Wandering Retirees

Kanab, Grand Staircase Escalante, Lake Powel, Glen Canyon Dam, Horseshoe Bend, Colorado River, Vermillion Cliffs

Had a wonderful day exploring south of us. First on the tour was a Bureau of Land Management visitors center for the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument where we learned a lot about the region in a very short time. The Informational Ranger is retired military and now has his dream job. He was really pleased to point out a number of fossilized remains of dinosaurs and other ancient creatures found in the area from before 90 million years ago when the Colorado Plateau was a shallow ocean that divided North America. And detailed research by paleontologist and geologists has only just begun in earnest. A lot of good knowledge will be forthcoming. Amazing. 
Then off to Lake Powell and the Glen Canyon Dam, the second largest hydroelectric dam in the States. Although the level of the lake is relatively low after years of below average rainfall, it was a still a gorgeous deep blue from our perch at Wahweap overlook. The blue channel cut by the Colorado river is a stark contrast in this desert setting. Very striking.  

Then we had some fun trying to find some other sights around Page and got ourselves woefully turned around. About the time folks started getting jangly, we pulled into the first available lot to have our lunch. It was a Walmart of all places and we were nestled among a myriad of campers. Yes, Walmart. And yes, I got us lost. Pictures not included.

Once fed and equilibrium was restored, we wandered to the Horseshoe Bend, a 270 degree loop in the Colorado some miles below the dam. A half-mile hike from a parking lot leads you to the cliffs about 1,000 feet above the river. Rafting tours meander their way down this placid stretch the Colorado and I’m sure they were gawking at us as hundreds leaned over the cliff edges to gawk from above. Again, the power of moving water to cut so deeply through sandstone is amazing, even though it took a very long time.

Further south, we saw the Vermillion Cliffs, truly impressive escarpments of the most beautiful vibrant red stone. Yes, we have become very fond of stone. Who’d guess?

As we continued down river, we found an old homestead close to the road that was amazing. The cliffs are closer to the road and over the years huge chunks of rock have fallen, some the size of a cape cod house. The settlers, whoever they were, used overhangs in the fallen rock as roofs and built walls, storage areas, and even a fireplace with chimney around the covered ground to make a home. Makeshift barns were made the same way behind the primary structure using timbers, rocks and mortar. It didn’t appear to be close to any arable land or other means for making a living, yet the builders (a family, prospectors?) had the ingenuity and determination to use what they had available to build a life on that spot. Who were these folks? What brought them there? We are left to the workings of our imaginations.

We drove further south to Rt. 89A to head through the southern end of the monument and ultimately back to Kanab. We stopped at one scenic overlook and met a cheerful man named Matt. He and his wife were taking a break from their drive back home in Montana and were giving their huge dog, Fiona, a chance to do her business. Fiona is an 80 pound puppy who is half St. Bernard and half Full-sized poodle. Matt is a 70+ snowbird who winters in Arizona and summers about 60 miles north of Missoula, MT and a little south of Glacier Nat’l Park. He shared that he is a volunteer fireman up north and a volunteer with the local police department down south, and finds deep satisfaction in helping out. We had a wonderful time meeting him.

Our drive back to Kanab took us near the north entrance to Grand Canyon Nat’l Park, our destination tomorrow is the North Rim. As we climbed to nearly 8,000 feet, the desert terrain gave way to Ponderosa pines and rich undergrowth. Wonderfully cooler. And from the high altitude from the south, the Grand Staircase was a majestic vista that took our breath away. I wish I had the capacity to put what we saw and the emotions we felt on paper. Words fail me.

We’re back to base, fed, watered and ready to face another day. What a wonderful life.