Wandering Retirees

This was a day we really looked forward to, riding the Cabot Trail. Turning right out of our motel parking lot we headed East on Ca Rt 105 to Rt 30 to the north coast of Nova Scotia through Marghee Harbor and then points east. The scenery is spectacular, and the riding is better. Including detours and turns to satisfy curiosity, we covered 195 miles over almost seven hours on this clockwise circuit of the trail. And the weather was perfect with sunny skies and 77 F.

The ride has most everything a rider could want, including high speed sweeping curves on the highland, hair pin turns descending and ascending the cliffs, and relaxing cruises through quaint towns along the shore.

We really enjoyed reaching the tip of the island at Cape North with the stunning view of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Taking a side road we revisited Dingwall, a vibrant fishing village. We stopped for a few minutes at a memorial monument to local men and women who gave their lives in both world wars. One side was in English, the other in French. Simple and elegant and moving.

A little later we stopped for lunch at a lovely beachfront diner named Seagulls. We had lobster rolls chock full of huge chunks of lobster and they were so fresh and good! Hint: don’t ignore the little places when it comes to good eating. Just saying.

In a bit it’s laundry time then supper then sleep. Tomorrow we get to do it again … in the other direction.

That’s how fun and cool it is. Have a good night!

We left Halifax at a leisurely hour this morning and rode about 240 miles to our lodgings in Baddeck on Cape Breton. The ride was a mix of Highway and some back roads through farmland and rocky shores.

There’s not a lot to say about the journey except to say that we met some interesting folks. Carly and her husband crossed our path at a country store / coffee house where we stopped for coffee. They are also riding 2-up on a motorcycle but are camping along their way to Newfoundland. Hailing from western Quebec Province, they’re escaping from nearly grown kids for some sanity time alone. Really energetic and clearly delighted to be together without micro-humans in tow.

We also met a couple yesterday who are riding from Phoenix on a Can-am heading to Newfoundland and Prince Edward Island. The rider is Phillipe, born in France, and his wife is Brigitte (I think) originally from Denmark. Turns out I recognized them in the hotel lobby from a FB post for Long Distance Riders posted that morning! Fascinating couple with a ton more stories to tell than I could tease from them in a brief visit. There is a slight chance we could meet again on the road. Who knows? And here’s hoping!

Tomorrow we’re off to ride the Cabot Trail. We are both so excited!

No pics today, but here’s a pic from 2013 when we first rode the Trail.

Have a good night!

We slept late today and rose to have some coffee and share the view of Halifax Harbour.

Halifax is the Capital and largest city of Nova Scotia with about 520,000 residents. It was founded in 1749 when Gen. Edward Cornwallis (yes, that one.) arrived with 13 transports and a naval vessel. His instructions were to secure the harbor and build the city, while defending it from the native population, the Mi’kmaq, who took umbrage that a foreign city was being built on their land in violation of a treaty with the English dating from 1724. Acadian and French settlers and traders were also quite unhappy and responded to the English with force. Cornwallis had four forts built, including Citadel Hill (nicely preserved), to defend British interests. The Brits won. The city prospered to become a center for fishing and commerce in the Atlantic Maritimes.

Halifax served as a forward base for the Royal Navy and Army during the American Revolution (1770’s to 1780’s), the Napoleanic Wars, 1803 to 1815 and the War of 1812. It also served as a refuge for Loyalists who fled after or even during American Revolution.

I’m interested because Halifax as the naval base was mentioned frequently in the Patrick O’Brien books about Captain Aubrey and Steven Maturin upon which “Master and Commander” was based. We visited the Maritime Museum with exhibits on the evolution of boats and ships over the centuries, a display of Titanic memorabilia, and a Chandlery, where ship’s masters and builders could acquire equipment and supplies essential to preparing a ship of sali for sea. The supplies on display included huge coils of rope for everything from string to 1” lines to trim sails to 2” cable for anchors. The were hand operated fog horns, pulleys and larger tackle for hoisting sails; marlin spikes for mending rope; sail cloth, you name it. Pretty important to have the right stuff when you’re thousands of miles from safe harbor.

We strolled on the shore path along the waterfront admiring the boats and ships, both powered and sail. We saw some interesting immersive art exhibits on the waterfront.

“Rise Again” invites you to look out over the harbour. It is a ritualistic climb in homage to past generations that worked hard and struggled at times, to forge this place. Rising out of the water, the form is proud and hopeful, as is our city.

At its apex is Tidal Beacon, an art installation that transforms with the changing environment. As the tides rise and fall, Tidal Beacon reacts, culminating with a beam that shines out over the harbour.

