Wandering Retirees

Bryce Canyon today. In my view, this is the most wondrous sight yet. I don’t have words to describe the wonder of this Park. The weather was a little cool, but much more comfortable than earlier days. We drove about 2 hours to the park entrance and took a shuttle up to the farthest and highest (8300’) overlook, Bryce Point. I got to see “my” hoodoos at last. These are wondrous columns of rock that have been formed by erosion over millions of years. The process of creation continues with each rain storm, snow melt and even strong winds. In an area called the “Amphitheater”, there are thousands of hoodoos. (Love that word!) Didn’t see any resemblance to people I know, I’m sorry to say. Though the ordered ranks reminded me of pictures of the Terracotta Army depicting the armies of China’s first emperor, or maybe a stuffy upper crust audience at Carnegie Hall. (There is about that much motion.)  

We visited both Sunset and Sunrise Points for more perspectives that we found inspiring. Connie and I are planning to return later this coming week to do a little hiking into the Canyon. For today, we contented ourselves with the view from the top.

A couple of suggestions. First, get here. To Bryce, to Zion, to the Grand Canyon, all of it. Just get here. Second, the National Park System offers annual passes for a paltry $80, which gets a carload or a family into any Park for a year. Worth every penny, and helps support the upkeep and improvements needed in the parks. Normal cost is $30 per car. Third, if the park offers shuttles, take advantage. It makes a difference if you don’t have to fuss with your vehicle. And the cost is included with the pass.

Take a gander at the pics. We had several photographers, including Val and Pat. Beautiful. And better than words.

Tomorrow Val, Bob and Pat head home. Connie and I are heading to “Lost Wages” for a night on the town and some service on the bike. More tomorrow. Have a good week.

North Rim Grand Canyon National Park

Off today to the north rim of the Grand Canyon. (Amazing pics provided.) All five of us piled in Bob and Val’s rental to make the 2-hour drive from Kanab. (You may have noticed we haven’t ridden the bike very much these past few days.) 
We arrived at the Park’s Visitor Center and got oriented fairly quickly. It was very cool, so layers were welcome. Pat was especially well prepared with fleece and parkas (yes, plural) and was so excited to get going with camera in hand. This was a lifetime dream that was coming true! The Park Rangers and other employees were kind and considerate as we made our way to the main lodge. And the splendor of that first view at over 8200 feet. Have I mentioned that the Canyon is a nautical mile deep, and 18 miles wide? The Bright Angel Trail that Connie and I walked to see the sunrise from the South Rim was visible as it traced its way toward the North Rim. So small from our vantage over 2,000 feet higher from the south. It gave Connie and me the determination to walk it together on our next visit. But I digress.

The lodge is magnificent, comfortable and provides a wonderful panorama, from the far rim nearly 20 miles away, to the brilliant outcropping and ledges within yards of where we stood. We all loved the spot. We think Pat wants to buy it and move in. It is less crowded and makes for a more intimate setting.

Most of us made our way to the Bright Angel Overlook that feels like an eagle’s aerie above sheer cliffs. The trail is short and often steep, and there are few guard rails to give one confidence. We took our lovely time, thank you. So worth the trip. The word of the day is majestic. Some youngsters passed us on their mountain jogs along the narrow path. Show-offs. But I digress. Again.

The weather warmed some, so we shed our outer layers. Some of us more than others. Later in the afternoon, we headed to an overlook not far away by car, called Point Imperial, which is the highest point in the Park at 8,803 feet and provides a 270 degree view of the Painted Desert to the north through the majority of the eastern arm of the Canyon. The instrument of the canyon’s creation, the Colorado River, isn’t directly visible from that spot. But you can see it’s impressive work. There’s a spire of white stone that thrusts up from a mesa directly in front of us called Mt Hayden that kept snagging my eye. Pat found herself a strategic spot to perch and just soaked it all in. We all fell in love. You would too, if you find a way to visit.

It’s remarkable how many visitors from other countries come to our National Parks. We met folks from the Netherlands, Germany, Japan, China, Belgium, Italy, and so many more. What do they know that so many Americans don’t? Teddy Roosevelt and Congress knew what they were doing by creating the National Park System. I, for one, really want our grandchildren to be able to get out to enjoy this immensely important national resource. (Shameless political plug here.)

