Wandering Retirees

Today was an easy, low key day. We slept late (a leisurely 8:30) after watching Game 7 of the Stanley Cup Finals last night and lounged some, did some laundry, took a short jaunt through Devils Gulch and lounged some more. Our excuse is that we need to rest up for some strenuous days immediately ahead. Truth is, we also just felt like a break. And then there’s the hot tub.

Connie has some nice shots of our ride through an arid area carved from volcanic rock ejected some 40 million years ago. No snow today because we weren’t high enough, but lovely streams and a number of obliging elk who stepped forward to promote the Nat’l Park. Our ride lasted just 45 miles, which brings us to 2,700 miles overall!

A note about our hosts. Tom and Janet are the proprietors of this airBnB and they are so kind and obliging. They have made us feel like family and we are so fortunate to have met them. If you ever plan to visit Estes Park, CO and Rocky Mountain National Park, give us a shout and we’ll gladly share their contact information.

That’s about all for today. On the road for Casper, Wyoming tomorrow. For Rail Baron players, which railroad serves Casper? Double points if you don’t look. 😀

Have a great night!

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Our short cruise through RMCP on our way to Devil’s Gulch this for morning.

Devil’s Gulch

Why we ride! Twisties!

How sweet!

A last evening view from our Air BnB

Today was all about Rocky Mountain National Park. It was established in 1915 by act of Congress due, in large part, to the advocacy of Enos Mills, a naturist and guide; and Mary King Sherman, an active resident of Estes Park, CO. Any number of companies and commercial concerns wanted the park to be designated a National Forest, under the administration of the US Forestry Service, which would allow mining and liberal logging for profit. The National Park designation, however, preserves the land in perpetuity so that future generations will have access to enjoy and learn in these pristine lands.

Native Americans were here long before all others. There have been some finds of ancient tools, pottery and rock construction that point to their early presence, as long as 10,000 or more years ago. More recently the Ute, Cheyenne and Arapaho people hunted seasonally here. Their movements may have worn the trail now known as the Trail Ridge Road (TRR), a stunningly impressive road that traverses the park roughly from east to west.

The TRR is often steep, sharply curved and climbs through distinctive kinds of terrain: from lush, wet forested land below 9,000 feet, to snowy land with spruce and fir trees up to 11,400 feet, to frozen tundra above the tree line up to 14,000 feet. The road climbs to just over 12,000 feet, but you really get the feel for the differences in each type of land.

The going is slow and careful all along the 2-lane Trail Ridge Road, which explains why we covered only 85 miles in a over 5 hours. Seriously. Yet we wish it had taken us longer because there is so much there. There are plenty of turnouts and scenic overlooks where you can get off your seat and see the earth in its glory. At one overlook, for example, we were able to see a range of the Rockies called the Never Summer Range bout 20 miles away, and the Rockies that extend into Wyoming 35 miles north, all of which is true wilderness.

We saw some elk soon after arriving in the park – truly impressive animals who are bigger than you might imagine. Then there were the marmots, essentially large ground dwelling squirrels who inhabit the tundra above 11,400 feet. Relatives of groundhogs, they do all their active business in the 4 months of relative warmth from June to September, then hibernate the other 8 months because, frankly, it is brutally cold up there. While they’re out and about, they are foraging like crazy, and reproducing of course, and totally unconcerned about humans or much of anything else. Very cute, they are.

Just a note: the road can seem a little hairy at times. There are switchbacks and other tight corners, and sometimes there are no guardrails along the way. But a reasonable speed (slow!) and full attention will get you through in good shape. What I’m saying is that it’s not really difficult driving, and the experience is fully worth it. Don’t be afraid if you ever have the chance.

That’s all for tonight. More tomorrow.

—

Well Hello!

The Tundra and Yellow Bellied Marmots on Trail Ridge Road

Looking down at the tree line from the tundra.

Beautiful vistas. Way out in the distance is the Never Summer mountain range.

A short walk into some wetlands to finish our day.

Day 11 – June 11th

Another wonderful day with planed routes and wrong turns. Turned out wonderfully! We even have pictures to prove it.