Much like Nova Scotians, Rise Again and Tidal Beacon are shaped by the sea. It remembers and honours our past while looking optimistically into the future. (Description taken from the website queensmarque.com/architecture/)

Except for some tourists the people we met are so friendly! And kind. We had great seafood at the Cable and Wharf on the water, and treated ourselves (twice!) to cones from Cows, next door. The ice cream was super good and came with unlikely name. I had Wowee Cowee, and Connie had Gooey Mooie. If it weren’t so good those words would never make it from my mouth. But it was good. So there you have it.

On the way back to our hotel we met Elizabeth. She entertained us for quite awhile as she worked to guard the entrance to a major construction site in front of our hotel. Her stories were funny, poignant and hopeful. She inspired us and wants to be remembered as “happy.” Thanks for the chat Elizabeth.

Tomorrow we head east to Baddeck on Cape Breton. Good riding and good weather ahead.

Have a great night!

Saturday, July 20th

Lovely day

Heading to NS by way of the ferry from Bar Harbor to Yarmouth. A breezy 3-hour tour. (Couldn’t resist.)

Loading was easy and kind of fun. Strapped our bikes to the deck so they remain stable at sea.

A bit of camaraderie among the riders who all park together. Riders from all over NA, including a fellow returning to NS from a tour of the southeast US. He proudly stated that he has visited 26 US states so far and intends to see all of them. Neat!

Arrived and unstrapped our bikes. I waited for our turn and headed to the pier. Connie and all other passengers were given a lift on a very fancy cart. This makes riding sometimes slick decks a little easier.

Forgot my phone on board. Ugh! Had to clear customs then ask for help. The ferry’s crew and the border staff were really kind and offered their help once all passengers had come ashore. We were asked to wait in an office on the Canadian side of the fence with two Ferry Company CSR’s, Sasha and Jackie who couldn’t have been kinder. In our conversation, Jackie offered that she is a rider, too. Her beauty is a 1981 Vespa scooter that still runs like a top. She even has an image tattooed on her bicep. Pretty impressive, if you ask me.

After a half hour of so, there was an announcement over the walk-in-talkies that my phone was found. Dale, the supervisor and a couple of the staff came to return it on their way out for the day. We are so grateful and they were really pleased to help out. Smiles and good feelings all around.

Oh, Man, I was lucky.

We finished our day having seafood at … Rudders Sea Food. I had lobster and Connie had fish and chips. Scrumptious and fresh. The restaurant was packed and had Worth the ride!

Speaking of which, we rode all of 12 miles today.

Sunday, July21st – on to Halifax

Logging 250 miles we made up our riding averages today. Leaving Yarmouth, we wound more or less along the southern coast, mostly on Rtes 3 and 103. Great riding through so many lovely little towns.

At lunch time we stopped in Lunenberg, a coastal village that boasts being is one of only two urban communities in North America designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Seventy percent of the original colonial buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries are still standing and in use. We stopped in a little cafe that served “Donairs”. What are they, you ask? They are a mix between a Döner Kebab (spiced lamb on pita with veggies and a yogurt sause) and Gyros (which are familiar to many Americans. I won’t say more, except that they are delicious and you should try one.

From Lunenberg, we continued on to Peggy’s Cove, site of a beautiful lighthouse on a rocky promontory. We had a coffee and a gander at the stark beauty of this part of the coast. (There might be a picture or two available.)

While there, we met Allen who lives in Halifax and rides a big Harley. We soon found ourselves wrapped in a wonderful conversation about just about everything. Allen is a 27 year vet of the Canadian military who served two tours in Afghanistan (Kandahar), the Middle East and Syria, among others. He follows American politics and actions closely, as do so many Canadians because Americas actions have profound effects beyond our borders. His perspective is eye opening, thoughtful and worth hearing. And kind. No great debates were settled, but we were glad we met.

From Peggy’s Cove we wound our way to Halifax and the luxurious Halifax Hotel where we will spend two nights. The family concierge and hard bargainer got us a suite for a song. We shall wallow in splendor while touring the capital of Nova Scotia.

It’s Friday, the 19th. We already dealt with Jason so there will be no tears shed that it isn’t the 13th, if you please.

But it was Friday and every working person was on the road to somewhere not called work. Or so it seemed. We chose quicker roads to make good time. Early weekenders made that decision moot. It’s fun to follow folks meandering to somewhere relaxing or nowhere in particular for mile after mile of double yellows.

Really.

