A running commentary on July 3rd to the 7th

Tonight we’re resting in Kamloops, British Columbia, in a hotel that has WiFi (at last) that enables us to post again. Our last post took us through our arrival in Nanaimo, Victoria Island on the 2nd. On the 3rd, it was decided that everyone needed a break. So we all took one, each in our own way. Connie, Pat and Judy did a few errands and then lounged around the cute cabin we’d rented. They report it was perfect, with lots of chances to talk and shmooze and whatever. I am very happy for them to be sure. I set off on a solo ride along the north shoreline, and then cut across to Port Alberni on the west coast. On the way I stopped at Cathedral Grove, a small park within MacMillan Provincial Park on Rt. 4. The oldest Douglas Firs are more than 800 years old and create a towering canopy that is both quiet and vibrant. People walk quietly and speak in hushed tones. It truly has the feel of a sacred space.

Port Alberni has been an important outlet for the logging industry since the mid-1800’s. It also was an important safe haven for merchant vessels during the 2nd World War from Japanese and German submarines. The town is proud of its heritage, though it’s not quite so busy these days. There is an inviting shipboard B&B docked on the quay with 7 staterooms available. I think it’s very cool. Anyway, it was a great day’s ride and very relaxing.

On Thursday, the 4th, (Happy Independence Day – belated) Pat and Connie went to Pipers Point and walked the shore. Then they hung around Georgia Park waiting for Judy and I to return. Judy and I went to Newcastle Island, traditional home to the First Nation people, the S’nanaimo, who call it Saysutshun. The island does double duty as a Provincial Marine Park, and a sacred space for the S’nanaimo. We took a guided tour of the island, and our guide, a member of the tribe, shared a ton of history and important stories from their past. It was fascinating and fun. We all met for supper I downtown at a Thai restaurant while a city fair was going on around us. It was a wonderful day.

On Friday the 5th, we went to Victoria to visit the Royal Museum which has a fabulous First Nation exhibit; then we took a whale watching cruise and saw a number of pods of Orcas (killer whales) and one humongous humpback whale. We feasted in town and got home late. Long day but really good.

Yesterday, the 6th, we had to part ways again. Connie and I took a ferry for Vancouver while Judy and Pat caught a ferry to Tsawassen – Pat to catch her flight and Judy to drive home to Eureka, CA. It was sad to part ways, but we had such a good time being together and sharing our experiences. Pat we’ll see again soon; Judy we hope to see next in November.

So, we spent the night in Vancouver , BC, just next to Stanley Park on the west side. The city is beautiful, though we didn’t see a lot of it. We met Gloria who lives near the hotel where we stayed, and she gave us wonderful ideas for a walk and some dining spots. We wound up having sushi on the water and it was fabulous, I’ve never had better. Our hotel was a turn of the century pension (last century) and had fairly awful WiFi, hence no post yesterday.

Today, Connie and I were up and at’em some time before the sun came up in Hawaii and on our way north, deep into the Canadian Rockies. Our goal was Kamloops via Whistler and Lilooet on BC Rt 99. An amazing road with amazing scenery at every turn. Didn’t matter that it rained most of the way up: boiling rivers cutting through narrow, steep canyons; waterfalls on both sides and clouds steaming from illside forests like the Great Smokey Mountains in NC. The only hitch was a wrong turn in Lilooet that led us down a lonely road deep into a First Nation reservation. We spent an hour going out of our way through a lot of pristine beauty. We suffered nobly.

Along the way we saw a huge Canadian National Railway train moving along a beautiful lake but in the shadow of a 2,000 foot cliff. A striking view that we saved for a family train lover.

Another note: we saw a lot of evidence of avalanches on our ride. The warning signs prohibiting stops in highly dangerous areas, huge retaining walls, and numbers of rocks that rolled onto the roadside were also valuable hints. It’s a reminder that these mountains are relatively young, and still going through periods of fairly quick erosion. Which has an effect on human-type activity. There are a lot of provincial road crews out there all the time making repairs, and the infrastructure shows some savvy decisions. For example, on our ride along several back roads, we crossed wooden bridges in avalanche zones. We thought this odd until we realized a wooden bridge can be repaired or replaced a lot quicker and more cheaply than a steel and concrete structure. An unexpected local answer that works.

