Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park, Kanab, UT

We had a short range day. Rode a little out of town to the Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park to see what the hubbub was about. After paying a whopping $4 entrance fee, we parked and went onto the dunes. It was fascinating. The color was as advertised – such a striking pink caused by just the right amount of iron oxide (yes, rust) bonded to the silicates in the sand. The texture was as fine as any beach sand we’ve seen. We walked out onto some semi-stable dunes that had very hardy plants that had taken root and quite a few tiny lizards scooting about from bush to bush leaving serpentine behind them. Beginning a few yards further out and extending for miles in every direction were towering dunes that the wind kicked plumes of sand down range. Some of the dunes were open to ATV’s, and there were kids sand (snow?) boarding down the tallest dune on several sides. Just like the winter equivalent, the rides down were quick, but the slog back uphill was quite a lot of work. We were happy to watch, thanks.

We had lunch at a camp site in a grove of ponderosa pines. It was calm and peaceful place. Campsites were only $5 a night and collection was on the honor system – a collection box served as toll taker for the spot. Not something you find in NJ.

This afternoon was taken with packing, hair cuts and a nap. My barber was Ken Adams who served as an Army Ranger and medic in Vietnam. Stories he had aplenty for his captive audience. That would be me. A 15 minute trim took an hour and a half because he got so caught up in his tale he’d leave off with scissors. Snip, talk talk talk, snip, talk, so forth. But such a happy, energetic man. And his tales of growing up on a Utah cattle ranch and his time on patrol were really engaging. Best of all, he did a great job on my hair. On the way out, I thanked him for his service, his tales, and had to ask him how much. If you ever need an urgent haircut in Kanab, he’s your man.

Connie also tended to her coiffure but was done before me. We got some awesome ice cream and headed back to get ready for tomorrow when we head for Cortez, CO. The good news is it will be a beautiful day. The bad news is it’s about 300 miles on Memorial Day weekend. Not so bad, actually: we’ll be riding through beautiful country.

A reflection. When you think of a desert, what do you see in your mind’s eye? I always thought only of cacti, hot sand, boulders, rattlers and vultures, but an otherwise lifeless and bleak earth.

We have seen so much desert in Texas, Arizona, New Mexico, Utah and Nevada. And there is so much diversity to desert terrain. Around Las Vegas thousands of square miles appear pounded flat and lifeless from the scorching sun. That fit my preconceptions. Here in Utah and the parts of AZ, NM and TX we’ve seen huge swaths of desert that are hot and dry, but also filled with life, from scrub to cacti to hardy trees and wildlife. Dry washes are common, indicating that at least some rainfall hits the earth. Some areas even have sufficient forage for cattle and bison herds. Horses, donkeys and mules (we assume part of domestic herds) are more common than you’d think. Yet this is still “desert”. I’m sure many of you already knew how diverse desert ecologists can be. For Connie and me, it has been eye opening. We are so fortunate to have our vantage from the back of the bike.

Well, tomorrow we leave this wonderful villa in Kanab, UT and forge onto Cortez.

Bryce Canyon

To Bryce we went and it was magnificent. It’s about 75 miles north of Kanab through some really diverse terrain. Lots of desert scrub and lots of lush, green pastures where streams are close. We saw horse farms and riding ranches, grazing land for cattle and sheep, and an amazing amount of timber, particularly as we got close to our destination. We parked the bike, skinnied out of our riding gear and caught the park shuttle up Canyon. We got off at the top spot, Bryce Point and hiked down the rim trail to Sunset Point. After lunch we headed down the Navajo Trail to the intersection with the Queens Garden Trail and back to the rim.  
Peripherals: its dusty and sometimes steep, but doable for retirees who take their time; we filled our water bottles a couple of times and glad we did to cut the dust; our walking sticks were an awesome help, sometimes to assist the change in grade but often just to give confidence on sketchy ground. (Again, thanks Tim and Dave, and Connie for insisting we find room on the bike! I will never doubt you again.)

The view from the rim is magnificent: looking down on the Amphitheater and the hundreds of hoodoos is amazing. But walking among them more than a thousand feet below is both wondrous and intimate. The process of freeze/thaw that creates the hoodoos and changes them noticeably within the course of a human lifetime is so fast in geologic time. And they play to our imaginations. The Queen’s Garden was named for a formation that appeared to be Queen Victoria astride some animal. Maybe a charger, maybe an elephant, maybe a griffin … It’s wonderful. We saw one that is named Thor’s Hammer. There were formations I thought looked like knights dressing their lines for a charge, bishops engaged in dispute, and one that looked like ET. There will be some pics of these fabulous rocks. Someone said the hoodoos were a form of Rorschach Ink Blot test. Whatever. Lots of fun. Bryce was my #1 destination and it did not disappoint.

