We’ve be busy motoring about the last two days. Yesterday, we had very spotty internet service in the Beartooth Mountains. Today, we traveled through both Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks. We are beat.
Friends, we promise to catch up on our posts tomorrow.
Have a great night.
Another happy day on the road. Starting in Casper, we passed 3,000 miles today and wound up in Powell, WY for the evening. On the way out of town at 8:00, we rode by the city rail station and have the answer you and the rest of the free world has been clamoring for … wait for it … Casper, Wyoming has been served by the Burlington Line, which connected with the old Union Pacific and a number of older western rails. If you knew this, award yourself $500 in Monopoly money right away. Knowledge has its rewards! Also on the way out town, we passed a giant eagle sculpture that was beautifully done. Beneath the statue was a placard dedicated to Kelly Timberman, who in 2004 won the title of World Champion Bareback Rider. He is still a successful rodeo rider on the professional circuits.
Coming north on US 20/26, we processed (in a stately manner, of course!) through some beautiful country, including the narrow Wind River gorge that took us down several thousand feet in elevation over about 25 miles. The road and rail line descended on opposite side of the river, and both road beds passed through tunnels cut through living rock. It was fun!
Several lovely Wyoming towns including, Shoshoni, a town of 652 near the Boysen Reservoir where US 20 splits from US 26; then Thermopolis, (“Hot City”), a town of about 3,000 folks that contains Hot Springs State Park with thermal baths and a lovely range with a herd of bison. We met a lovely couple from Winnipeg who appeared to be on their honeymoon and were loving the Wyoming countryside. They also helped us get “unlost”from among the bison.
We’d also met Jay, an engineer from near New Haven, CT who was riding his new BMW motorcycle home from a dealer near Yellowstone. We later rode by his parked bike outside the thermal baths. They are quite luxurious, we are told, and he clearly wanted to enjoy them before continuing on his way.
Our next route, WY 120 took us toward Yellowstone and through the town of Meeteetse, population 352 and then on to Cody, home to several museums dedicated to Wild Bill Cody of western frontier fame. Racing along Alt. US 14, we beat several big storms to make it safely to our lodgings. We even had time to pick up some supper (salad kit plus some protein) and adult beverage to make the evening comfortable.
We found the countryside breathtaking and the people we’ve met are so generous and welcoming. We are so enjoying our trip through this state.
We reached a milestone today, passing 3,000 miles on the trip. Our backsides are now road conditioned and we can go for extended periods without whining or complaint. We’re so proud.
Tomorrow, we’re headed to repeat a ride we so loved on our last trip: the Beartooth Highway on US 212 that starts (for us) in northwest Wyoming and reaches 68 miles into northeast Montana and the entrance to Yellowstone National Park. The road cuts through the Beartooth Mountain range of the Rockies and reaches 11,000 feet at the pass. We’re told the road is clear of snow and open for riding.
Our destination tomorrow will be Cooke City, MT where, unfortunately, there will be no digital service. So our next update probably won’t be until we reach Victor, ID on Monday.
Until then, thanks for keeping us company on our trip. Be well!
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Casper
Leaving Casper and our view for a long long time
Wind River Canyon. Oh wow.
We found ourselves lost in a park
Scene changes on the way in and our of Cody and running from the storms
On what started as a beautiful travel day, we rode 268 miles from Estes Park, CO to Casper, Wyoming. We had great weather as we left Colorado on Rte. 34 toward Ft. Collins, winding through gorgeous canyons and gorges. Lots of twisties and elevation changes to make the ride exciting, if a bit slow. North of Ft. Collins, the road opened up on US Rte. 287 toward Laramie, Wyoming, home to the University of Wyoming. The name Laramie encourages romantic images of old Westerns from long ago. (I’m thinking of Shane in particular.). Our route took us through Medicine Bow, home to 267 souls and named after the Medicine Bow River. It boasts the Virginian Hotel, setting for the TV show that starred James Drury. It was lunchtime so we stopped in. The hotel was built in 1911 and is beautifully maintained. The proprietors make the most of the connection to the TV show and the book, The Virginian, by Owen Wister (copies available at the restaurant counter, of course). And the food is excellent!
