As I’m writing, I can see the beautiful falls on the Androscoggin River that delineates the western boundary of Lewiston, ME, our destination for today.
It’s day five, we’re acclimating to life on the road. Today we reveled in the sunshine and the green forests, farms and lawns in northern Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine in the summer. We rode about 200 miles from Stowe, VT over pretty secondary roads. Our route took us on Rt 100 north to Rt 15 east, to US 2. We had to divert to I-93 south because the road was closed due to severe flooding a couple of weeks ago. We picked up State RT 116 East, to US 2 to State Rt 26 to SR 119 and in. (For those who want to follow us on the map.)
Lewiston was first settled by white folks in 1770 and is likely named for Job Lewis, a Boston merchant and financial backer of early settlers. The town grew to become a city in the 1860’s and, based on the river’s great power, its economy grew on the shoulders of Textiles. Like many cities in the north, textile manufacturing moved south causing a huge loss of manufacturing and jobs. The city’s website claims significant efforts to repurpose these now empty buildings. And it looks like Lewiston is working to create extensive parks and recreation facilities to make the city a more attractive place to live.
Tomorrow it’s on to Bar Harbor, Acadia National Park, Cadillac Mountain, and lobster! (Not necessarily in that order!)
Monday and Tuesday were full days and we didn’t have the ooomph to post. Actually, I need to own that; the missing ooomph was mine. I’m now hoping to make amends.
We left Joe and Laurie on Monday morning having had a great time with their wonderful hospitality. We laughed and recounted stories of Val and Bob, and their shenanigans. we thank them from the bottom of our hearts for being such good friends to us.
Hank and his brother Jeff
The ride north from Dingman’s Ferry started blisteringly hot (95 degrees). So long as we were moving it was okay. Crawling behind trash trucks was not so okay, as you can imagine. We followed US 209 north into NY, crossing the Hudson at Rhinebeck, and sauntered on to Chatham, NY. The area is largely rural with wide roadways that have sweeping curves and beautiful farms. We were blessed with sparse traffic and temps in the mid-80’s. Our destination was a pretty AirBnB in dense woods just south of Chatham. My brother, Jeff, and sister-in-law, Rosemary were waiting for us. The gab fest commenced.
Connie and Jeff’s wife Rosemary
The house was beautifully laid with wall to wall books. History, philosophy, psychology, art, literature, you name it. Winston Churchill’s history of the Second World War in 4 volumes, the definitive works of Michelangelo, DaVinci, Van Gogh, and Chagall, and so on and so forth. We all felt like we were in a candy store. Better yet, I imagined that basking in the presence of such scholarship made us a little smarter. (Imagination doesn’t cost much.)
We learned later that the former owner of this house was something of a recluse and a misanthrope who loved her great books for company.
The library even had a sliding ladder. What a cool house. Gaea. Sitting on a hill, this sculpture can be seen from the Taconic Parkway
After breakfast, professionally assembled by Jeff, we walked a short ways to a unique place, the Taconic Sculpture Park. The creator/artist was Roy Kanwit, a self described hippy who bought the land with his wife, Mary DeBay and created a mystical place akin to Grounds for Sculpture in Ewing, NJ. Using concrete and stones from the area, he lovingly fashioned large installations celebrating Mother Earth, ancient Titans, gods and goddesses and more. There is a 20 foot statue of Gaea that overlooks the valley below. And he built a 4 story house out of local rocks and cement with his own hands.
Home hand built by Roy Kanwit from stones in the fields on the propertyMary DeBay, wife of the artist, Roy Kanwit
Mr Kanwit and Mary DeBay kept this vision alive for 40 years. Roy died last fall, sadly. Mary, who graciously visited with us for nearly an hour, shared richly of her insights into the park and the legacy of her husband. We all feel richer for our time spent with her at the park.
Rosemary sitting on a throne sculpture with a whimsical dragon sculpture appearing to pose!