We left Dillon this morning on US Rt. 6 heading east toward Loveland Pass. At 11,990’ and all kinds of wind it makes a great stop. Add that it was less than 45F and it was a very special occasion. Remember that we wear good protective gear and lots that is warm underneath. Still stopping for a selfie was quite invigorating! When I climbed to the top of the viewing area and was soundly chilled and buffeted. Worth it though.

Now, you might think me a bit mean, but it sure is fun watching folks dressed in shorts and sandals park, run to the official marker for a selfie and then scamper back to the warmth of their car. I’m not sure, but some land speed records were broken this morning. I could swear one couple made 40 yards to the official sign, took 3 pics and were back in about 18 seconds. Amazing athleticism! 😀

I am glad to learn that part of US Rt. 6 is one of the country’s 10 most dangerous roads – after we were down the other side. We just thought it was beautiful and fun. On the way up we stopped with other folks to watch a flock of mountain goats take up the entire roadway. When they left the road, they moved so fast up the slope! Their reputation for speed and sure footedness is justified.

We made our way to Rt. 72 and the Peak-to-Peak Scenic Byway toward Estes Park and Rocky Mountain National Park. Just more stunning landscape and fun riding.

I mentioned wrong turns. Well we had a few. Took a wrong turn in Nederland and wound up at a fabulous sandwich shop called the New Moon Bakery and Café. The food was awesome, and there was no real reason we should have found it, except we took the right wrong turn. The beauty of vacation.

For tonight and the next two we are staying in a cute little cabin on the edge of the National Park. It’s called Aspenhaven and owned by Tom and Janet who are as welcoming as any two persons could be. (Thanks!). We look forward to a nice night. Til tomorrow, have a good night, friends.

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Loveland

Peak to Peak Scenic Byway

The view from our Air BnB for the next few days.

Day 10 – June 10th

What a great day! We rode 265 miles in 8 hours and saw the highest paved mountain pass in America, hummingbirds, a Dutch couple riding a Harley on vacation, 8-foot snow packs, and folks in sandals walking hip deep in snow who claim it “felt great!”. Seriously. Where to start?

We’ll start with a wrong turn down a road headed the north when we wanted to ride south toward Independence Pass. (That was a consequence of the driver error/day dreaming). Our carefully laid plans blew up and Connie came to the rescue with a series of delightful reroutes that took us away from the usual path. I can’t exactly say where we were, but we wound up in backwoods camp land with cabins on lots that are clearly a slice of heaven to some lucky folks. And our course took us by a memorial to the 990 soldiers of the US Army’s 10th Mountain Division who lost their lives while fighting in World War II, on Kiska in Alaska’s Aleutian Island chain, and the mountainous Apennines of Italy. The memorial is aptly located at the Tennessee Pass (10,400 feet) on the Continental Divide.

Our impromptu route brought us to CO Rte 82 and the path to Independence Pass. The roads are pretty good considering that they are subject to frequent rock falls and avalanches, though the speed limit is fairly low. Vehicles longer than 35’ are not allowed above a certain point because of tight switchbacks and narrow road way. The fines begin at $500 for trying to evade that restriction. (We have a video that might make this understandable.) We had such a great time climbing to the top with just a few adrenaline moments, and stopped to admire the sight. There were lots of sightseers in every kind of vehicle and, yes, lots of bikes.

We were so happy to meet Theo and Julanda (not totally sure of the spelling, I’m sorry to say) from the Netherlands, who were riding a big Harley out of Denver. They were so enthusiastic about the friendliness and kindness they’ve received everywhere on their 3 week vacation. Of course Theo and I talked bikes and he waxed ecstatic about the many Harley’s he has owned over the years. His favorite rides close to home are centered on the northern Rhein River region. We’d love to ride with both of them some day. (Another bucket list item!)

While stopped, we saw all kinds of people doing everything from sinking to the hip in snow to cross country skiers to simple gawking at the majestic spectacle all around. The sun was out, the air was warm (relatively – almost 60*) and the view was beyond belief. Independence Pass tops out at 12,095 feet, yet the mountain tops towering above emphasize a feeling of being so small. We’re also glad we’ve had several days to acclimate to thin air at high altitude. Just amazing.

On the road to the pass, we stopped at a quaint general store and lodge that sported hummingbird feeders in front. Of course we had to try to get a shot, and out effort is posted here.