Oh, just because … we hiked over 6-1/2 miles today, with 1,000 foot elevation change. We were thinking of Bob Francisco and wondered how his day went. Just saying.

We met some more interesting folks. Jorrit, who is visiting with his wife and very young family (18 months and 3 years) is from Delft, the Netherlands. They are blown away by the beauty of our American Parks and Monuments. (He does miss his local beer, though).

A Sheriff’s Deputy we met a few days ago named Eric Holman was taking a break from patrol in Garfield County near Bryce. I will only mention that he had the stereotypical cop snack in his hand at checkout. However, when Bob and I thanked him for his service and wished him a safe shift, he happily took time to talk with us. He has nearly 20 years on the force and is responsible for training some newer officers. It’s clear from his demeanor that there is iron mixed with his kind sociability. (Reminds me of Ben and Jeff Smith.) He clearly likes his job, and recognizes that he sees people on their worst days, not their best. He is usually posted on road patrol in the western part of the county. To give you an idea of the size of his patrol area, it took two hours one day to drive to back up another officer on a call. The eastern side covers a number of parks, so those officers are heavily involved with search and rescue. Eric would rather drive, it seems. From what I can gather, his county is roughly the size of Burlington and Monmouth Counties combined.

We met a couple from Knoxville, TN.  They were about out age and kept us company during the ascent to the rim.  We played leap frog and pointed out interesting formations and ideas for great photos.

Well, that’s it for tonight. (Read: we’re bushed.) More fun tomorrow.

We decided this was a memorial to “E.T.”  Phone home.

The “Queen”

Another photo of the National Monument:  Grand Staircase Escalante.  This monument covers a huge area in Southern Utah.  For the past two weeks, it seems that around every bend in the road, the grand monument is in front of us.

We wimped out today and decided to rest up and take care of some logistical chores. The nap was so decadent. Tomorrow morning we head back to Bryce. We’re looking to hike most of two trails that circumnavigate the amphitheater and its attendant HOODOOS! Lunch and snacks and water are already packed and ready in the fridge. Just need to gather our stuff and go. My guess is there will be some wonderful pics tomorrow.

We had a chance to talk with our hosts today. They are wonderful people and they have provided a comfortable and lovely place to stay. They also have some great ideas on what to do and where to do them. If you come this way, let us know and we’ll give contact info. Generally, Kanab is a great place to visit.

That’s all folks. 😀

We had a busy morning in Las Vegas, got the bike serviced and set out back to our “villa” in Kanab. It was 100 degrees when we left. Stop and go riding under the beating sun was somewhat less than thrilling. It is part of the experience – sometimes a ride will feel like less than a five star event due to weather or traffic or whatever. Still worth it. Today I consoled myself with memories of the cool, refreshing ads for York Peppermint Patties. (Remember?) No apologies here – it’s our blog and I can be corny if I want to. But it was so hot that we didn’t take time to set up Spot (GPS) Had to get moving and stay moving. (We covered about 250 miles yesterday and today.)

As we climbed out of the desert plain toward Utah and the higher altitudes of the Colorado Plateau, we luxuriated in the drop in temp. Almost 10 degrees by the time we reached 6,000 feet 160 miles out. Read: we were hot for a long time. We stopped for a cool down several times in shady spots. A Chevron station actually had a tree to pull under. Now that’s luxury! We rolled into the Villa as the sun was lowering and treated ourselves to cool showers. Bliss!

Tomorrow, we’re planning to head back to Bryce Canyon to do some hiking and (maybe) hang around to sunset. I want to see more of those hoodoos. Can’t wait.

Now to laundry and supper and a cold beverage, though not necessarily in that order. A terrific ending to a neat day.

Connie:  “I have no pictures which adequately capture the desolation.  Nor would any photo capture the desert heat.  It’s like being wrapped in a hot towel.  The moving air only feels like a new towel is being wrapped around you.  It evoked in me a sense of unease until I recognized why and could reason it out.  We weren’t going to end up dehydrated and mummified by the side of the road!  We had water.  There was a constant flow of traffic.  We would be ok if the bike broke down.”

Connie: “Wanted to add in this photo of the power lines heading into Vegas for any Stephen King fans.”

Valley of Fire, Nevada State Park and Las Vegas 

Bob, Val and Pat got underway home today. We had such a good time together! Lots of memories to share. 
We headed out toward Las Vegas (Lost Wages) to see the city all lit up and get the bike serviced tomorrow. On the way, we stopped at the Valley of Fire, an Arizona State Park to see .. wait for it … more red rock. Though this is a deep, fire pit red that seems to glow at mid-day. There are contrasting domes and strata of silicate rock that are bone white that make the red just pop. And the tectonic forces that forced the layers of rock to shift shift millions of years ago created fantastic shapes with unlikely names like the Seven Sisters, the Beehives and the Elephant. Gorgeous. And the ride was a lot of fun winding through breaks in the rock formations, lots of curves and changes in elevation in this dry and very hot desert.