Later in the day we went into Chatham to enjoy a good meal. Jeff and I found an advertisement seeking wait staff. Jeff just may have the look they’re looking for.
Jeff practicing for his interview.
Today we climbed on the beast and rode about 225 miles (how the crow does not fly) to Stowe, VT. We’ve covered almost 500 miles so far. Tomorrow we’re headed to Lewiston, ME.
As always, Connie and I are tickled that you are reading this, hopefully with pleasure. It increases our enjoyment immeasurably.
Have a good night!
Hey Google! We wanted to go to the interstate. What’s this?
Lakeside with friends in Dingman’s Ferry PA. Water views will figure prominently on this trip.
At long last we’re off on our ride through New England, Nova Scotia and Newfoundland. Our planning began months ago and has provided hours and hours (and days) of entertainment as we project our needs and wants on the road. That involved planning routes to sights we want to see, engaging lodging and making reservations for ferries and even some national parks.
Who would have thought that you would need reservations in America and Canada?! Go figure.Nevertheless, Connie claims she had fun finalizing our arrangements and can place the spreadsheets in evidence. My job of identifying some routes and getting the bike in shape was easy. Now I just have to ride. 😉
We hung a map that included Nova Scotia and Newfoundland in our upstairs hallway just on the way to the bathroom for inspiration. I noticed I was inspired a lot.
We pulled out around 10 this morning to make our way north in New Jersey principally along Rt 29, Rt 627 north along the Delaware from Milford NJ to Phillipsburg, and County Rt 519 toward Dingmans Ferry, PA.
There was some fun stuff along the way here. When we left Morrisville, it was already nearly 95 degrees and we’re not yet in prime biking shape. We were very glad to arrive in the Poconos where it’s about 10 degrees cooler. We can also look forward to some more very hot days before getting to Canada where 70-80 degrees will be the norm. (We think and hope).
Blairstown Diner
When we needed a break, we stopped at the Blairstown Diner, (in Blairstown NJ) which is still famous as a setting for Friday the 13th! It was at this diner the head counselor sat with a cup of coffee and peach pie while his charges were being unalived at the campground. So we had a cup of coffee and a slice of pie amid dozens of hockey masks and posters of terrified kids. Delightful.
Memorabilia by the register
We subsequently ran into a little difficulty when the mapping app we were using led us into a number of dead ends, especially in and around Delaware Gap Nat’l Recreation Area. Very pretty roads but many seemed to go nowhere we wanted to go. At one dead end, we had to make a U-turn on a gravel stretch and we fell at slow speed. I didn’t do the things I know to do on a tight turn, and worse, I looked down. Since the body follows the head, that sealed the deal. We are both a little bruised but we picked the bike up and got on our way. The worst injury seems to be my ego. That’s survivable if embarrassing.
Our destination today is the home of Joe and Laurie, dear friends to Connie’s sister, Val and brother-in-law, Bob. They have become our friends, too. They have a lovely home on a lake in the Poconos and generously welcomed us into their home. The setting is beautiful and so very peaceful. Add in great company and the mishaps of the road don’t hurt so much. We are grateful.
Tomorrow we’re planning to continue north to Chatham, NY and spend a couple of days with my brother Jeff and Rosemary.
On July 14th, Hank and I are heading out on what we hope to be an intoxicating journey through New England to the breezy Canadian Islands of Newfoundland and Nova Scotia. Both islands are rich in maritime history, with charming villages scattered along picturesque coastlines and beautiful mountains and cliffs.
In Newfoundland, we plan to visit the infamous Gander International Airport , where residents of Gander welcomed 38 international flights, sheltering and feeding nearly 6,700 evacuees from around the globe when flights were grounded after 9/11. On Nova Scotia, we’ll pay our respects at the memorials and graves of those who perished on the Titanic and about the how the people of Nova Scotia helped survivors.
To top it off, we’ll enjoy of riding our bike Shiney along thousands of miles of winding roads through New England and Canada, living in the moment on our “happy place.”