On our return ride to Dillon, we rode through all kinds of terrain, from green wetland watered by abundant snow melt, through semi arid land along I-70, and back to cool alpine environs around Breckinridge and Dillon. A great mix and a great ride. We crawled off the bike around 5:30 Mountain Time and proceeded to get a shower, then a beer and a brisket for supper. Bedtime is calling. And tomorrow is another good day. Be well.

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Pictures from our wrong turn

Independence Pass, from the beginning in Leadville.

Enamored with the hummingbirds.

If you look closely, you can see the roads we traveled at different altitudes.

The terrain was so varied today. Snow capped mountains, wide plateaus, steep valleys, river dug gorges and semi arid red rock mountains.

We had a fun ride from our Air BnB rental in Colorado Springs to Dillon, CO. Our trip lasted about 150 miles over some amazing roads. But first, we had to get packed up. Three nights in one spot is an open invitation for everything you own to run and hide in every nook and cranny. It all just scatters, you know? It took a little while to get it all together so we were a bit later getting away than we’d hoped. Packing was also a bit easier because we were wearing a high percentage of our clothes. Did I mention it was 34F this morning, with a pleasant breeze from the south? This is June, for pity’s sake. 😀

Our first hour or so was a long, slow climb beyond the first range of mountains through a low hanging cloud. Brrrr! Though our gear is very good and the seats heat up to a lovely toasty-ness, we stopped gratefully for cup of coffee at De Kerr’s Corner (café) at the junction of Routes 67 and 126 along the South Platte River. The place was filled with bikers and fishermen and serves wonderful food. The tackle shop next door is called “Ties & Lies” and they advertise fly fishing lessons. Wonderful! Connie got some really nice shots along that stretch of our journey.

We rode north on Rt. 126 and passed a huge tract of land, many square miles, that had been burned a couple of years ago. Amazing how capricious a fire can be: there are stands of stately firs still standing where the fire swept around leaving them untouched in swaths of ashes. It’s sad that so much land and many houses, were destroyed, yet there’s a lot of green new growth taking hold again. It’s wondrous how tenacious life is.

We stopped for lunch in South Park, CO. Yes, there is such a place though there is no sign of Kenny. By then the sun was out and we enjoyed a balmy 52F. We headed up State Rt. 9 toward Breckenridge and some really lovely roads surrounded by snow capped peaks and still frozen ponds. On the way we passed through Alma, CO, which lays claim to being the highest incorporated municipality in the US at 10,361 feet, and Hoosier Pass at 11,542 feet.

Then after some awesome twisties and fun stretches of road, we came to Breckenridge, which is best known as a ski resort town at 9,600 feet. It’s a very fancy, beautiful place and we noticed a lot of very chic people and posh boutiques on our way through town. It’s easy to see why folks would give a lot to come there to vacation or even live there full time.

Our destination, Dillon, is also a resort town but offers a somewhat less rarified atmosphere at 9,111 feet and somewhat more modest environs. It’s situated on the shores of the Dillon Reservoir and has it’s own glorious views. When we pulled into our Great Western motel, we saw dozens of small sail boats on the water. The sun was out and a brisk breeze was blowing beautiful beautiful craft over white capped water with snow capped mountains in the background. It was enchanting! However, the temperature was 50F and the water couldn’t be above 38F. If you’ve ever been on the water you know it was COLD out there! If you like to sail in this weather, you are your own kind of crazy. Makes riding a motorcycle look almost staid. Just saying.

At the end our day we are so glad to be enjoying life in each other’s company. Life is really good. Good night, friends.

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Cloudy, cold morning. And still beautiful.

More views of the Collegiate Peaks. Can’t get enough. Note the snow fences in the picture below. They are at least 12 ft high.

Dillon Lake Reservoir

Hi, friends. Sorry to say, there are two items of disappointing news. First, we were unable to climb Pikes Peak today. Turns out it was an uninviting place, with temps in the 30’s, light snow and 40+ mile gusts. Oh, well. We’ll have to try again one day. Second, a locally famous ribs joint was out of ribs tonight. Can you imagine? We had to settle for southern brisket and all the fixin’s. So sad. 😀

So instead of Pikes Peak, we contented ourselves with riding through the front range of the Rockies to the Arkansas River Valley, making a big loop covering over 240 miles of fabulous winding roads. The scenery is unparalleled and the company is the best.

