40 days and 40 nights…

Today was our last full day in Jasper, AB, and we continued our leisurely pace by lounging until 8:30. We had breakfast with Mike from Chicago (still didn’t get his last name!) and saw him off to Prince George, BC on his way to the AlCan Highway and Alaska. For our part, we set off for Maligne Lake within Jasper Nat’l Park. It’s another one of those trips that looks brief but isn’t. According to Google Maps, it is 47 kms, about 28 miles, which might take an hour. That prediction does not include stops for pictures, stops for caribou, so forth. In fact, we spent almost 4 hours heading into the park though the delays were mostly self inflicted. We had the pleasure of sharing the road in with a trio of young caribou who couldn’t seem to decide which side to take.

The road we were following, predictably called Maligne Lake Road, took us by some gorgeous lakes and streams, including the Abathasca River, and the Maligne River that connects a couple of lakes in the north park. The Maligne River got its name from a French Jesuit explorer who thought the trouble the river gave him was wicked or evil: hence the name “Maligne”. The Maligne River has cut its was through bedrock to make a steep, narrow Canyon we reached by a nicely laid out trail. The river then goes underground before emptying into Medicine Lake. The view of the rushing water snarling through the narrow defile dozens of feet below is so striking. At one point, we saw a heart-shaped rock the size of a VW Bug wedged between the lips of the narrow canyon. Yes, Connie got the pic.

We climbed back on Shiny and rode by Medicine Lake, which has a number of islands near its eastern shore that host bald eagle nests. (They look more like airborne condominiums than nests, but I digress.) We didn’t get a pic of the adolescents (they did not yet have the white cap of full adults) but it was impressive. Also impressive was the size of the sheer mountain cliff that lined the road, with signs abjuring us not to stop due to avalanches. It was also clear that there have been big wildfires recently that wiped out large tracts of trees. We chose to heed the warnings and move along without pause..

At last we arrived at Maligne Lake where we took another nice little hike to the shoreline. The first white person to sight the lake was Mary Schaffer, an artist from Philadelphia who rode north with some friends in 1907 and 1908. She was looking for a remote lake called Chaba Imne by the First Nation people. She called it Maligne Lake after the river and explored its shores on lengthy raft expeditions. It’s a beautiful alpine lake that attracts a lot of tourists today. One question that comes to mind is, What drove this Philly woman to wind up so far from home? Is this intrepid explorer recognized in her native city? Inquiring minds want to know. (This brings to mind beloved cheesesteaks and sticky buns. I’m hungry.)

On the road back to Jasper, we were treated to wonderful vistas that revolved around – yes, mountains. Connie got a couple of spectacular shots of our road to the mountains.

Of course we met some folks today who piqued our interest. James and Lisa were visiting Maligne Lake with their pup, Maya. They live near Calgary and are retracing the steps of their honeymoon vacation after 30 years. They were so happy to suggest good spots to visit in and near Banff to folks who were all ears. (Apropos of nothing whatever, did you hear that Ross Perot recently died?) They were eager to hear our thoughts on their country and recent events in the US and the joys of riding in the rain, and so forth.) We had a great visit with them, and we think they felt the same. Oh, and while we were gabbing a big black bear came into view about 200 yards away. Everyone was excited. Including the folks much closer who were running away. Interesting how a large carnivore can generate so much energy.

Tomorrow morning early, we’re heading south on the Icefields Parkway and Banff. Can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings.

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Maligne Canyon

Maligne Lake

Medicine Lake

Today was a leisurely, fun day. We slept in a bit then headed into Jasper Nat’l Park to the south on Alberta Rt 93, ostensibly to find a trail that leads to “Edge of the World.” We had a lovely ride to get to the vicinity of the trail located, we were told, on the road to the Marmot Basin ski resort. Found the road, check. Rode 7.6 km to where the trailhead is located, check. Could we find it? That would be no. We walked and hunted and asked passers-by, but no luck. Oh, well. Fun ride, fun walk, but the world’s edge was an elusive quarry.