To our rider friends, we have found no better riding than here. Put this on your list.

Well, tomorrow it’s north and east to Jasper, Alberta for a three night stay. Our route will take us through more mountains. Oh, can we stand the strain.

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Hank’s meander while the women did chores and chilled out.

800 yr old trees

Floating BnB in Port Alberni

Nanaimo’s Georgia Park

Hank and Judy’s trip to Newcastle Island and a private nature tour

Whale watching

Our boat

Orcas (Killer Whales)

A Coffee Stop for the crew of a Zodiac whale watching boat

Saying Good-Bye to Mom and Judy (an early morning event after a night of celebrating – we are all bleary eyed).

Limited site seeing in Vancouver and a very early bedtime for us.

Very scenic travels to Kamloops, BC (a waypoint)

Yes, everything including the water, was green. Beautiful.

Incredible

A train travels along the lake.

We got lost. So awful. Not.

Looking back on our “wrong” turn.

Random beauty.

Dear family and friends. We didn’t forget the blog. We’ve just been busy visiting with my Mom and Hank’s sister.

Vancouver Island is beautiful!

We promise to catch up soon!

Nanaimo, British Columbia

Quick update tonight. We had a cool, wet ride from LaPush, WA to Nanaimo, BC via US 101 and the Black Ball ferry from Port Angeles to Victoria, BC. Not much to say except it was a cool wet ride. Fortunately the weather cleared as we approached Nanaimo on the northern coast of Vancouver Island and it looks to be good weather for the next few days.

We met some really neat people on the 1-1/2 hour ferry ride. Rick and Jamie are Harley riders who call Nanaimo their home. Rick is owner of a tire shop in town, which keeps him so busy he doesn’t get out to ride as often as they’d like; and Jamie is a home care coordinator with the Canadian Government for older citizens and to help them stay independent in their own homes as long as possible. She says she finds it really satisfying and is glad for her work. They were so friendly and helpful, seeing that we’re visiting their city for the first time. We would really enjoy meeting them again some time.

We met another couple from Nanaimo who were also traveling by bike. They each rode their own dual purpose bikes (on and off road). It was the woman’s first extended trip which is very exciting. We’re sorry to say we didn’t catch their names, but they were very kind in suggesting special spots to visit while here.

Another rider is Doug from Sonoma, CA. He’s riding solo on an extended trip through the Northwest US and BC, Canada. Doug is a retired Alaska marine harbor pilot who is licensed as a Ship’s Master, any tonnage, any ocean. He’s understandably proud of his accomplishments and his 50 years of service to the merchant marine. He is now in his 70’s and loving large. And does he have stories!

We are so glad we met these folks – it made the travel day so much more enjoyable.

So, not so much to tell except that we are safely at our new destination and glad for the chance to discover what this special area has to offer. Access to the internet is spotty at best. We have no idea when this will be uploaded, but we’ll do our best.

More tomorrow.

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Except for poor road signage, Victoria, BC was so welcoming.

It was a beautiful day in the neighborhood. We made an excursion to the Hoh Valley Rain Forest, one of the seven wonders of Washington State, about 50 miles away. Connie and I led the way on our bike while Judy, her cat and Pat bounced along after us. A fun ride.

Hoh Rain Forest is one of the few temperate (not tropical and swelteringly hot) rain forests in the world. Like it’s name, Hoh Rain Forest historically has gotten about 240 inches of rain per year, though it’s been declining in recent years. There is concern for how the forest will cope with a warming climate.

We hiked/strolled along a nice trail called the Hall of Mosses (I first saw “Moses” and though of parting seas of flowers, so forth) that features a panoply of plants, big and small. Judy, who lived in Washington until recently, was a wonderful guide, especially to the native species. And some were spectacular! The largest were the Sitka Spruce and Western Hemlock which can be 1,000 years old in the park, reach 300 feet high and seven feet in diameter. The life cycle of these goliaths is fascinating. When a giant falls, it naturally begins to decay and break down into its constituent nutrients. Eventually, shoots and seedlings take root in the fallen body and begin to grow, competing with other small plants for nutrients and sunlight. The decaying tree is considered a “nurse” tree to all who depend on it. The shoots bide their time, growing slowly in the remains of the nurse tree until another giant falls, creating a gap in the canopy that allows more sunlight to reach the forest floor. With more light it’s off to the races with the swiftest, strongest and luckiest young trees making it to tall adulthood. Eventually, the nurse tree is totally used up, leaving an impressive array of roots visible above ground. And the cycle repeats again and again.