Our route took us south to Cañon City (pronounced Canyon) and a cute little byway called Skyline Drive. It’s a narrow one-way drive on the bluff above the city with pretty views, dinosaur tracks, and fun twisties. Connie took a video that gives a feel for this pleasure. From there we rode north along US Rte 50 following the Arkansas River now in its full flood stage. We saw a ton of rafters riding the white water. We ran into a young man when we stoped for our sandwiches who just finished kayaking. He told us that the rafting business lasts only about 2 months because the spring runoff is usually gone by mid-July. Turns out this fellow is married to a woman from Scotia, NY where Mark and I are from. Small world, sometimes.

Later, we stopped for a soda at a roadside store in the small town of Cotopaxi. The soda was welcome in the heat (high 80’s) and the roaring Arkansas was mesmerizing. There we met a friendly fellow rider named Bob, who was out for the day on his big Harley. He hails from western Texas and has worked all over the country, including Atlantic City and NYC. We were captivated by his story of the time he spent in the north east – and he even expressed a liking for the region. He said that after the weather in West Texas, the jersey Shore and Cape May were a treat. Besides saying nice things about the East, he is genuinely a nice man and we enjoyed our meeting very much. He now lives and works out of Colorado Springs, and we hope to have occasion to meet him again one day. (Hey Bob, check out that County Road 1a)

Much of the rest of the day involved climbing (and descending) through passes ranging from 8,000 to 9,500 feet following toads with graceful though significant curves. We had to stop a number of times to take stock of the ranges before and behind. The American Rockies have 75 mountains higher than 14,000 feet, called “14ers”, by the cognoscenti. There are more than 800 peaks higher than 13,000 feet (13ers) as well. Faced with all that majesty, you have to stop and look. So we looked.

Of course, there’s a mundane side to all of this. We rested a few minutes in the dirt lot of a real estate office north of Cotopaxi that was selling fairly substantial lots. For example, one lot was described at 16,000 acres with an asking price of $8,500. That’s about 50 cents an acre with taxes of $500 per year. Of course the land is snow bound 6-7 months a year, but what a bargain! You’d have to build a home and you have to like snow and being alone, right? It may sound crazy to some, but there seem to be folks who are find this kind of challenge appealing. We are a diverse people after all.

Altogether we had a wonderful day together and no regrets, except maybe the ribs. Tomorrow, we push on north toward Dillon, CO.

Have a great night.

Skyline Drive, Cañon City, Co

The beautiful Royal Gorge

And the Collegiate Mountain Range. Oh wow.

Today has been a day of rest and recuperation, not to mention laundry and maintenance. Our grand foray was to the Garden of the Gods, a beautiful park owned by the city of Colorado Springs and only 10 minutes from where we’re staying. The park is set in the shadows of Cheyenne Mountain and Pikes Peak. Formerly home to the Ute tribe, the park features tall red sandstone towers that have been crafted by wind and water over millions of years. They are ideal for climbing, if you’re into that special brand of torture. We saw any number of folks inching their ways up narrow clefts and chimneys, and dangling out in space at the end of ropes as though it were exhilarating fun. Honestly, human crazy has no bounds. The good news for spectators and others is that all climbers have to be fully trained and equipped, and prove it, to be allowed to climb marked routes. We’re sure this cuts down on unfortunate mishaps that degrade the natural setting and alarm gentle passers-by.

The layout of the 480 acre park is perfect for folks of any ability to enjoy. There are shorter trails among the towers that are paved and gently sloped, and there are longer and more challenging trails that take you to areas that more fully reflect the natural habitat. Your choice with lots of staff to help should you want it.

We met John, a rising Junior at Univ. Texas at Austin, who loves his summer job. A history major, he is also much taken with the geology of this area. He was very kind (as just about everyone here has been) and shared some of what he knows about the park. We were sitting in the shadow of a formation called the Cathedral, festooned with climbers clambering up and rappelling down with every appearance of having fun. Immediately in front was a triple spire called the Three Graces, which resembled praying hands. John said he wished he was on the rock face himself; I was perfectly happy to be right where I was, thank you.