Alberta Rt 93 is called the “Icefields Parkway” runs 232 kilometers (144 miles) along the Continental Divide from Jasper to Lake Louise, Alberta at its south end. In addition to Jasper Nat’l Park in the north, Banff Nat’l Park encompasses the southern half. The parks are famous for their majestic mountains, glaciers and rivers. There are lots of campsites and fabulous hikes mapped out of all lengths and levels of difficulty.

We took a couple of short hikes at our next stop, Mt. Edith Cavell. Turning on a side road off Rt 93, we climbed quite a ways into the forest above on Cavell Road. The ride was 14 km (8.5 miles) and took us a half hour. Lots of twists and switchbacks;and trailers are prohibited (yea!). The posted speed for most sharp bends is 15 or 20 kph. That’s 8 to 12 mph, and the road warranted those speeds. So long as you’re not in a big hurry, it’s lots of fun.

There are several turnouts for great views of the Astoria Valley with glaciers at its head, the obligatory bridge over the rushing stream, and finally the parking area for Mt. Edith Cavell. The mountain is named for a famous Canadian nurse who cared for many hundreds of Allied soldiers during WWI. A short hike up a good path took us to an overlook of the mountain and two glaciers: the Cavell Glacier with clearly layered ice, and Angel Glacier that looked like it had wings. Cavell Pond lays below the sheer north face of the mountain, and right under the Cavell Glacier. There are bergs floating in the pond that calved recently, and there are warnings to stay clear of the pond: frequent falling ice bergs the size of houses cause flash flooding that can sweep an unwary hiker away. Recent warming trends have melted a large Glacier that covered the entire area until recently, and fragile sub-Alpine flowers and plants are slowly taking hold now. Cavell Glacier and Angel Glacier are all that remain in this spot.

We had a little picnic at our overlook and took a ton of pictures. Hope you enjoy them. About mid-afternoon we packed up and returned to our bike. A nice ride back to Jasper, a stop at the grocery store, then to the room for a nap. That’s right. We took a nap, the epitome of decadence, before supper with our friend, Mike. Tomorrow, he heads out toward Alaska while we head back into Jasper Park for more mountains. And glaciers. And the obligatory bridges over rushing water. Rough life.

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Beauty at every turn.

Flowers, some cultivated and some not

Glaciers of Mount Edith Cavell

Today was a nice travel day to Jasper, Alberta, at the top of the Icefield Parkway through Jasper National (Canadian), the northernmost point of our trip. Our route up BC 5 took us through a myriad of small towns , some incorporated and others not. All had the feel of places gratefully soaking up the nearly summer like temperatures: highs in the 60’s so far. That’s summer weather up here, by the way. We have had a lot of rain lately. Though the views would be better in sunlight, the folks up here are grateful for the rain. Winters have been a little warmer recently with less snow pack, thus less moisture later in the year, thus more wildfires of late. Rain is better.

We met some wonderful people today. (They’re out there if you look.) Bill (I think) and Daisy run a small snack stand in Avola, BC, a tiny unincorporated town of not many souls. We had a nice lunch and lots of great conversation. Bill works for the Province as a plow driver during winter and is self employed as an everything man the rest of the year. He showed us about a dozen projects he currently has underway. He also was a font of knowledge for the miles that were still ahead. He waxed poetic about Mt. Robeson, the tallest peak in British Columbia – Connie got a number of shots of this spectacular mountain. We both thought Bill was a doppelgänger of Phil, a family friend, but I digress again. Daisy is the heart of the establishment (cook and chief bottle washer) who is just returned from a visit to family in China. I think it must be tough sometimes to make a new life in a new land while having loved ones left behind. We think Daisy and Bill will be successful. (Bill: if I’ve gotten your name wrong, please contact me so I can fix. Thanks.)

The ride today had its moments. We nearly ran out of gas. That’s because the appearance of a town on the map does not necessarily mean that there are gas stations, stores, or even people there. Meeting a sign that warns there is no gas for the next 60 miles (100km) when you have about 40 miles worth of gas left gets your attention. Fancy powerful bikes require regular infusions of fuel. Fortunately, when we saw the sign we were able to reverse course and coast into the station a ways back. The proprietor had that look that says he sees a lot of folk coast back in. He prices his fuel,accordingly. PT Barnum would be proud.