We headed for LV early in the afternoon and got a taste for the back roads here. We found the roads appear to lead straight away into the distance. It’s a bit deceiving, though. Our line of sight extended up to 10 miles, but the road managed to take unexpected dips through dry washes and through seemingly modest breaks in the terrain that didn’t appear until we were right on top of them. Wonderful to have long term goals, but it pays to pay attention to what’s right in front of you. (Moral for the day.)

We’re staying at the Luxor at the base of the Strip at Tim’s suggestion. We’re in the main pyramid so our room’s ceiling slopes like the second floor of a cape cod. The view is nice, though I keep forgetting to duck.

We got cleaned up and had supper at the House of Blues a bit before the evening rush. Felt like real retirees looking for the early bird special – no discount meals but it was Happy Hour. We call that a win. Then we went for a stroll up the Strip toward the Bellagio, looking forward to the fountains. They did not disappoint. Check out the pics Connie took. The reality is just like the final scene from Oceans Eleven. Thanks, Tim, for your help in planning.

We walked back to our room and have our feet up now. After so much time in quiet surroundings, we found that we didn’t have a great appetite for all the noise and general clamor for attention. We did not play any games and thereby contribute to the general accounts of MGM which owns this hotel. So we still have cash for breakfast. Much more important.

We met some interesting people, especially Ben and Freeman from San Francisco who showed us a wonderful exhibition on the theme of the Japanese Tea Garden in the Bellagio’s atrium. We shamelessly promoted Dan’s restaurant in SF and his clientele may grow by a couple.

That’s all for tonight. Sleep well.

Approaching Hurricane, Utah.  The view left us breathless.

Entering the Virgin River Gorge.  After we passed through the gorge, we were in hot, dry desert.

Las Vegas – although it really is obvious we aren’t at a National Park!

Bryce Canyon today. In my view, this is the most wondrous sight yet. I don’t have words to describe the wonder of this Park. The weather was a little cool, but much more comfortable than earlier days. We drove about 2 hours to the park entrance and took a shuttle up to the farthest and highest (8300’) overlook, Bryce Point. I got to see “my” hoodoos at last. These are wondrous columns of rock that have been formed by erosion over millions of years. The process of creation continues with each rain storm, snow melt and even strong winds. In an area called the “Amphitheater”, there are thousands of hoodoos. (Love that word!) Didn’t see any resemblance to people I know, I’m sorry to say. Though the ordered ranks reminded me of pictures of the Terracotta Army depicting the armies of China’s first emperor, or maybe a stuffy upper crust audience at Carnegie Hall. (There is about that much motion.)  

We visited both Sunset and Sunrise Points for more perspectives that we found inspiring. Connie and I are planning to return later this coming week to do a little hiking into the Canyon. For today, we contented ourselves with the view from the top.

A couple of suggestions. First, get here. To Bryce, to Zion, to the Grand Canyon, all of it. Just get here. Second, the National Park System offers annual passes for a paltry $80, which gets a carload or a family into any Park for a year. Worth every penny, and helps support the upkeep and improvements needed in the parks. Normal cost is $30 per car. Third, if the park offers shuttles, take advantage. It makes a difference if you don’t have to fuss with your vehicle. And the cost is included with the pass.

Take a gander at the pics. We had several photographers, including Val and Pat. Beautiful. And better than words.

Tomorrow Val, Bob and Pat head home. Connie and I are heading to “Lost Wages” for a night on the town and some service on the bike. More tomorrow. Have a good week.

North Rim Grand Canyon National Park

Off today to the north rim of the Grand Canyon. (Amazing pics provided.) All five of us piled in Bob and Val’s rental to make the 2-hour drive from Kanab. (You may have noticed we haven’t ridden the bike very much these past few days.) 
We arrived at the Park’s Visitor Center and got oriented fairly quickly. It was very cool, so layers were welcome. Pat was especially well prepared with fleece and parkas (yes, plural) and was so excited to get going with camera in hand. This was a lifetime dream that was coming true! The Park Rangers and other employees were kind and considerate as we made our way to the main lodge. And the splendor of that first view at over 8200 feet. Have I mentioned that the Canyon is a nautical mile deep, and 18 miles wide? The Bright Angel Trail that Connie and I walked to see the sunrise from the South Rim was visible as it traced its way toward the North Rim. So small from our vantage over 2,000 feet higher from the south. It gave Connie and me the determination to walk it together on our next visit. But I digress.

The lodge is magnificent, comfortable and provides a wonderful panorama, from the far rim nearly 20 miles away, to the brilliant outcropping and ledges within yards of where we stood. We all loved the spot. We think Pat wants to buy it and move in. It is less crowded and makes for a more intimate setting.