We headed up WY Rte 487 through some pretty if underpopulated land. We passed maybe 8 cars in an hour, though there were a fair number of cattle out to graze. The land feels very open with rolling hills and gullies, and even some buttes to add variety. What we noticed was the immense sky that can make you feel so very small. The land we passed through was beautiful and seemed to go on forever.
We arrived at last in Casper, second largest city in Wyoming with 55,000 people and checked into our motel. Tomorrow we head toward Powell, WY in the northwest corner of the state.
BTW – what was the principal railroad that has served Casper? Someone has to know. 😀
That’s all, folks!
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The landscape changed quickly as we left Rocky Mountain National Park
Wyoming landscape is just entrancing even though the roads can be quite straight.
The Virginian Hotel and Cafe
Today was an easy, low key day. We slept late (a leisurely 8:30) after watching Game 7 of the Stanley Cup Finals last night and lounged some, did some laundry, took a short jaunt through Devils Gulch and lounged some more. Our excuse is that we need to rest up for some strenuous days immediately ahead. Truth is, we also just felt like a break. And then there’s the hot tub.
Connie has some nice shots of our ride through an arid area carved from volcanic rock ejected some 40 million years ago. No snow today because we weren’t high enough, but lovely streams and a number of obliging elk who stepped forward to promote the Nat’l Park. Our ride lasted just 45 miles, which brings us to 2,700 miles overall!
A note about our hosts. Tom and Janet are the proprietors of this airBnB and they are so kind and obliging. They have made us feel like family and we are so fortunate to have met them. If you ever plan to visit Estes Park, CO and Rocky Mountain National Park, give us a shout and we’ll gladly share their contact information.
That’s about all for today. On the road for Casper, Wyoming tomorrow. For Rail Baron players, which railroad serves Casper? Double points if you don’t look. 😀
Have a great night!
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Our short cruise through RMCP on our way to Devil’s Gulch this for morning.
Devil’s Gulch
Why we ride! Twisties!
How sweet!
A last evening view from our Air BnB
Today was all about Rocky Mountain National Park. It was established in 1915 by act of Congress due, in large part, to the advocacy of Enos Mills, a naturist and guide; and Mary King Sherman, an active resident of Estes Park, CO. Any number of companies and commercial concerns wanted the park to be designated a National Forest, under the administration of the US Forestry Service, which would allow mining and liberal logging for profit. The National Park designation, however, preserves the land in perpetuity so that future generations will have access to enjoy and learn in these pristine lands.
Native Americans were here long before all others. There have been some finds of ancient tools, pottery and rock construction that point to their early presence, as long as 10,000 or more years ago. More recently the Ute, Cheyenne and Arapaho people hunted seasonally here. Their movements may have worn the trail now known as the Trail Ridge Road (TRR), a stunningly impressive road that traverses the park roughly from east to west.
The TRR is often steep, sharply curved and climbs through distinctive kinds of terrain: from lush, wet forested land below 9,000 feet, to snowy land with spruce and fir trees up to 11,400 feet, to frozen tundra above the tree line up to 14,000 feet. The road climbs to just over 12,000 feet, but you really get the feel for the differences in each type of land.
The going is slow and careful all along the 2-lane Trail Ridge Road, which explains why we covered only 85 miles in a over 5 hours. Seriously. Yet we wish it had taken us longer because there is so much there. There are plenty of turnouts and scenic overlooks where you can get off your seat and see the earth in its glory. At one overlook, for example, we were able to see a range of the Rockies called the Never Summer Range bout 20 miles away, and the Rockies that extend into Wyoming 35 miles north, all of which is true wilderness.