We pulled into Jasper and checked into our hotel, a really cute place called the Tonquin Inn. We met Mike, a man from Chicago about our age who is about 9 days into a trip that will ultimately take him to Alaska via the Can-Am Highway. We started talking because we have the same model bike and our conversation took us through cocktails and dinner. He shared a terrific book that highlights the ride to Alaska and, we’re happy to say, it looks really inviting. He is a retired HR/Personnel Director for a national supermarket group and a font of terrific stories. He also recently toured by bike in New Zealand. Amazing. Turns out we dined next to a couple who are celebrating their 42nd (or is it 43rd) anniversary by traveling by car to Alaska from their home in Scottsdale, AZ – today is their 57th day on the road. Lots of great stories and wonderful time.

A note that comes to mind. Connie and I were chatting by intercom today and realized we need to think of more words to describe the land we’re riding through. “Wow”, “beautiful”, “amazing”, so forth are just wearing out from over use. This is a spectacular land, that neither picture nor word can adequately describe. I’m not often at a loss for words, but these days I am. What wonders of creation!

Tomorrow we hope to make some rounds about the northern reaches of the Ice Fields. Let’s see what the new day brings. Have a good night.

Oh, we’re now back in Mountain Time, only 2 hours difference from the Eastern Timezone.

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Bill and Daisy. They were so nice to talk with.

Beautiful Rockies. Remember the song “Rocky Mountain High?”

Mt. Robson – Highest Peak in Canada

A running commentary on July 3rd to the 7th

Tonight we’re resting in Kamloops, British Columbia, in a hotel that has WiFi (at last) that enables us to post again. Our last post took us through our arrival in Nanaimo, Victoria Island on the 2nd. On the 3rd, it was decided that everyone needed a break. So we all took one, each in our own way. Connie, Pat and Judy did a few errands and then lounged around the cute cabin we’d rented. They report it was perfect, with lots of chances to talk and shmooze and whatever. I am very happy for them to be sure. I set off on a solo ride along the north shoreline, and then cut across to Port Alberni on the west coast. On the way I stopped at Cathedral Grove, a small park within MacMillan Provincial Park on Rt. 4. The oldest Douglas Firs are more than 800 years old and create a towering canopy that is both quiet and vibrant. People walk quietly and speak in hushed tones. It truly has the feel of a sacred space.

Port Alberni has been an important outlet for the logging industry since the mid-1800’s. It also was an important safe haven for merchant vessels during the 2nd World War from Japanese and German submarines. The town is proud of its heritage, though it’s not quite so busy these days. There is an inviting shipboard B&B docked on the quay with 7 staterooms available. I think it’s very cool. Anyway, it was a great day’s ride and very relaxing.

On Thursday, the 4th, (Happy Independence Day – belated) Pat and Connie went to Pipers Point and walked the shore. Then they hung around Georgia Park waiting for Judy and I to return. Judy and I went to Newcastle Island, traditional home to the First Nation people, the S’nanaimo, who call it Saysutshun. The island does double duty as a Provincial Marine Park, and a sacred space for the S’nanaimo. We took a guided tour of the island, and our guide, a member of the tribe, shared a ton of history and important stories from their past. It was fascinating and fun. We all met for supper I downtown at a Thai restaurant while a city fair was going on around us. It was a wonderful day.

On Friday the 5th, we went to Victoria to visit the Royal Museum which has a fabulous First Nation exhibit; then we took a whale watching cruise and saw a number of pods of Orcas (killer whales) and one humongous humpback whale. We feasted in town and got home late. Long day but really good.

Yesterday, the 6th, we had to part ways again. Connie and I took a ferry for Vancouver while Judy and Pat caught a ferry to Tsawassen – Pat to catch her flight and Judy to drive home to Eureka, CA. It was sad to part ways, but we had such a good time being together and sharing our experiences. Pat we’ll see again soon; Judy we hope to see next in November.