The Hall of Mosses gets its name from the impressive mats of lichen and mosses that adorn nearly every tree. It made me think of Spanish Moss in the south, but it doesn’t drape so thickly up here. The moss attaches itself to the tree, but is not a parasite that relies on the tree for sustenance. Rather, it makes its living on the mist and fog and the particulate matter that is suspended in the moist air. In the right light, it looks stunning and a bit eerie.

When we got home we indulged in some dinner and beverages, and have started packing for our journey to our next destination. You may remember what I said about unpacked belongings scurrying to hide-holes everywhere. Well, we’re hunting and gathering now. Tomorrow it’s on to Nanaimo on Vancouver Island, BC via the ferry from Port Angelis, WA. Should be fun!

I seriously cannot wait for good, fast internet. #spoiled #firstworldproblems

Today was super relaxed. Connie and I walked the south-facing beach in front of our lodgings this morning. On top of the wonderful sounds and smells of the shore, there’s a great abundance of drift wood. That’s stating it too mildly. There’s a veritable forest of washed up trees strewn everywhere along the high water line: trees that were undercut along riverbanks and numbered trees that got away from loggers. They’re all here in their gigantic, bleached-bone glory. It’s beautiful and a little bit eerie. There are islands just off shore, remnants of this coast’s violent geologic past, that wear toupees of tall pine. The only place on the east coast like this (that we can think of is in Acadia Nat’l Park in Maine).

We’ve been blessed with some great weather – it has not been raining much. The temps have hovered in the 60’s and low 70’s. The water, though, is so cold that no one goes in without a wet suit.

This afternoon Connie, Pat, Judy and I took a leisurely stroll along Rialto Beach that extends from the Quillayute River north in an area preserved by the Nat’l Park Service. If you’re adventurous there’s a great little hike of about 5 miles along and above beach. If you were like us, there are dozens of delightful spots to set a spell, enjoy some snacks and watch. We saw gulls in their cast of thousands, cormorants diving, seals and a couple of bald eagles, one perched and one gliding overhead. Very cool.

We came back to the apartment and had dinner, some drinks and good conversation. Great day.

Some random thoughts. Connie and I met a couple on the beach this morning who are traveling by RV. We asked how long they’ve been on the road and they said, “We haven’t had a permanent address for two years.” Took a second for that to sink in. Their last home was in San Diego but when they retired, off they went through all of the mainland US and Canada. We were amazed. What a story! We didn’t ask about family or details on how this works. We just appreciated the story. We know that’s not for us – we actually like to be around family and friends more regularly. But to imagine the possibilities….

I met Vishot and Areev, (not sure of the spelling, I’m afraid) an uncle and nephew, on the beach today. I noticed that Vishot wore a N.Y. Giants hat and congratulated him on his good taste in teams. Turns out that they are from the Minneapolis area and we’re visiting the Olympic Peninsula again with family. It was about that time the seals appeared, one of whom was floating on his back eating a fish he’d just caught. That got Areev going about seaweed and other foods that are naturally disgusting per the wisdom 8-year olds everywhere. Which got us going (uncle and I) about how would you know you don’t like something if you don’t try it? We enjoyed the conversation for a couple hundred yards before they had to catch up with the rest of their family. Loved the conversation but never found out how this Giants fan ended up in Minnesota. Wondering if sushi might lie in Areev’s dining future. Inquiring minds may never know.

Tomorrow it’s off to the Hoh Valley, an unusual temperate rain forest nearby. Can’t wait.

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Sunset, June 29

Morning walk

Rialto Beach

Had a nice easy ride from Olympia to LaPush, WA on the Olympic Peninsula. We covered 160 miles through very lush, very green land. We had the road to ourselves most of th time. It felt a lot like riding through back country Maine. A lot of forests and a lot of clear cutting. Many of the clear-cut tracts look like they’ve been blasted by bombs. It’s clear we need lumber and wood products, but is it possible to take better care of the land after harvest? Just wondering.