The naming of the park shows how differently folks look at the world. According to official park history, two surveyors set out in August, 1859 from Denver to lay out a site for a town to be called Colorado City. When they saw these beautiful sandstone formations, one, M.S. Beach, said it was a capital place for a beer garden once the area was built up. His partner, Rufus Cable, scoffed and said it was a place fit for a gathering of the gods. Personally, I could endorse both suggestions. I suppose it’s fitting (and inevitable?) that the more “poetic” vision prevailed.

The following may resonate for some family and fellow Rail Baron aficionados, so I hope you’ll all humor me. By the 1870’s, railroads were pushing their way through much of the western US. In 1871, we’re told, Gen. William Palmer, owner of the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad, established what is now Colorado Springs. He urged his friend, Charles Perkins, owner of the Burlington Railroad to extend his line to join Palmer’s at Colorado City and, while he’s at it, to purchase the land that is now the Garden of the Gods for his personal use. Mr. Perkins bought he land, but was so enamored with it, he wanted it kept pristine and free for the enjoyment of all. After his death in 1907, his children donated the site to the City with the proviso that “it shall remain free to the public, where no intoxicating liquors shall be manufactured, sold, or dispensed, where no building or structure shall be erected except those necessary to properly care for, protect, and maintain the area as a public park.” A long way from a beer hall. The upkeep of the park is funded from the city’s budget, concessions and donations from the public. An amazing business model, no?

We returned to our abode in early afternoon and promptly took a nap. Later the weather changed from sunny and 85 to hail, rain and thunder. That’s how the weather goes out here. We feel good about our choices today. Tomorrow, we’re off to ride up Pikes Peak. We are so excited!

Have a great night!

We were entertained by rock climbers during our visit.

Day 6 – June 6th

An historical note: today is the 75th anniversary of D-Day, the amphibious landing on the beaches at Normandy that opened the second front against the Third Reich. Thousands of Allied soldiers, sailors and airmen died that day. We need to remember them with gratitude.

Of less vital news: Connie and I rode 330 miles today from Hays, KS to Colorado Springs. After a foraging expedition to the King Soopers (yes, that’s the name of the market) we are ensconced in a cute loft apartment for 3 nights. A couple of fun facts: we have climbed a little more than 4,000 feet in elevation to 6,000 feet; we’re on Mountain Time so are 2 hours behind the east coast, and we’re only a few miles from Pikes Peak, one of our prime goals this trip.

The ride was predictably long and straight. Long stretches of I-70 look as though they were laid with a straight-edge across increasingly semi-arid rolling hills and arroyos. Sadly, some tracts had piles of tires, old cars and even trash tossed into depressions in the land. Otherwise there are miles and miles of farming and ranching area with not so many farmers visible. Cows, mule deer and a lone prarie dog kept us company for much of our journey. Not great conversationalists are cows, though when we pulled to the side of Colorado Rt. 24 to get a pic of a neat plant, a small klatch came to the fence to see what’s up. It feels like we disappointed them somehow when we pulled back onto the road, though I have no idea what qualifies as bovine entertainment. (Mark, can you help?)

This morning while prepping the bike, I met a Kansan named Chad who kindly spared a few minutes. He is fairly tall, rangy, and powerfully built with dark hair, a full beard, and an open, honest face. His manners are impeccable and he kindly spent a many minutes talking about his work. He and his two co-workers are on the road most days to build, service, disassemble and transport the cranes that erect and repair the huge wind turbines that are now so prevalent in the Plains states. He explained (if I heard rightly) that cranes are transported in pieces to each work site and then are built a section at a time with some of the workers high above the ground to make critical connections. The wind turbines are 260 feet tall so the crane needs to be correspondingly high. After the work is finished, the cranes are disassembled and carted to the next site. It makes me think of circus roustabouts or roadies, but with less glamor and more risk. Chad was happy to show pictures of their work and I was impressed. He and his coworkers know that there aren’t many who could do what they do. Though their days can be 14 or more hours long, they are justifiably, quietly proud of their work. Amazing the ways folks make their living.

As to the mundane matters of our trip, we are recuperating from the rush west and doing housekeeping chores like laundry, etc. We’ll spend a bit of tomorrow resting up and washing, then take a tour of some nearby attractions. We are so glad to be here, and look forward to the next stage of our trip.