So, we spent the night in Vancouver , BC, just next to Stanley Park on the west side. The city is beautiful, though we didn’t see a lot of it. We met Gloria who lives near the hotel where we stayed, and she gave us wonderful ideas for a walk and some dining spots. We wound up having sushi on the water and it was fabulous, I’ve never had better. Our hotel was a turn of the century pension (last century) and had fairly awful WiFi, hence no post yesterday.

Today, Connie and I were up and at’em some time before the sun came up in Hawaii and on our way north, deep into the Canadian Rockies. Our goal was Kamloops via Whistler and Lilooet on BC Rt 99. An amazing road with amazing scenery at every turn. Didn’t matter that it rained most of the way up: boiling rivers cutting through narrow, steep canyons; waterfalls on both sides and clouds steaming from illside forests like the Great Smokey Mountains in NC. The only hitch was a wrong turn in Lilooet that led us down a lonely road deep into a First Nation reservation. We spent an hour going out of our way through a lot of pristine beauty. We suffered nobly.

Along the way we saw a huge Canadian National Railway train moving along a beautiful lake but in the shadow of a 2,000 foot cliff. A striking view that we saved for a family train lover.

Another note: we saw a lot of evidence of avalanches on our ride. The warning signs prohibiting stops in highly dangerous areas, huge retaining walls, and numbers of rocks that rolled onto the roadside were also valuable hints. It’s a reminder that these mountains are relatively young, and still going through periods of fairly quick erosion. Which has an effect on human-type activity. There are a lot of provincial road crews out there all the time making repairs, and the infrastructure shows some savvy decisions. For example, on our ride along several back roads, we crossed wooden bridges in avalanche zones. We thought this odd until we realized a wooden bridge can be repaired or replaced a lot quicker and more cheaply than a steel and concrete structure. An unexpected local answer that works.

To our rider friends, we have found no better riding than here. Put this on your list.

Well, tomorrow it’s north and east to Jasper, Alberta for a three night stay. Our route will take us through more mountains. Oh, can we stand the strain.

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Hank’s meander while the women did chores and chilled out.

800 yr old trees

Floating BnB in Port Alberni

Nanaimo’s Georgia Park

Hank and Judy’s trip to Newcastle Island and a private nature tour

Whale watching

Our boat

Orcas (Killer Whales)

A Coffee Stop for the crew of a Zodiac whale watching boat

Saying Good-Bye to Mom and Judy (an early morning event after a night of celebrating – we are all bleary eyed).

Limited site seeing in Vancouver and a very early bedtime for us.

Very scenic travels to Kamloops, BC (a waypoint)

Yes, everything including the water, was green. Beautiful.

Incredible

A train travels along the lake.

We got lost. So awful. Not.

Looking back on our “wrong” turn.

Random beauty.

Dear family and friends. We didn’t forget the blog. We’ve just been busy visiting with my Mom and Hank’s sister.

Vancouver Island is beautiful!

We promise to catch up soon!

Nanaimo, British Columbia

Quick update tonight. We had a cool, wet ride from LaPush, WA to Nanaimo, BC via US 101 and the Black Ball ferry from Port Angeles to Victoria, BC. Not much to say except it was a cool wet ride. Fortunately the weather cleared as we approached Nanaimo on the northern coast of Vancouver Island and it looks to be good weather for the next few days.

We met some really neat people on the 1-1/2 hour ferry ride. Rick and Jamie are Harley riders who call Nanaimo their home. Rick is owner of a tire shop in town, which keeps him so busy he doesn’t get out to ride as often as they’d like; and Jamie is a home care coordinator with the Canadian Government for older citizens and to help them stay independent in their own homes as long as possible. She says she finds it really satisfying and is glad for her work. They were so friendly and helpful, seeing that we’re visiting their city for the first time. We would really enjoy meeting them again some time.

We met another couple from Nanaimo who were also traveling by bike. They each rode their own dual purpose bikes (on and off road). It was the woman’s first extended trip which is very exciting. We’re sorry to say we didn’t catch their names, but they were very kind in suggesting special spots to visit while here.