Majestic is the word of the day. Pat is over the moon. And we each carried our special mental pictures and impressions as we drove back. A real day of memories. We’re having the time of our lives.

Tomorrow, Bryce Canyon.

Xxxx

Kanab, Grand Staircase Escalante, Lake Powel, Glen Canyon Dam, Horseshoe Bend, Colorado River, Vermillion Cliffs

Had a wonderful day exploring south of us. First on the tour was a Bureau of Land Management visitors center for the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument where we learned a lot about the region in a very short time. The Informational Ranger is retired military and now has his dream job. He was really pleased to point out a number of fossilized remains of dinosaurs and other ancient creatures found in the area from before 90 million years ago when the Colorado Plateau was a shallow ocean that divided North America. And detailed research by paleontologist and geologists has only just begun in earnest. A lot of good knowledge will be forthcoming. Amazing. 
Then off to Lake Powell and the Glen Canyon Dam, the second largest hydroelectric dam in the States. Although the level of the lake is relatively low after years of below average rainfall, it was a still a gorgeous deep blue from our perch at Wahweap overlook. The blue channel cut by the Colorado river is a stark contrast in this desert setting. Very striking.  

Then we had some fun trying to find some other sights around Page and got ourselves woefully turned around. About the time folks started getting jangly, we pulled into the first available lot to have our lunch. It was a Walmart of all places and we were nestled among a myriad of campers. Yes, Walmart. And yes, I got us lost. Pictures not included.

Once fed and equilibrium was restored, we wandered to the Horseshoe Bend, a 270 degree loop in the Colorado some miles below the dam. A half-mile hike from a parking lot leads you to the cliffs about 1,000 feet above the river. Rafting tours meander their way down this placid stretch the Colorado and I’m sure they were gawking at us as hundreds leaned over the cliff edges to gawk from above. Again, the power of moving water to cut so deeply through sandstone is amazing, even though it took a very long time.

Further south, we saw the Vermillion Cliffs, truly impressive escarpments of the most beautiful vibrant red stone. Yes, we have become very fond of stone. Who’d guess?

As we continued down river, we found an old homestead close to the road that was amazing. The cliffs are closer to the road and over the years huge chunks of rock have fallen, some the size of a cape cod house. The settlers, whoever they were, used overhangs in the fallen rock as roofs and built walls, storage areas, and even a fireplace with chimney around the covered ground to make a home. Makeshift barns were made the same way behind the primary structure using timbers, rocks and mortar. It didn’t appear to be close to any arable land or other means for making a living, yet the builders (a family, prospectors?) had the ingenuity and determination to use what they had available to build a life on that spot. Who were these folks? What brought them there? We are left to the workings of our imaginations.

We drove further south to Rt. 89A to head through the southern end of the monument and ultimately back to Kanab. We stopped at one scenic overlook and met a cheerful man named Matt. He and his wife were taking a break from their drive back home in Montana and were giving their huge dog, Fiona, a chance to do her business. Fiona is an 80 pound puppy who is half St. Bernard and half Full-sized poodle. Matt is a 70+ snowbird who winters in Arizona and summers about 60 miles north of Missoula, MT and a little south of Glacier Nat’l Park. He shared that he is a volunteer fireman up north and a volunteer with the local police department down south, and finds deep satisfaction in helping out. We had a wonderful time meeting him.

Our drive back to Kanab took us near the north entrance to Grand Canyon Nat’l Park, our destination tomorrow is the North Rim. As we climbed to nearly 8,000 feet, the desert terrain gave way to Ponderosa pines and rich undergrowth. Wonderfully cooler. And from the high altitude from the south, the Grand Staircase was a majestic vista that took our breath away. I wish I had the capacity to put what we saw and the emotions we felt on paper. Words fail me.

We’re back to base, fed, watered and ready to face another day. What a wonderful life.