Our choice of roads was US 202N to US201 to US202 again; then ME Rt 3 most of the way to Acadia National Park on Mount Desert Island. And Cadillac Mountain, one our favorite places on the planet.

The ride up the mountain requires a reservation and entrance fee. Kind of a bummer for folks who travel inexpensively. However, the fees cover maintenance and improvements that aren’t funded sufficiently in the federal budget. The choices we make.

The mountain road is so much fun with switchbacks, delightful curves and pull-offs for spectacular views. The top is even better with a panoramic view of the Park and the waters of Bar Harbor. We were blessed with a clear, sunny day so visibility was 20 miles or more. The sail boats were so pretty, if rather tiny. Even the foo-foo cruise ships looked like bathtub toys. Talk about a commanding perspective!

We hiked a little along the paths to stretch our legs and enjoy the beauty. Then we saddled up again and rode along the coastline north into Bar Harbor. All told, we rode about 170 miles today.

Of course we met some folks along the way. On Cadillac Mountain we helped a family from Indiana take a picture of themselves. (Connie rocked it!) The daughter had moved to Boston and invited her folks to come see Dave Matthews in concert. So naturally they came to Acadia many hours away to see the sights. Mom and Dad seemed overwhelmed that this place is so pretty! I found that moving, and it allowed me to rediscover the joy of first sight. (No message here, just an appreciation of their pleasure of seeing this place for the first time.)

Tonight we are in Bar Harbor. We’re staying in a lovely place called Mosely’s Cottage Inn. It’s pretty, quaint and immaculately kept. The owners are very kind folks. And it’s located within a few minute’s walk of some very good eateries. After a supper of clam chowder and fish and chips, we waddled back (at least I did) to relax and jot a few notes. Today was a very good day.

Tomorrow we’ll take a stroll and hop on the ferry to Yarmouth that leaves at 3:00. Looking forward to what tomorrow brings.

As I’m writing, I can see the beautiful falls on the Androscoggin River that delineates the western boundary of Lewiston, ME, our destination for today.

It’s day five, we’re acclimating to life on the road. Today we reveled in the sunshine and the green forests, farms and lawns in northern Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine in the summer. We rode about 200 miles from Stowe, VT over pretty secondary roads. Our route took us on Rt 100 north to Rt 15 east, to US 2. We had to divert to I-93 south because the road was closed due to severe flooding a couple of weeks ago. We picked up State RT 116 East, to US 2 to State Rt 26 to SR 119 and in. (For those who want to follow us on the map.)

Lewiston was first settled by white folks in 1770 and is likely named for Job Lewis, a Boston merchant and financial backer of early settlers. The town grew to become a city in the 1860’s and, based on the river’s great power, its economy grew on the shoulders of Textiles. Like many cities in the north, textile manufacturing moved south causing a huge loss of manufacturing and jobs. The city’s website claims significant efforts to repurpose these now empty buildings. And it looks like Lewiston is working to create extensive parks and recreation facilities to make the city a more attractive place to live.

Tomorrow it’s on to Bar Harbor, Acadia National Park, Cadillac Mountain, and lobster! (Not necessarily in that order!)

Monday and Tuesday were full days and we didn’t have the ooomph to post. Actually, I need to own that; the missing ooomph was mine. I’m now hoping to make amends.

We left Joe and Laurie on Monday morning having had a great time with their wonderful hospitality. We laughed and recounted stories of Val and Bob, and their shenanigans. we thank them from the bottom of our hearts for being such good friends to us.

The ride north from Dingman’s Ferry started blisteringly hot (95 degrees). So long as we were moving it was okay. Crawling behind trash trucks was not so okay, as you can imagine. We followed US 209 north into NY, crossing the Hudson at Rhinebeck, and sauntered on to Chatham, NY. The area is largely rural with wide roadways that have sweeping curves and beautiful farms. We were blessed with sparse traffic and temps in the mid-80’s. Our destination was a pretty AirBnB in dense woods just south of Chatham. My brother, Jeff, and sister-in-law, Rosemary were waiting for us. The gab fest commenced.

The house was beautifully laid with wall to wall books. History, philosophy, psychology, art, literature, you name it. Winston Churchill’s history of the Second World War in 4 volumes, the definitive works of Michelangelo, DaVinci, Van Gogh, and Chagall, and so on and so forth. We all felt like we were in a candy store. Better yet, I imagined that basking in the presence of such scholarship made us a little smarter. (Imagination doesn’t cost much.)

We learned later that the former owner of this house was something of a recluse and a misanthrope who loved her great books for company.

