Wandering Retirees

We slept late today and rose to have some coffee and share the view of Halifax Harbour.

Halifax is the Capital and largest city of Nova Scotia with about 520,000 residents. It was founded in 1749 when Gen. Edward Cornwallis (yes, that one.) arrived with 13 transports and a naval vessel. His instructions were to secure the harbor and build the city, while defending it from the native population, the Mi’kmaq, who took umbrage that a foreign city was being built on their land in violation of a treaty with the English dating from 1724. Acadian and French settlers and traders were also quite unhappy and responded to the English with force. Cornwallis had four forts built, including Citadel Hill (nicely preserved), to defend British interests. The Brits won. The city prospered to become a center for fishing and commerce in the Atlantic Maritimes.

Halifax served as a forward base for the Royal Navy and Army during the American Revolution (1770’s to 1780’s), the Napoleanic Wars, 1803 to 1815 and the War of 1812. It also served as a refuge for Loyalists who fled after or even during American Revolution.

I’m interested because Halifax as the naval base was mentioned frequently in the Patrick O’Brien books about Captain Aubrey and Steven Maturin upon which “Master and Commander” was based. We visited the Maritime Museum with exhibits on the evolution of boats and ships over the centuries, a display of Titanic memorabilia, and a Chandlery, where ship’s masters and builders could acquire equipment and supplies essential to preparing a ship of sali for sea. The supplies on display included huge coils of rope for everything from string to 1” lines to trim sails to 2” cable for anchors. The were hand operated fog horns, pulleys and larger tackle for hoisting sails; marlin spikes for mending rope; sail cloth, you name it. Pretty important to have the right stuff when you’re thousands of miles from safe harbor.

We strolled on the shore path along the waterfront admiring the boats and ships, both powered and sail. We saw some interesting immersive art exhibits on the waterfront.

“Rise Again” invites you to look out over the harbour. It is a ritualistic climb in homage to past generations that worked hard and struggled at times, to forge this place. Rising out of the water, the form is proud and hopeful, as is our city.

At its apex is Tidal Beacon, an art installation that transforms with the changing environment. As the tides rise and fall, Tidal Beacon reacts, culminating with a beam that shines out over the harbour.

Much like Nova Scotians, Rise Again and Tidal Beacon are shaped by the sea. It remembers and honours our past while looking optimistically into the future. (Description taken from the website queensmarque.com/architecture/)

Except for some tourists the people we met are so friendly! And kind. We had great seafood at the Cable and Wharf on the water, and treated ourselves (twice!) to cones from Cows, next door. The ice cream was super good and came with unlikely name. I had Wowee Cowee, and Connie had Gooey Mooie. If it weren’t so good those words would never make it from my mouth. But it was good. So there you have it.

On the way back to our hotel we met Elizabeth. She entertained us for quite awhile as she worked to guard the entrance to a major construction site in front of our hotel. Her stories were funny, poignant and hopeful. She inspired us and wants to be remembered as “happy.” Thanks for the chat Elizabeth.

Tomorrow we head east to Baddeck on Cape Breton. Good riding and good weather ahead.

Have a great night!