Our route took us up US Rte 101 which followed the coast much of the way. We passed through towns that have unlikely names, at least to easterners like us: Humptulips (home to a salmon hatchery), Queets, Kalaloch, and the entrance to the Hoh Valley. We don’t know much about them, but they were part of a lovely ride so we appreciate them as their names stuck in our minds.

We are staying at the Quileute Oceanside Resort on the Quileute Reservation. Our rooms are about 200 yards from the beach. We’re here with my mother-in-law,Pat and my sister, Judy. Pat flew out from Philly and Judy is coming from Humbolt County, CA. We look forward to a number of days together here and on Vancouver Island next week.

The view from our deck is stunning. There at literally hundreds of tons of driftwood trees washed up above the waterline. Their bleached look makes us think of dinosaur bones or some such. There are few swimmers in the water because it’s so cold. But there are islands reaching out from the shore left over from past geological action and the more recent glaciers. The islands act like break waters to calm the surf. Kind of like jetties along the Jersey Shore, only an awe full lot bigger. Tomorrow morning we’re thinking about heading along the shore at low tide to spot tidal pools, if we can. Oh, and fireworks are legal in these parts. We’re kind of hoping the rockets I’ll run out before too long.

Another happy day doing little. We have enjoyed our stay in Olympia, Washington’s State Capital, and celebrated our anniversary. Low key. Restful. Nice. Tomorrow we set out for LaPush on the Olympic Peninsula where we will spend several days with Connie’s mom, Pat, and my big sister, Judy. We should have a beautiful day’s ride today.

We met a couple of wonderful families from Kamloops, BC who are vacationing in the States. We didn’t catch everyone’s name – the kids were moving much too fast after many hours cooped up in the car. We did catch the dad’s names, Max and Mark, who so kindly shared suggestions about what to see and where to ride near their home. Max’s wife (I’m so sorry about missing names) is from Victoria Island and made some suggestions there, too.

We are so fortunate to meet wonderful people like these families. They really brightened our day.

The next few days will find us with little or no cell or internet coverage. We’ll update when we can, though.

Enjoy your day!

Hi! Two simple days to talk about.

Yesterday, Wednesday, was a down day. We enjoyed sleeping late late, got some laundry done, had a visit to the tonsorial emporium to get our locks trimmed (hair cuts), had the bike serviced, and took a nap. (really fine!). Getting the bike serviced was essential. Portland was the last “easy” stop for an oil change and new tires. Though neither was strictly due – both items could have waited a few more miles, good service centers are pretty rare for the next few weeks so it’s better to do this now. So I took “Shiny” to the BMW dealer in Tigard and waited through surgery 😬. They were very quick and professional, but took long enough so I had time to admire lots of more modern fun toys that are even bigger and faster and …. You get the picture. Early supper and early to bed. Lovely day.

We got up this morning ready to rock and roll and …. Had to change our plans. We had hoped to go to Packwood, WA to be near to beautiful Mt. Ranier. But it was snowing. Which means it was nippy. The snow, more than the cold, convinced us to look elsewhere for the day. So we made reservations in Olympia, Capital of Washington Stat, and decided to see what fun we can have there. After working in Trenton all those years we figure it’s a cinch. Let you know how it plays out tomorrow.

On the way here, we rode along the Columbia River gorge, retracing our steps from the 2017 trip. Still stunning! We crossed the Columbia at Cascade Locks on the “Bridge of the Gods”, an old steel bridge that reminds us of the Burlington Bristol Bridge from NJ to PA. It even cost us a buck for the privilege. The view was spectacular both up and down the gorge. We wanted to stop and camp for a bit, but that didn’t seem a great idea mid-span. Oh well.

Once in Washington we entered the little town of Stevenson and turned north on the Wind River Highway to the Gifford-Pinchot Nat’l Forest. Somehow we ended up on a couple of US Forestry Service roads (#90 and #99) which were beautiful, twisty and bumpy, and led us toward the Mount St Helens Nat’l Monument. So we thought it would be cool to see Mount St Helens. The thing about Forestry Service roads is that that are designed for rugged vehicles, like logging trucks and wreckers. Us civilized persons on sophisticated motorized vehicles should beware of hazards, like broken pavement, sinkholes and missing signs alerting the casual driver that there’s broken pavement and sinkholes. Suffice it to say we had fun slaloming between big holes. It was a great time, with Connie laughing in my ear the whole way. It was also about 40*F and raining. Not quite the 95F and humid we hear has overtaken the home front. We’re glad for the extra sweater.