We saw some elk soon after arriving in the park – truly impressive animals who are bigger than you might imagine. Then there were the marmots, essentially large ground dwelling squirrels who inhabit the tundra above 11,400 feet. Relatives of groundhogs, they do all their active business in the 4 months of relative warmth from June to September, then hibernate the other 8 months because, frankly, it is brutally cold up there. While they’re out and about, they are foraging like crazy, and reproducing of course, and totally unconcerned about humans or much of anything else. Very cute, they are.
Just a note: the road can seem a little hairy at times. There are switchbacks and other tight corners, and sometimes there are no guardrails along the way. But a reasonable speed (slow!) and full attention will get you through in good shape. What I’m saying is that it’s not really difficult driving, and the experience is fully worth it. Don’t be afraid if you ever have the chance.
That’s all for tonight. More tomorrow.
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Well Hello!
The Tundra and Yellow Bellied Marmots on Trail Ridge Road
Looking down at the tree line from the tundra.
Beautiful vistas. Way out in the distance is the Never Summer mountain range.
A short walk into some wetlands to finish our day.
Day 11 – June 11th
Another wonderful day with planed routes and wrong turns. Turned out wonderfully! We even have pictures to prove it.
We left Dillon this morning on US Rt. 6 heading east toward Loveland Pass. At 11,990’ and all kinds of wind it makes a great stop. Add that it was less than 45F and it was a very special occasion. Remember that we wear good protective gear and lots that is warm underneath. Still stopping for a selfie was quite invigorating! When I climbed to the top of the viewing area and was soundly chilled and buffeted. Worth it though.
Now, you might think me a bit mean, but it sure is fun watching folks dressed in shorts and sandals park, run to the official marker for a selfie and then scamper back to the warmth of their car. I’m not sure, but some land speed records were broken this morning. I could swear one couple made 40 yards to the official sign, took 3 pics and were back in about 18 seconds. Amazing athleticism! 😀
I am glad to learn that part of US Rt. 6 is one of the country’s 10 most dangerous roads – after we were down the other side. We just thought it was beautiful and fun. On the way up we stopped with other folks to watch a flock of mountain goats take up the entire roadway. When they left the road, they moved so fast up the slope! Their reputation for speed and sure footedness is justified.
We made our way to Rt. 72 and the Peak-to-Peak Scenic Byway toward Estes Park and Rocky Mountain National Park. Just more stunning landscape and fun riding.
I mentioned wrong turns. Well we had a few. Took a wrong turn in Nederland and wound up at a fabulous sandwich shop called the New Moon Bakery and Café. The food was awesome, and there was no real reason we should have found it, except we took the right wrong turn. The beauty of vacation.
For tonight and the next two we are staying in a cute little cabin on the edge of the National Park. It’s called Aspenhaven and owned by Tom and Janet who are as welcoming as any two persons could be. (Thanks!). We look forward to a nice night. Til tomorrow, have a good night, friends.
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Loveland
Peak to Peak Scenic Byway
The view from our Air BnB for the next few days.
Day 10 – June 10th
What a great day! We rode 265 miles in 8 hours and saw the highest paved mountain pass in America, hummingbirds, a Dutch couple riding a Harley on vacation, 8-foot snow packs, and folks in sandals walking hip deep in snow who claim it “felt great!”. Seriously. Where to start?
We’ll start with a wrong turn down a road headed the north when we wanted to ride south toward Independence Pass. (That was a consequence of the driver error/day dreaming). Our carefully laid plans blew up and Connie came to the rescue with a series of delightful reroutes that took us away from the usual path. I can’t exactly say where we were, but we wound up in backwoods camp land with cabins on lots that are clearly a slice of heaven to some lucky folks. And our course took us by a memorial to the 990 soldiers of the US Army’s 10th Mountain Division who lost their lives while fighting in World War II, on Kiska in Alaska’s Aleutian Island chain, and the mountainous Apennines of Italy. The memorial is aptly located at the Tennessee Pass (10,400 feet) on the Continental Divide.