Zion National Park

We went to Zion Nat’l Park today and took the Zion shuttle tour up the Canyon over the course of Six hours. We ran out of superlatives pretty quickly. “Breath taking”, “Majestic”, and simply, “Wow” hold pride of place. We spent time gawking at the Grotto, Weeping Rock and especially the Temple of Sinawava stations, blown away by the beauty of the sheer canyon walls, the plant life hanging tenaciously to every crevice and crack, and the Virgin River that has cut its way through millions of years of sedimentary rock to create this brilliant record of nature’s power over the earth. The Temple of Sinawava is an amphitheater 3,000 feet deep delineated by sheer cavern walls close to the top of the Canyon. “Sinawava” is the Paiute name of one of a god of creation. It’s easy to see how this place could inspire such awe.  

It’s possible to hike to the very top of the canyon by treading through the river itself as it enters a narrow defile. We did not take the challenge, not least because the air temp was 47 degrees, and the water was even cooler. We left such feats to younger, more intrepid explorers.

The road into the park has two significant tunnels, the longest being over a mile long. They were completed in 1930 with a lot of work performed by the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps), a Depression Era public works program. (Extra credit if you can describe the program and name the president in office.) The tunnel has a number of ‘windows’ that provide quick, beautiful panoramas of the Canyon – she posted one here. At the end of the tour we were tired but very full in our hearts and minds.

On the way home we stopped at the Iron Horse pub/saloon in Kanab. The burgers were humongous and very good. They have a little old west street display out front. We caught a pic of a couple of the more sketchy denizens for your illumination.

Tomorrow we head for Page, AZ and Lake Powell. Time for beauty rest, which I for one really need. (See accompanying illustrative photo.) Have a good night.

Kanab, Utah

Nothing happened today. It’s cold and rainy here in Kanab. Several destinations have rougher weather today. Bruce Canyon even had some snow.
 Besides which, Val, Bob and Pat had a 24 hour travel day yesterday.

Choosing comfort as the better part of valor, we stayed in, ate and napped. Decadent day! Tomorrow we’ll head back to Zion Nat Park for more splendor. More to come.

Zion National Park

 We woke to a beautiful day, a bit cool but very clear. To celebrate we hopped on the bike and headed north to Zion National Park, about 35 miles away. (North on US 89, then west on Utah Rt. 9) our goal was to hike a short “easy” trail not far into the park. The ride was easy and fun with lots of sweeping turns that are so pleasing.   

The trailhead is about 300 yards from a huge tunnel that connects the north and south ends. We parked along the side of the road and climbed out of our riding gear. (Takes a little practice and looks kind of funny, but necessary to keep from roasting.) And off we went. We found the trail was not really that easy, and belatedly discovered it is labeled as a moderately difficult climb. Steep stone steps start the path and we skirted some sharp drops, imposing stone overhangs (grottos?) and narrow ledges. We just took our time and it was so worth it! Connie has posted pics from the trail and the scenic overlook: majestic mountains, sheer rock faces, and monstrous rockfalls. But there is so much life that has found a way to take hold and thrive in this austere environment. Such beautiful, delicate flowers have found niches to take root. And chipmunks looking for a handout. (A no-no in the Parks.) Such a contrast between august majesty dating from 140 million years ago, and delicate but tenacious life. Wow.

Of course we started talking. There’s a pic of three men from Belgium (Antwerp) who are on a two week holiday. Stefan and Rafael (left and center) are headed to Vegas to contribute to the gaming economy, while Thomas (right) is renting a fast car to tool around the desert. He is also researching the possible import of American pickups to Belgium. They seem to be popular, especially F-150s.) We met Derek and Stephanie from California who are taking six months to explore the country. Much younger, their travel adventures are starting at the other end of adult life. They were riding today and we spent lots of time saying admiring things about our rides. Imagine that. And we met Bob, a great grandfather who moved to Kanab with his family in 1976. They were on vacation and found this area so beautiful that they up and moved from Norristown, PA. He made quite the sales pitch, but we love living in easy reach of kids, friends and the culture available on the East Coast. We’ll keep to our plan and return to our home.

As I said, we had an easy ride today. We’re sitting comfortably with our favorite adult beverages and awaiting the arrival of the Askew’s and Pat. Nice day drawing to a close.

Flora and Fauna of Zion

More friends … Derek from California, and the three amigos from Belgium.

