Saturday, May 27th – Day 27 – Wandering Retirees

Cortez, CO and Mesa Verde National Park

We rode 290 miles from Kanab and arrived in Cortez, Co around 4 PM. A longish but beautiful day. More desert and more red rock. We rested a bit then rode to Mesa Verde Nat’l Park for a twilight tour of the Cliff Palace where Pueblo’s built a community in an over- hanging sandstone cliff. Amazing hike! We clambered down rough hewn steps and a ladder to get below the cliff and into a grotto where a thriving community built a home out of native rock and mortar. The people developed a sophisticated agricultural system primarily on the Mesa above that fed its people and allowed flourishing culture between about 950 and 1250 AD. Most of the building we saw was completed by around 1240. There is evidence of several distinct cultures that lived in and on Mesa Verde beginning as early as 5,000 BC. They were all tough, hard working and completely unafraid of heights. Wow! Can you imagine raising small children where your front porch suddenly drops off over 1,000 feet? DYFS would have conniptions. Everything from food and water to building supplies, had to be carried up and down steep rock walls using hand and footholds carved into the rock face. No wimpy ladders for you, Laddie! (Take a look at the pics. Just saying) And the construction was perfectly proportioned: corners remain absolutely square and walls perfectly vertical (plumbed) using only very basic tools. Chopping was accomplished with stone axes carefully made by hand; an 8 inch thick tree took about 300 strokes. Most structure required up to 100 lengths of lumber. There are dozens of structures divided into a total of 150 rooms. It’s remarkable how smart and ingenious so-called primitive people were. And the dry climate has helped preserve the abandoned dwellings for the better part of 1,000 years. Ultimately population density and several severe droughts force the inhabitants to move elsewhere to find arable land.
It was about a 20 mile ride to the park, and then another 22 miles back to the Cliff Palace over mountain roads with very tight curves and switchbacks. A little nerve wracking but very doable in daylight. The ride out of the park was a bit more interesting once darkness descended. No street lights and few caution signs. Hairpins are a LOT more interesting in the dark. 20 miles. We are the bomb. Mt. Washington, you are so much dust in our wake.

This visit is so meaningful because my folks took Mark, Mary Jane and me to this same place 50 years ago. We kids were small and completely unafraid and there were rock walls to climb. Looking back, I can only imagine what our mom was feeling. Speaking for myself, I don’t remember a lot about the visit back into 1966 other than fleeting snapshots in the memory bank. To return now closer to the other end of life fills me with love and thanksgiving for the life I really didn’t realize I had. (Tissues please.) Enough maudlininity.

Ok, now to some fun on our way here. At the junction of Rt. 89and US Rt. 160 that led us to Cortez, we stopped at a Shell station for a potty break. Upon returning to the bike from my foray to the necessary, I find a troupe of Chinese tourists surrounding the bike and applauding Connie. I was curious. (Understatement.) Turns out a group of 20 good folks from Hunan Province were disembarked from their Mercedes bus to find relief. They were parked right next to our bike. When I came out they were applauding my Queen for her courage and whatever on her trek across this great country on this flimsy steed. Not wanting to interrupt the plaudits to Her Majesty, I snapped a picture. (It may be included in the portfolio.) Modesty prevented me from interfering, but these sagacious easterners divined I was associated with the Queen’s quest. So we all simultaneously began snapping pictures of each other. It was very confusing.

Using the services of the translator from the group, we all shared where we were from and where we were headed. Connie, as Queen Regnant, (look it up), was given highest prestige, as was proper. Pictures were proposed and taken all around. (Sometimes stereotypes are spot on.) Turns out the translator had worked in Rochester, NY for 8 years and was familiar with American ways. Her name was Xi Xian Jiu and she was delighted to say she had worked in Rochester, NY during the 90’s and vacationed at her American boss’ cabin at Lake George in the beautiful Adirondack Mountains. She was so happy to meet Americans who were glad to meet her on this trip. She remembers her stay in the US with fondness and pride. Anyway, we had the most touching and hilarious photo-op in recent history. We enjoyed it immensely. And we are so proud that folks from foreign lands are happy to invest heavily in visiting our wonderful country.

Well enough for today. An adult beverage is singing its siren song and I must partake. Be well. And blessings.