Wandering Retirees

We set off from Dildo (stop snickering!) this morning headed toward Bonavista on the northern tip of the peninsula that bears that name. While the ride was pretty for the most part, it was the destination that was more important today. Our route included the Trans Canada Highway (TCH) through Clarenville to Rt 230 north. This was an inland route that got quite warm, into the high-80’s for goodness sake! About lunch time we crested a hill coming into Port Rexton and we met a delicious sea breeze that cooled us wonderfully. It was like coming into air conditioning but without the equipment.

Shortly thereafter we pulled into a little restaurant called “The Two Whales”, which specializes in vegetarian food. We didn’t know that coming in, but are glad we did. They grow their own food as a part of a co-op so everything is very fresh and good. (They have vegan options, too). We eat a lot of meatless meals at home so this was in our wheelhouse. We can recommend it!

Suitably refreshed, we continued up Rt 230 to Bonavista Lighthouse, at the northern tip of the peninsula. It did not disappoint. The strata of rock were thrust up by titanic tectonic collision millions of years ago to create towering bluffs that have partially eroded away. The result is a craggy coastline with protected harbors and also any number of dangerous shoals. Hence the lighthouse, which guided and warned mariners from 1843 to 1962. It has been replaced by an automated light. Newfoundland and Labrador Parks Commission has done a nice job of preserving the site for the public.

We took a walk out on a promontory overlooking the bay to the west and just luxuriated in the austere beauty all around. While we have pictures, we especially loved sitting, listening quietly while the wind, surf and bird calls washed over us.

As we were getting ready to leave, we met Daniel, who grew up in Bonavista but moved away in the late 60’s. Like many (most?) of us, he never really appreciated what he had here growing up. Coming home from Toronto to visit family, he now sees how special his home was. We had a great time getting to know him a little and hear a few select stories.

One story spoke to his having grown up in a very small town. When Connie and I mentioned we were headed next to Ellison to catch sight of some Puffins, he laughed and said that he only dated girls from Elliston, or Catalina, or Port Rexton, or other towns not Bonavista. That’s curious. It seems that since everyone knows everything about everybody from infancy forward, the only chance one had to start fresh in a relationship is to head out of town. It never would have occurred to me until now, but this cultural practice makes a kind of sense, especially when it comes to preserving one’s reputation.

We rode to Elliston in search of the world famous Puffins. Fun looking birds, though we didn’t see any. Gulls there were a plenty, and cormorants, too. But no puffins today. We’re hoping we may be more fortunate in the days ahead.

It was another fun day, but now to bed. Have a good night.