More tomorrow. Have a good night.

—

A Kansas style summer storm. Had us thinking of Dorothy and the Wizard of Oz. Thankfully, the storm stayed just to the south of us and we could just enjoy gaping at it. “Run, Toto, run!”

Happy to make it to Colorado.

We would have been happier if the landscape changed a bit faster. Still on Interstate 70, still flat prairie lands. The prairie is really pretty for the first day or so.

Interesting vegetation.

And interesting humans say the cows. They came running to the fence when we pulled over.

Our first glimpse of the Rockies from 45 miles away (look closely straight down the road).

And then from 20 miles away.

And from Colorado Springs, where we are staying. Bliss.

We were seriously confused. Some Zen Mexican chow?

Another traveling day along exciting I-70. We covered 280 miles to Hays, KS, deep in the Great Plains. As we moved west across the Kansas River toward Topeka, the rolling hills gradually flattened so that the horizon appeared uniformly distant all around, and the sky looked like a huge dome reaching to forever, if that makes sense. The road seldom swerves from its knife-cut into the west. It’s a little intimidating, feeling small. We noticed that even as far as Topeka and even Salina, there were fields still underwater. Many were elevated and dry with new crops showing across thousands of acres. I guess you can tell we were impressed with the immensely of this land.

Kansas doesn’t have a lot of attractions, as we measure such things. There are no Six Flags or mammoth natural wonders. But there is a lot to enjoy if you don’t mind taking time. Dodge City has its infamous Boot Hill where Billy Clinton and the McLaury brothers are buried after being gunned down at the OK Corral. There’s the money museum in KC, the Evil Knievel museum in Topeka, and the Dwight D Eisenhower homestead and presidential library in Abilene. And there are a lot more fun looking attractions if you’re inclined. Unfortunately, we didn’t feel we could stop as we are in a hurry to get to Colorado. Next time maybe. Oh, did you know that former PA Senator Arlen Specter was a Kansas native? Another fun fact.

We’re prepping ourselves for a very long last let to Colorado Springs tomorrow. So we’re turning in shortly.

One last note: we will be entering Mountain Daylight Time on the morrow. That will put us 2 hours behind everyone back east, which may make our posts later than we’d like. Just a heads up.

Have a good night.

The chariot arrives!

Green Kansas

Another Gas Stop

Today we rode from western Illinois to Shawnee, Kansas, just west on Kansas City. We didn’t have a chance to talk with many people today, but moved on through 280 miles of construction and other fun stuff on I-70.

We crossed a number of rivers, including the Mississippi (the Big Muddy) and the Missouri. Both were very swollen from all the rain this year. Folks were comparing this year’s rainfall to 1993 when many farmers suffered big losses because they couldn’t replant in time for the summer crop (usually soy). In fact, we rode by any number of fields that were still underwater. It’s sad that many of these folks are struggling, and they should be remembered often..

We also enjoyed seeing the unique community place names and identifiers along the way. We passed a huge memorial dedicated to Missouri firefighters; it appeared to be adjacent to an extensive training facility west of St. Louis. My hunch is that every state has a similar memorial site, but we are (I am) ignorant of their whereabouts. The University of Missouri, Columbia, was along our route. It’s a good sized, pretty campus. Then there were some of the signs… oh, my… Approaching Blackwater, MO, we were invited to visit Bucksnort Trading Post, Co., LLC, purveyors of fine gifts, flowers and good home cooking. Located in Arrow Root, MO, they are positioned on the Santa Fe Trail, famous of the Westward Expansion, and receives particular mention on the Missouri State Visitors Site. Had we not been hurrying through, we’d have liked to stop in. Seriously, it looks worth the time and effort. It’s just the name, you know?

On a personal note, our bodies are reluctantly getting acclimated to long periods on the bike. Past experience tells us the screaming parts will calm down (or grow numb) soon. Just in time to enjoy the our favorite kind of riding in the mountains. Until then … some general anesthetic (liquid) is in order.

Prost!

We entered Missouri at St Louis and had a great view of the mighty Mississippi.

Random shots

Lots of huge grain silos dotted the landscape.

A stop for gas. Fill ‘er up.

We entered Kansas at the end of our day.