Our impromptu route brought us to CO Rte 82 and the path to Independence Pass. The roads are pretty good considering that they are subject to frequent rock falls and avalanches, though the speed limit is fairly low. Vehicles longer than 35’ are not allowed above a certain point because of tight switchbacks and narrow road way. The fines begin at $500 for trying to evade that restriction. (We have a video that might make this understandable.) We had such a great time climbing to the top with just a few adrenaline moments, and stopped to admire the sight. There were lots of sightseers in every kind of vehicle and, yes, lots of bikes.
We were so happy to meet Theo and Julanda (not totally sure of the spelling, I’m sorry to say) from the Netherlands, who were riding a big Harley out of Denver. They were so enthusiastic about the friendliness and kindness they’ve received everywhere on their 3 week vacation. Of course Theo and I talked bikes and he waxed ecstatic about the many Harley’s he has owned over the years. His favorite rides close to home are centered on the northern Rhein River region. We’d love to ride with both of them some day. (Another bucket list item!)
While stopped, we saw all kinds of people doing everything from sinking to the hip in snow to cross country skiers to simple gawking at the majestic spectacle all around. The sun was out, the air was warm (relatively – almost 60*) and the view was beyond belief. Independence Pass tops out at 12,095 feet, yet the mountain tops towering above emphasize a feeling of being so small. We’re also glad we’ve had several days to acclimate to thin air at high altitude. Just amazing.
On the road to the pass, we stopped at a quaint general store and lodge that sported hummingbird feeders in front. Of course we had to try to get a shot, and out effort is posted here.
On our return ride to Dillon, we rode through all kinds of terrain, from green wetland watered by abundant snow melt, through semi arid land along I-70, and back to cool alpine environs around Breckinridge and Dillon. A great mix and a great ride. We crawled off the bike around 5:30 Mountain Time and proceeded to get a shower, then a beer and a brisket for supper. Bedtime is calling. And tomorrow is another good day. Be well.
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Pictures from our wrong turn
Independence Pass, from the beginning in Leadville.
Enamored with the hummingbirds.
If you look closely, you can see the roads we traveled at different altitudes.
The terrain was so varied today. Snow capped mountains, wide plateaus, steep valleys, river dug gorges and semi arid red rock mountains.
We had a fun ride from our Air BnB rental in Colorado Springs to Dillon, CO. Our trip lasted about 150 miles over some amazing roads. But first, we had to get packed up. Three nights in one spot is an open invitation for everything you own to run and hide in every nook and cranny. It all just scatters, you know? It took a little while to get it all together so we were a bit later getting away than we’d hoped. Packing was also a bit easier because we were wearing a high percentage of our clothes. Did I mention it was 34F this morning, with a pleasant breeze from the south? This is June, for pity’s sake. 😀
Our first hour or so was a long, slow climb beyond the first range of mountains through a low hanging cloud. Brrrr! Though our gear is very good and the seats heat up to a lovely toasty-ness, we stopped gratefully for cup of coffee at De Kerr’s Corner (café) at the junction of Routes 67 and 126 along the South Platte River. The place was filled with bikers and fishermen and serves wonderful food. The tackle shop next door is called “Ties & Lies” and they advertise fly fishing lessons. Wonderful! Connie got some really nice shots along that stretch of our journey.
We rode north on Rt. 126 and passed a huge tract of land, many square miles, that had been burned a couple of years ago. Amazing how capricious a fire can be: there are stands of stately firs still standing where the fire swept around leaving them untouched in swaths of ashes. It’s sad that so much land and many houses, were destroyed, yet there’s a lot of green new growth taking hold again. It’s wondrous how tenacious life is.
We stopped for lunch in South Park, CO. Yes, there is such a place though there is no sign of Kenny. By then the sun was out and we enjoyed a balmy 52F. We headed up State Rt. 9 toward Breckenridge and some really lovely roads surrounded by snow capped peaks and still frozen ponds. On the way we passed through Alma, CO, which lays claim to being the highest incorporated municipality in the US at 10,361 feet, and Hoosier Pass at 11,542 feet.