We never did make it to the closest viewpoint, Windy Ridge, because the roads finally became too much. But we made it to Bears Meadow, about 11 miles from Mount St Helens. To give you an idea of the magnitude of the volcanic explosion on May 18, 1980, Bears Meadow was the site where a photographer (missed his name) was able to get a few shots of the initial explosion and then hightail it down the eastern side of the ridge to safety. He and his companions, including a 10 year old named Jo-Jo, just made it out. Everyone closer to the volcano died; nothing lived that was within 8 miles of the mountain. For some reason. 11 miles seemed close enough for today, thank you.

We continued our ride north toward Olympia through wonderfully lush growth, and arrived in town around 6:00. We’d covered about 265 miles in 9 hours over twisty forest roads and were tired and hungry. We stopped at the Safeway for some food and beverages and I can say we are now sated, relaxed and happy. It has been a great day.

Tomorrow, Connie and I will celebrate our anniversary, which is actually Saturday. Then on Saturday we venture out to the Olympic Peninsula to begin the next phase of our journey with Pat, Connie’s Mom, and Judy, my sister. Very exciting!

That’s all for tonight. Be well.

Multnomah Falls as seen from the Columbia River Gorge

The mosses on the trees made parts of the trip seem like a fairy-land.

We don’t know what the heck this thing is.

Love watching the low clouds on the roadway.

This valley was filled with a foot of ash when Mt. St. Helen erupted.

Love the tenacity of life: trees growing from rock. Wow.

Finally, the not so unusual late afternoon storm.

Today we traveled from Sutherlin, OR to Portland, OR on Interstate 5. It was a bit traumatic after so many days when we were the only vehicle on the road. We arrived at our Air BnB a bit stressed and needful of solitude. Unfortunately we had to venture out again for groceries and liquor. It was a taxing journey, but we comforted ourselves with some Starbucks coffee while hovering over the bike at a Safeway grocery store. The only photo I have depicts our trauma.

Thankfully our Air BnB is secluded!

Because there are no glowing descriptions of our travels, I thought I would share some insight into how we ramble.

People always ask how we can pack for a long trip in such little space. Bikers, bicyclists and backpackers around the world know you don’t need to bring much on a journey. After the first few years, we started buying hiking clothing which is durable, doesn’t need ironing and washes up easily. Below is an a sampling of what is on our packing list:

2 pair of hiking pants

3 short sleeve wicking/odor resistant shirts

One lightweight long sleeve shirt

Thermal shirt

Thermal bottoms

A Smart Wool pullover

7 pair of underwear

3 silk sock liners

3 wool lightweight hiking socks

1 midweight fleece

1 lightweight packable rain jacket

1 hat

Lightweight riding gloves

Heavyweight riding gloves

Toiletries/Medications

A little makeup for me

Bug spray (need more)

Sunscreen

Collapsible bowls and cups

Reusable “sporks”

A paring knife

Lightweight lunch bag

Reusable sandwich bag

Small container of dish soap

Laundry line for air drying

Tide stick

8 Laundry soap pods

PacSafe bag for valuables (haven’t used yet)

Tiny tripod

Camera

Apple SD card reader

Extra SD cards

Small flashlights

Anker 5 port charger and charging cords (the Squid)

iPads

iPhones

Mini keyboard (not needed)

2 small packable/collapsible “backpacks”

Spot GPS tracker

Paper maps

Highlighters (still wish we had)

Index cards

Playing cards

Bike manual

Sena Communicator manual

Bike tool kit

Tire kit

First Aid kit

Nalgene water bottle (broke at Crater Lake. Now we have a pink one with the Crater Lake logo)

Thermal bottle for water or coffee ☺️

Walking sticks

Tie downs downs for the ferry rides

There you have it. All of this fits in the side cases and top case. And we’ve been warm when needed in our 45F days.

The walking sticks are in a roll bag on top of the top case.