Another rider is Doug from Sonoma, CA. He’s riding solo on an extended trip through the Northwest US and BC, Canada. Doug is a retired Alaska marine harbor pilot who is licensed as a Ship’s Master, any tonnage, any ocean. He’s understandably proud of his accomplishments and his 50 years of service to the merchant marine. He is now in his 70’s and loving large. And does he have stories!

We are so glad we met these folks – it made the travel day so much more enjoyable.

So, not so much to tell except that we are safely at our new destination and glad for the chance to discover what this special area has to offer. Access to the internet is spotty at best. We have no idea when this will be uploaded, but we’ll do our best.

More tomorrow.

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Except for poor road signage, Victoria, BC was so welcoming.

It was a beautiful day in the neighborhood. We made an excursion to the Hoh Valley Rain Forest, one of the seven wonders of Washington State, about 50 miles away. Connie and I led the way on our bike while Judy, her cat and Pat bounced along after us. A fun ride.

Hoh Rain Forest is one of the few temperate (not tropical and swelteringly hot) rain forests in the world. Like it’s name, Hoh Rain Forest historically has gotten about 240 inches of rain per year, though it’s been declining in recent years. There is concern for how the forest will cope with a warming climate.

We hiked/strolled along a nice trail called the Hall of Mosses (I first saw “Moses” and though of parting seas of flowers, so forth) that features a panoply of plants, big and small. Judy, who lived in Washington until recently, was a wonderful guide, especially to the native species. And some were spectacular! The largest were the Sitka Spruce and Western Hemlock which can be 1,000 years old in the park, reach 300 feet high and seven feet in diameter. The life cycle of these goliaths is fascinating. When a giant falls, it naturally begins to decay and break down into its constituent nutrients. Eventually, shoots and seedlings take root in the fallen body and begin to grow, competing with other small plants for nutrients and sunlight. The decaying tree is considered a “nurse” tree to all who depend on it. The shoots bide their time, growing slowly in the remains of the nurse tree until another giant falls, creating a gap in the canopy that allows more sunlight to reach the forest floor. With more light it’s off to the races with the swiftest, strongest and luckiest young trees making it to tall adulthood. Eventually, the nurse tree is totally used up, leaving an impressive array of roots visible above ground. And the cycle repeats again and again.

The Hall of Mosses gets its name from the impressive mats of lichen and mosses that adorn nearly every tree. It made me think of Spanish Moss in the south, but it doesn’t drape so thickly up here. The moss attaches itself to the tree, but is not a parasite that relies on the tree for sustenance. Rather, it makes its living on the mist and fog and the particulate matter that is suspended in the moist air. In the right light, it looks stunning and a bit eerie.

When we got home we indulged in some dinner and beverages, and have started packing for our journey to our next destination. You may remember what I said about unpacked belongings scurrying to hide-holes everywhere. Well, we’re hunting and gathering now. Tomorrow it’s on to Nanaimo on Vancouver Island, BC via the ferry from Port Angelis, WA. Should be fun!

I seriously cannot wait for good, fast internet. #spoiled #firstworldproblems

Today was super relaxed. Connie and I walked the south-facing beach in front of our lodgings this morning. On top of the wonderful sounds and smells of the shore, there’s a great abundance of drift wood. That’s stating it too mildly. There’s a veritable forest of washed up trees strewn everywhere along the high water line: trees that were undercut along riverbanks and numbered trees that got away from loggers. They’re all here in their gigantic, bleached-bone glory. It’s beautiful and a little bit eerie. There are islands just off shore, remnants of this coast’s violent geologic past, that wear toupees of tall pine. The only place on the east coast like this (that we can think of is in Acadia Nat’l Park in Maine).

We’ve been blessed with some great weather – it has not been raining much. The temps have hovered in the 60’s and low 70’s. The water, though, is so cold that no one goes in without a wet suit.

This afternoon Connie, Pat, Judy and I took a leisurely stroll along Rialto Beach that extends from the Quillayute River north in an area preserved by the Nat’l Park Service. If you’re adventurous there’s a great little hike of about 5 miles along and above beach. If you were like us, there are dozens of delightful spots to set a spell, enjoy some snacks and watch. We saw gulls in their cast of thousands, cormorants diving, seals and a couple of bald eagles, one perched and one gliding overhead. Very cool.