Then after some awesome twisties and fun stretches of road, we came to Breckenridge, which is best known as a ski resort town at 9,600 feet. It’s a very fancy, beautiful place and we noticed a lot of very chic people and posh boutiques on our way through town. It’s easy to see why folks would give a lot to come there to vacation or even live there full time.
Our destination, Dillon, is also a resort town but offers a somewhat less rarified atmosphere at 9,111 feet and somewhat more modest environs. It’s situated on the shores of the Dillon Reservoir and has it’s own glorious views. When we pulled into our Great Western motel, we saw dozens of small sail boats on the water. The sun was out and a brisk breeze was blowing beautiful beautiful craft over white capped water with snow capped mountains in the background. It was enchanting! However, the temperature was 50F and the water couldn’t be above 38F. If you’ve ever been on the water you know it was COLD out there! If you like to sail in this weather, you are your own kind of crazy. Makes riding a motorcycle look almost staid. Just saying.
At the end our day we are so glad to be enjoying life in each other’s company. Life is really good. Good night, friends.
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Cloudy, cold morning. And still beautiful.
More views of the Collegiate Peaks. Can’t get enough. Note the snow fences in the picture below. They are at least 12 ft high.
Dillon Lake Reservoir
Hi, friends. Sorry to say, there are two items of disappointing news. First, we were unable to climb Pikes Peak today. Turns out it was an uninviting place, with temps in the 30’s, light snow and 40+ mile gusts. Oh, well. We’ll have to try again one day. Second, a locally famous ribs joint was out of ribs tonight. Can you imagine? We had to settle for southern brisket and all the fixin’s. So sad. 😀
So instead of Pikes Peak, we contented ourselves with riding through the front range of the Rockies to the Arkansas River Valley, making a big loop covering over 240 miles of fabulous winding roads. The scenery is unparalleled and the company is the best.
Our route took us south to Cañon City (pronounced Canyon) and a cute little byway called Skyline Drive. It’s a narrow one-way drive on the bluff above the city with pretty views, dinosaur tracks, and fun twisties. Connie took a video that gives a feel for this pleasure. From there we rode north along US Rte 50 following the Arkansas River now in its full flood stage. We saw a ton of rafters riding the white water. We ran into a young man when we stoped for our sandwiches who just finished kayaking. He told us that the rafting business lasts only about 2 months because the spring runoff is usually gone by mid-July. Turns out this fellow is married to a woman from Scotia, NY where Mark and I are from. Small world, sometimes.
Later, we stopped for a soda at a roadside store in the small town of Cotopaxi. The soda was welcome in the heat (high 80’s) and the roaring Arkansas was mesmerizing. There we met a friendly fellow rider named Bob, who was out for the day on his big Harley. He hails from western Texas and has worked all over the country, including Atlantic City and NYC. We were captivated by his story of the time he spent in the north east – and he even expressed a liking for the region. He said that after the weather in West Texas, the jersey Shore and Cape May were a treat. Besides saying nice things about the East, he is genuinely a nice man and we enjoyed our meeting very much. He now lives and works out of Colorado Springs, and we hope to have occasion to meet him again one day. (Hey Bob, check out that County Road 1a)
Much of the rest of the day involved climbing (and descending) through passes ranging from 8,000 to 9,500 feet following toads with graceful though significant curves. We had to stop a number of times to take stock of the ranges before and behind. The American Rockies have 75 mountains higher than 14,000 feet, called “14ers”, by the cognoscenti. There are more than 800 peaks higher than 13,000 feet (13ers) as well. Faced with all that majesty, you have to stop and look. So we looked.
