! Thank you for sharing your majesty

This morning we left Levico Terme and rode to Passo Mangen

August 17, 2022 For Real!

This is an arial view of our hotel from Tuesday night. We rode a lot of hairpins and tiny roads to get there.

Tour Days 3 and 4 — Penegal , Italy to Levico Terme, Italy

As promised, here’s our entry for yesterday.  We left the Hotel Monte Penegal, situated on a sheer cliff about 5,700 feet above the Adlige Valley, heading toward Levico Terme, a small resort town about 20 km from Trento that sits well above a beautiful lake, Lago di Levico.  Though the distance isn’t much in a straight line, Michael, our guide, led us on a lot of fun roads to get to our destination. 

Our first pass was Passo Della Mendoza (Mendel Pass), which opens a path between two Italian provinces, South Tyrol and Trentino. This pass has long formed the border between the German-speaking and Italian-speaking regions of the Tyrol region. Bolzano is a town founded by the Romans over 2100 years ago and has been a trading center for most of that time because it’s almost dead center between Venice and Augsburg, Germany. Remember, control of the roads was essential to regulating, enhancing, and protecting trade. That’s why so many Alpine roads have such ancient origins and have been continuously improved over millennia . Our rides take advantage of these centuries’ old routes for our riding pleasure.

We continued over Passo della Palade (1518 meters or about 5,000 feet) and over Monte Bondone. The ride down Monte Bondone involved 40 switchbacks covering 1,450 meters (4,750 feet) in quick progression. The road was very good and the hairpins were not too tight. We always try to ride smoothly so our usual style was conducive to the road and we had much, much fun!

We landed at a lovely hotel in Levico Terme and had some fabulous pizza. But the day was tiring so Connie and I invited ourselves to crash early to bed.

Actually, “early” is a relative term. Our suppers all begin around 7:30 and can last a couple of hours. Part of that is the culture and partly to share time with our fellow riders. When we get up from the table after 9:30, we’re just about done. Very different from our routine at home.

The morning briefing
Hairpins leaving Penegal – see how they stack up?!
This is a road. With a bus coming upon a bike. This is normal here. 😳
Sigh
The first bike is our tour guide, Michael.
So many vineyards. So many mountains.
Fun!
The beginning view of the Dolomites
We’re bike #3 A fellow rider shared this with us
Riding through apple orchards