We came back to the apartment and had dinner, some drinks and good conversation. Great day.

Some random thoughts. Connie and I met a couple on the beach this morning who are traveling by RV. We asked how long they’ve been on the road and they said, “We haven’t had a permanent address for two years.” Took a second for that to sink in. Their last home was in San Diego but when they retired, off they went through all of the mainland US and Canada. We were amazed. What a story! We didn’t ask about family or details on how this works. We just appreciated the story. We know that’s not for us – we actually like to be around family and friends more regularly. But to imagine the possibilities….

I met Vishot and Areev, (not sure of the spelling, I’m afraid) an uncle and nephew, on the beach today. I noticed that Vishot wore a N.Y. Giants hat and congratulated him on his good taste in teams. Turns out that they are from the Minneapolis area and we’re visiting the Olympic Peninsula again with family. It was about that time the seals appeared, one of whom was floating on his back eating a fish he’d just caught. That got Areev going about seaweed and other foods that are naturally disgusting per the wisdom 8-year olds everywhere. Which got us going (uncle and I) about how would you know you don’t like something if you don’t try it? We enjoyed the conversation for a couple hundred yards before they had to catch up with the rest of their family. Loved the conversation but never found out how this Giants fan ended up in Minnesota. Wondering if sushi might lie in Areev’s dining future. Inquiring minds may never know.

Tomorrow it’s off to the Hoh Valley, an unusual temperate rain forest nearby. Can’t wait.

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Sunset, June 29

Morning walk

Rialto Beach

Had a nice easy ride from Olympia to LaPush, WA on the Olympic Peninsula. We covered 160 miles through very lush, very green land. We had the road to ourselves most of th time. It felt a lot like riding through back country Maine. A lot of forests and a lot of clear cutting. Many of the clear-cut tracts look like they’ve been blasted by bombs. It’s clear we need lumber and wood products, but is it possible to take better care of the land after harvest? Just wondering.

Our route took us up US Rte 101 which followed the coast much of the way. We passed through towns that have unlikely names, at least to easterners like us: Humptulips (home to a salmon hatchery), Queets, Kalaloch, and the entrance to the Hoh Valley. We don’t know much about them, but they were part of a lovely ride so we appreciate them as their names stuck in our minds.

We are staying at the Quileute Oceanside Resort on the Quileute Reservation. Our rooms are about 200 yards from the beach. We’re here with my mother-in-law,Pat and my sister, Judy. Pat flew out from Philly and Judy is coming from Humbolt County, CA. We look forward to a number of days together here and on Vancouver Island next week.

The view from our deck is stunning. There at literally hundreds of tons of driftwood trees washed up above the waterline. Their bleached look makes us think of dinosaur bones or some such. There are few swimmers in the water because it’s so cold. But there are islands reaching out from the shore left over from past geological action and the more recent glaciers. The islands act like break waters to calm the surf. Kind of like jetties along the Jersey Shore, only an awe full lot bigger. Tomorrow morning we’re thinking about heading along the shore at low tide to spot tidal pools, if we can. Oh, and fireworks are legal in these parts. We’re kind of hoping the rockets I’ll run out before too long.

Another happy day doing little. We have enjoyed our stay in Olympia, Washington’s State Capital, and celebrated our anniversary. Low key. Restful. Nice. Tomorrow we set out for LaPush on the Olympic Peninsula where we will spend several days with Connie’s mom, Pat, and my big sister, Judy. We should have a beautiful day’s ride today.

We met a couple of wonderful families from Kamloops, BC who are vacationing in the States. We didn’t catch everyone’s name – the kids were moving much too fast after many hours cooped up in the car. We did catch the dad’s names, Max and Mark, who so kindly shared suggestions about what to see and where to ride near their home. Max’s wife (I’m so sorry about missing names) is from Victoria Island and made some suggestions there, too.

We are so fortunate to meet wonderful people like these families. They really brightened our day.

The next few days will find us with little or no cell or internet coverage. We’ll update when we can, though.

Enjoy your day!