After breakfast, professionally assembled by Jeff, we walked a short ways to a unique place, the Taconic Sculpture Park. The creator/artist was Roy Kanwit, a self described hippy who bought the land with his wife, Mary DeBay and created a mystical place akin to Grounds for Sculpture in Ewing, NJ. Using concrete and stones from the area, he lovingly fashioned large installations celebrating Mother Earth, ancient Titans, gods and goddesses and more. There is a 20 foot statue of Gaea that overlooks the valley below. And he built a 4 story house out of local rocks and cement with his own hands.

Mr Kanwit and Mary DeBay kept this vision alive for 40 years. Roy died last fall, sadly. Mary, who graciously visited with us for nearly an hour, shared richly of her insights into the park and the legacy of her husband. We all feel richer for our time spent with her at the park.

Later in the day we went into Chatham to enjoy a good meal. Jeff and I found an advertisement seeking wait staff. Jeff just may have the look they’re looking for.

Today we climbed on the beast and rode about 225 miles (how the crow does not fly) to Stowe, VT. We’ve covered almost 500 miles so far. Tomorrow we’re headed to Lewiston, ME.

As always, Connie and I are tickled that you are reading this, hopefully with pleasure. It increases our enjoyment immeasurably.

Have a good night!

At long last we’re off on our ride through New England, Nova Scotia and Newfoundland. Our planning began months ago and has provided hours and hours (and days) of entertainment as we project our needs and wants on the road. That involved planning routes to sights we want to see, engaging lodging and making reservations for ferries and even some national parks.

Who would have thought that you would need reservations in America and Canada?! Go figure.Nevertheless, Connie claims she had fun finalizing our arrangements and can place the spreadsheets in evidence. My job of identifying some routes and getting the bike in shape was easy. Now I just have to ride. 😉

We hung a map that included Nova Scotia and Newfoundland in our upstairs hallway just on the way to the bathroom for inspiration. I noticed I was inspired a lot.

We pulled out around 10 this morning to make our way north in New Jersey principally along Rt 29, Rt 627 north along the Delaware from Milford NJ to Phillipsburg, and County Rt 519 toward Dingmans Ferry, PA. 

There was some fun stuff along the way here. When we left Morrisville, it was already nearly 95 degrees and we’re not yet in prime biking shape. We were very glad to arrive in the Poconos where it’s about 10 degrees cooler. We can also look forward to some more very hot days before getting to Canada where 70-80 degrees will be the norm. (We think and hope). 

When we needed a break, we stopped at the Blairstown Diner, (in Blairstown NJ) which is still famous as a setting for Friday the 13th! It was at this diner the head counselor sat with a cup of coffee and peach pie while his charges were being unalived at the campground. So we had a cup of coffee and a slice of pie amid dozens of hockey masks and posters of terrified kids. Delightful.

We subsequently ran into a little difficulty when the mapping app we were using led us into a number of dead ends, especially in and around Delaware Gap Nat’l Recreation Area. Very pretty roads but many seemed to go nowhere we wanted to go. At one dead end, we had to make a U-turn on a gravel stretch and we fell at slow speed. I didn’t do the things I know to do on a tight turn, and worse, I looked down. Since the body follows the head, that sealed the deal. We are both a little bruised but we picked the bike up and got on our way. The worst injury seems to be my ego. That’s survivable if embarrassing. 

Our destination today is the home of Joe and Laurie, dear friends to Connie’s sister, Val and brother-in-law, Bob. They have become our friends, too. They have a lovely home on a lake in the Poconos and generously welcomed us into their home. The setting is beautiful and so very peaceful. Add in great company and the mishaps of the road don’t hurt so much. We are grateful. 

Tomorrow we’re planning to continue north to Chatham, NY and spend a couple of days with my brother Jeff and Rosemary. 

Have a great night!

On July 14th, Hank and I are heading out on what we hope to be an intoxicating journey through New England to the breezy Canadian Islands of Newfoundland and Nova Scotia. Both islands are rich in maritime history, with charming villages scattered along picturesque coastlines and beautiful mountains and cliffs.

In Newfoundland, we plan to visit the infamous Gander International Airport , where residents of Gander welcomed 38 international flights, sheltering and feeding nearly 6,700 evacuees from around the globe when flights were grounded after 9/11. On Nova Scotia, we’ll pay our respects at the memorials and graves of those who perished on the Titanic and about the how the people of Nova Scotia helped survivors.

To top it off, we’ll enjoy of riding our bike Shiney along thousands of miles of winding roads through New England and Canada, living in the moment on our “happy place.”