Honestly, I can’t say I need anything more. I love the freedom that comes with having so little. It’s amazing how much stuff we have that we really don’t need.

This is s 2-day note because we didn’t have internet from yesterday until this afternoon. It’s hard to imagine, isn’t it? Being somewhere that neither cell nor WiFi can reach? Not too long ago there were no such things. Messages were in writing by mail or by phone if you could find a phone booth and had enough dimes. You laugh, but phone booths were sometimes pretty rare and relatively expensive. Being out of touch for days at a time in wilderness areas was usual and no big deal. If you wanted news or the sports page, you found a general store somewhere and bought a news paper, invariably local and sometimes a day or too past. Or maybe not. Getting away from it all meant something different back in the day. Living without social media was normal because there simply wasn’t any. You didn’t play Pogo, you pulled out a deck of cards and played war or canasta – with your brother or your spouse. And the nights were really dark and very quiet. Imagine. But I digress. Again.

We were unable to connect for a couple of days but here we are. On Sunday morning we went to worship with Laura Lee at the UCC church in Medford where she is pastor. It was wonderful reconnecting with our past: Hank and Laura Lee had worshipped together many times years ago in Willingboro, NJ where they were both pastors. Her folks are enthusiastic and fun and committed to their community without pretense or artifice and very refreshing. It was a wonderful visit.

When it was time to move on, we rode to Crater Lake, a large water filled volcanic crater in the Cascades that has challenged imaginations for thousands of years. The story is fascinating.

The Cascade Mountain Range stretches from British Columbia to Northern California and has grown as the result of the collision of two crustal (tectonic) plates on the earth’s surface. The plate to the west under the ocean is denser than the plate on which the continent rests. So the oceanic plate is forced deep into the earth’s interior where it meets very high temperatures and pressures that melt solid rock. Over the past 7 million years or so, the Cascade Mountains have been forced up, in many cases as volcanoes. The process is still going on: you may remember the eruption of Mount St. Helens in May 1980 when it blew off its top and scorched thousands of acres of forest. Something similar happened to create Crater Lake.

The volcano that became Crater Lake called Mount Mazama built up gradually over 400,000 years to create a mountain about 12,000 feet high. About 7,700 years ago, a powerful eruption powered by expanding gas and rising magma blew huge amounts of ash and pumice from the top of mountain. As the magma chamber below the top emptied, the mountain could not support its own weight and collapsed, forming a deep bowl, or caldera at the top. Minor eruptions later sealed up most cracks in the bottom, making the deep basin able to be filled with centuries worth of rain and snow. There are no streams that run into the lake so there’s no sediment. As a result the lake is very clear and the most pristine blue you can imagine. The caldera is 1,943 feet deep, making Crater Lake the deepest lake in the US and the 9th deepest lake in the world. Wizard Island rises 793 feet above the surface of the water and is itself a volcano. And the area is still geologically active, so it may change again some day. (A little ominous music in the soundtrack.)

To ride the roads and walk the trails, it’s possible to see the telltales of how this lake came to be. And it’s amazing to realize the power that nature unleashed to blow many square miles of earth into the surrounding region. It’s a story that adds to the beauty and wonder of this magnificent park. We find it so beautiful. The water has the deepest, clearest blues imaginable: sapphire, cobalt, royal blue, indigo and more – they’re all there.

We left the park (reluctantly) to head north toward Portland. Our route took us on the Rogue Umpqua Scenic Byway. That’s a name I will not soon forget! There are 17 lovely waterfalls to enjoy on the Rogue River. We stopped at two: Clearwater Falls and Tokatee Falls. Connie got some great shots. There’s a little walking involved and well worth it. These falls are set about by towering fir and pine trees and have the clearest, cleanest water. We so enjoyed these stops on our ride that led to Sutherlin, OR for the night. After a couple of days eating fat, we picked up some salads and light snacks for our repast. Maybe a dip in the pool? And then a glad good night.

Goodnight.

Hank and our friend, Laura Lee Kent, who married us 29 years ago this week.

Crater Lake (formerly Mount Mazama)

Hank standing next to a snow plow marker.

Falls along the Rogue Umpqua Scenic Byway

Clearwater Falls

The pine trees are so tall!

Tokatee Falls

Where’s the beef?

Our small achievement!