Thanks for seeing us!

Kanab, UT

Slow news day. We slept late today and did almost nothing. Wonderful rest after all that intensely healthy hiking and whatnot. Have a pretty little cottage here in Kanab with a complete kitchen and lots of comfort. (Can share our source if you ask.)

Went to the store today. Filled up our cart. Didn’t remember we had to fit it all on the bike until we’d paid the bill. Just fit. Just. But we had the pleasure of making chili with our gleanings and it’s festering now. A home cooked meal is very appealing after so many days on the road. Seems a long time since Bill and Jane Hadley.

We did manage to get to the Kanab Visitors’ Center, run by the Bureau of Land Management, and got some wonderful background and advice on what to see from a woman named Cheyann. Got some help yesterday from a real, lanky, booted cowboy named Sky. Sometimes people match their setting perfectly. Yep. We are not in Jersey anymore. 😀 Beautiful country.

Tomorrow evening Connie’s sister, Val, husband Bob, and mother, Pat, are flying in to join us. We will have some company with whom to share our discoveries for a few days. Looking forward to it.

Well, the chili is almost done, there’s a storm brewing that’s begging to be watched, so that’s all for tonight folks. Have a great night. Be well.

Grand Canyon National Park and Kanab, UT

Sadly, we left the Grand Canyon this morning but not without seeing another sunrise, this time from the rim at Mather’s Point. We were up at 4:00 to catch a shuttle to see the sun come up just before 5:30. It was very cold, but just as beautiful as yesterday’s sun up. And a lot less work. 😉 

 When we arrived at the Park on Friday, we were lucky to meet two men, Cole and Chris, who know the Park intimately. Chris is a guide for hiking and river tours. Yesterday, he hiked a group down 9 miles and then another up the same way.  We can’t even imagine the endurance that requires. They both shared some good suggestions with us.  Coupled with Ranger Rick’s ideas, we felt we got a lot out of our two day stay at the Grand Canyon.

Before the Grand Canyon was declared a National Park, it was governed by the Park Service which had close ties to a number of industries, including mining and tourism. For example, the Santa Fe Railroad ran a line into Grand Canyon Village and established hotels as a money making enterprise. The rail line still exists and has daily runs. We found it interesting, and think Bill Hadley might find it so, too. West of the village, approaching Hopi Point, there are remains of a copper mine started around the turn of the last century, and of a uranium mine that operated from the late ‘40s to the late ‘60s. Unfortunately, that area remains contaminated with high levels of chemical and radioactive residues. It is fenced off until money can be made available. Frankly, we find the sight and pollution a scar that should not be. Clean up will depend on the coming federal budget years (Interior; National Park Service) since the owners cannot be made to pay. Something wrong there. But I digress. 

We had such a wonderful time over all. It is just impossible to get your mind around such a magnificent place. We are tired, but so happy to have come. We are also determined to return and do some hiking down into the Canyon. We totally get the joy and wonder of those who have done so. (Thinking of Tim.)

We left the Park by the East Gate and headed north on US 89 through Page, AZ to Kanab, UT where we will stay for the next two weeks. We rode about 215 miles with sunshine but strong, gusty winds. Nothing dangerous, but tiring. Glad to be here with our feet up. We’ve covered almost 3,200 miles overall. Day excursions coming up.

The terrain we saw was fascinating and beautiful, though sometimes in a rather stark way. There is not a lot of water to be seen so agriculture is somewhat limited. But the geology is stunning. A lot of red rock in myriad forms. Amazingly, we are not yet tired of red rock.

Thank you so much for your interest and kind comments and support. You make our trip even more fun. Best to all.

Sunrise from Mather Point

Our route to Kanab, UT, where we are staying for two weeks.

Oh wow, oh wow.  No other words describe the Grand Canyon.  We had a great day.  Met people from all over the US and the world.  Hiked down Bright Angel Trail for 1.5 miles to see the sunrise.  Then this evening hiked the East Rim Trail for several miles to see the sunset.  What a great day.  We are both a bit sore and tired, but content.  Hope you enjoy the photos.  

Sunrise at the Grand Canyon.  

More to follow later…