Wandering Retirees

Monday the 29th

Had a great but long, tiring day yesterday. It was a 300+ miles day that started in Norton, KS and ended in St Joseph, MO. My route took me along US 36 nearly the whole way. It was quite hot (95+) and the wind buffeted me with 20 mph winds with gusts up to 35. I found myself stopping frequently to replenish fluids and catch a breath.

At a Casey’s station in Smith Center, KS I tanked up and was swigging a cold bottle of Gatorade when a big (BIG) man, about my age, exited the store and rummaged through his trunk. He approached me with something in his hand and without preamble complimented my bike and launched into an involved story about his riding days, his career as a long haul trucker, the work he does part time, and his disdain for GPS gadgets. I could tell he’s told this tale before, and was so interesting I could only hold my peace. Actually, he didn’t pause long to get a word in. I did mention he was big, with a full scruffy beard and, a worn ball cap and so tall he towered over me. I felt it right to be polite and give him his say.

When he wound down, stuck out his hand to introduce himself as Bear, though it wasn’t his real name but he’d always been called Bear by everybody so that’s his name. I took that brief pause to interject my name and say I was delighted to meet him.

Well, he put out his other hand and showed me some bumper stickers and said he’d be delighted to give them to me, though I’d only need one but could give them to my friends if I had any.

Seems he supplies these for an annual rally and buys some more for occasions like this.

Bear was interested in why a Pennsy rider was riding through town and when he discovered I was heading home from Colorado he reminisced on his days hauling specialized steel pipe to the east coast. I couldn’t help but be interested in this man’s story. He was really quite endearing and I liked him very much.

He went back to his car to bring back a road atlas that was well worn and well marked. He convinced me that since I was headed east on US 36, I should take a side trip up KS 281 through Lebanon to see the geographical center of the lower 48 states. He showed me the route on his map and circled it for me, twice. I couldn’t miss it, he said. (Oh, boy). He parted ways with the same intensity. I nearly lost my hand as we shook, said he was glad to make my acquaintance and roared off on his next errand. I was left nearly speechless by the encounter but really glad we met. I counted my fingers and mounted up to go see this wonder.

It was right where Bear said it was. North through Lebanon, KS a road sign proudly proclaimed the geographical center of the contiguous 48 states is in a small park lovingly created by the good people of Lebanon with a monument, a picnic gazebo, and even a chapel proclaiming this is the Heartland of America. It’s set on a hill surrounded by huge farms. I had the place to myself , and though hot there was a nice breeze rippling through the trees and grasses that surrounded it.

The monument was built in April 1940 with data from the US Coast and Geodetic Survey, which now falls under NOAA. A common image is this is the spot, if you could support it on your finger, the entire lower 48 would balance perfectly. I thought it striking that this peaceful place is set in such a pastoral location, with farm roads leading off into the distance to so many industrious places. I really enjoyed it.

Leaving Lebanon, I rejoined US 36 and entered Missouri and took shelter in St Joseph, a city of about 72,000 people in the east bank of the Missouri River. After a shower and a change I went down to a happy hour in the lobby with surprisingly good food. There I met Dave and Debbie from Chillicothe, IL who rode in on a big Indian Motorcycle. All I had to do was compliment their ride and they graciously invited me to join them. They had a mishap on their bike: thankfully no serious injuries but their steed suffered some damage. We commiserated for a bit, then turned to happier topics. Dave and Debbie are co-owners of a monument company making markers and headstones. They do it all, from acquiring and transporting raw stone to finished polishing and lettering to installation. They are friendly and open and smart, and curious about the people. I found myself making up for lost opportunities to be involved in conversation. We spent a really nice evening just getting to know each other. I’m so glad we met.

Thence to bed.

Today was a shorter day, though it was still very hot. And humid. Only about 200 miles but blisteringly hot. And humid. Lots of stops for breaks and fuel. But nothing remarkable except for the pleasure of the ride to Hannibal, MO. We talked about Hannibal as we rode through a month ago. (Has it really been a month?)

After checking in to my lodgings, I headed to the Mark Twin Diner and their Hand-Maid sandwiches. A stroll along the bank and back to the hotel and the keyboard.

Tomorrow is a very long day, about 370 miles to Muncie, IN. The heat should be a little more intense so I’ll be taking the interstate (sigh) and lots of stops. I figure 8-9 hours over all. I’ll let you know how it turns out.

So for now, to bed. Be well.