Of course, there’s a mundane side to all of this. We rested a few minutes in the dirt lot of a real estate office north of Cotopaxi that was selling fairly substantial lots. For example, one lot was described at 16,000 acres with an asking price of $8,500. That’s about 50 cents an acre with taxes of $500 per year. Of course the land is snow bound 6-7 months a year, but what a bargain! You’d have to build a home and you have to like snow and being alone, right? It may sound crazy to some, but there seem to be folks who are find this kind of challenge appealing. We are a diverse people after all.
Altogether we had a wonderful day together and no regrets, except maybe the ribs. Tomorrow, we push on north toward Dillon, CO.
Have a great night.
Skyline Drive, Cañon City, Co
The beautiful Royal Gorge
And the Collegiate Mountain Range. Oh wow.
Today has been a day of rest and recuperation, not to mention laundry and maintenance. Our grand foray was to the Garden of the Gods, a beautiful park owned by the city of Colorado Springs and only 10 minutes from where we’re staying. The park is set in the shadows of Cheyenne Mountain and Pikes Peak. Formerly home to the Ute tribe, the park features tall red sandstone towers that have been crafted by wind and water over millions of years. They are ideal for climbing, if you’re into that special brand of torture. We saw any number of folks inching their ways up narrow clefts and chimneys, and dangling out in space at the end of ropes as though it were exhilarating fun. Honestly, human crazy has no bounds. The good news for spectators and others is that all climbers have to be fully trained and equipped, and prove it, to be allowed to climb marked routes. We’re sure this cuts down on unfortunate mishaps that degrade the natural setting and alarm gentle passers-by.
The layout of the 480 acre park is perfect for folks of any ability to enjoy. There are shorter trails among the towers that are paved and gently sloped, and there are longer and more challenging trails that take you to areas that more fully reflect the natural habitat. Your choice with lots of staff to help should you want it.
We met John, a rising Junior at Univ. Texas at Austin, who loves his summer job. A history major, he is also much taken with the geology of this area. He was very kind (as just about everyone here has been) and shared some of what he knows about the park. We were sitting in the shadow of a formation called the Cathedral, festooned with climbers clambering up and rappelling down with every appearance of having fun. Immediately in front was a triple spire called the Three Graces, which resembled praying hands. John said he wished he was on the rock face himself; I was perfectly happy to be right where I was, thank you.
The naming of the park shows how differently folks look at the world. According to official park history, two surveyors set out in August, 1859 from Denver to lay out a site for a town to be called Colorado City. When they saw these beautiful sandstone formations, one, M.S. Beach, said it was a capital place for a beer garden once the area was built up. His partner, Rufus Cable, scoffed and said it was a place fit for a gathering of the gods. Personally, I could endorse both suggestions. I suppose it’s fitting (and inevitable?) that the more “poetic” vision prevailed.
The following may resonate for some family and fellow Rail Baron aficionados, so I hope you’ll all humor me. By the 1870’s, railroads were pushing their way through much of the western US. In 1871, we’re told, Gen. William Palmer, owner of the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad, established what is now Colorado Springs. He urged his friend, Charles Perkins, owner of the Burlington Railroad to extend his line to join Palmer’s at Colorado City and, while he’s at it, to purchase the land that is now the Garden of the Gods for his personal use. Mr. Perkins bought he land, but was so enamored with it, he wanted it kept pristine and free for the enjoyment of all. After his death in 1907, his children donated the site to the City with the proviso that “it shall remain free to the public, where no intoxicating liquors shall be manufactured, sold, or dispensed, where no building or structure shall be erected except those necessary to properly care for, protect, and maintain the area as a public park.” A long way from a beer hall. The upkeep of the park is funded from the city’s budget, concessions and donations from the public. An amazing business model, no?
We returned to our abode in early afternoon and promptly took a nap. Later the weather changed from sunny and 85 to hail, rain and thunder. That’s how the weather goes out here. We feel good about our choices today. Tomorrow, we’re off to ride up Pikes Peak. We are so excited!
Have a great night!
We were entertained by rock climbers during our visit.
Wandering Retirees 