Most of us made our way to the Bright Angel Overlook that feels like an eagle’s aerie above sheer cliffs. The trail is short and often steep, and there are few guard rails to give one confidence. We took our lovely time, thank you. So worth the trip. The word of the day is majestic. Some youngsters passed us on their mountain jogs along the narrow path. Show-offs. But I digress. Again.

The weather warmed some, so we shed our outer layers. Some of us more than others. Later in the afternoon, we headed to an overlook not far away by car, called Point Imperial, which is the highest point in the Park at 8,803 feet and provides a 270 degree view of the Painted Desert to the north through the majority of the eastern arm of the Canyon. The instrument of the canyon’s creation, the Colorado River, isn’t directly visible from that spot. But you can see it’s impressive work. There’s a spire of white stone that thrusts up from a mesa directly in front of us called Mt Hayden that kept snagging my eye. Pat found herself a strategic spot to perch and just soaked it all in. We all fell in love. You would too, if you find a way to visit.

It’s remarkable how many visitors from other countries come to our National Parks. We met folks from the Netherlands, Germany, Japan, China, Belgium, Italy, and so many more. What do they know that so many Americans don’t? Teddy Roosevelt and Congress knew what they were doing by creating the National Park System. I, for one, really want our grandchildren to be able to get out to enjoy this immensely important national resource. (Shameless political plug here.)

Majestic is the word of the day. Pat is over the moon. And we each carried our special mental pictures and impressions as we drove back. A real day of memories. We’re having the time of our lives.

Tomorrow, Bryce Canyon.

Xxxx

Kanab, Grand Staircase Escalante, Lake Powel, Glen Canyon Dam, Horseshoe Bend, Colorado River, Vermillion Cliffs

Had a wonderful day exploring south of us. First on the tour was a Bureau of Land Management visitors center for the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument where we learned a lot about the region in a very short time. The Informational Ranger is retired military and now has his dream job. He was really pleased to point out a number of fossilized remains of dinosaurs and other ancient creatures found in the area from before 90 million years ago when the Colorado Plateau was a shallow ocean that divided North America. And detailed research by paleontologist and geologists has only just begun in earnest. A lot of good knowledge will be forthcoming. Amazing. 
Then off to Lake Powell and the Glen Canyon Dam, the second largest hydroelectric dam in the States. Although the level of the lake is relatively low after years of below average rainfall, it was a still a gorgeous deep blue from our perch at Wahweap overlook. The blue channel cut by the Colorado river is a stark contrast in this desert setting. Very striking.  

Then we had some fun trying to find some other sights around Page and got ourselves woefully turned around. About the time folks started getting jangly, we pulled into the first available lot to have our lunch. It was a Walmart of all places and we were nestled among a myriad of campers. Yes, Walmart. And yes, I got us lost. Pictures not included.

Once fed and equilibrium was restored, we wandered to the Horseshoe Bend, a 270 degree loop in the Colorado some miles below the dam. A half-mile hike from a parking lot leads you to the cliffs about 1,000 feet above the river. Rafting tours meander their way down this placid stretch the Colorado and I’m sure they were gawking at us as hundreds leaned over the cliff edges to gawk from above. Again, the power of moving water to cut so deeply through sandstone is amazing, even though it took a very long time.

Further south, we saw the Vermillion Cliffs, truly impressive escarpments of the most beautiful vibrant red stone. Yes, we have become very fond of stone. Who’d guess?

As we continued down river, we found an old homestead close to the road that was amazing. The cliffs are closer to the road and over the years huge chunks of rock have fallen, some the size of a cape cod house. The settlers, whoever they were, used overhangs in the fallen rock as roofs and built walls, storage areas, and even a fireplace with chimney around the covered ground to make a home. Makeshift barns were made the same way behind the primary structure using timbers, rocks and mortar. It didn’t appear to be close to any arable land or other means for making a living, yet the builders (a family, prospectors?) had the ingenuity and determination to use what they had available to build a life on that spot. Who were these folks? What brought them there? We are left to the workings of our imaginations.

We drove further south to Rt. 89A to head through the southern end of the monument and ultimately back to Kanab. We stopped at one scenic overlook and met a cheerful man named Matt. He and his wife were taking a break from their drive back home in Montana and were giving their huge dog, Fiona, a chance to do her business. Fiona is an 80 pound puppy who is half St. Bernard and half Full-sized poodle. Matt is a 70+ snowbird who winters in Arizona and summers about 60 miles north of Missoula, MT and a little south of Glacier Nat’l Park. He shared that he is a volunteer fireman up north and a volunteer with the local police department down south, and finds deep satisfaction in helping out. We had a wonderful time meeting him.

Our drive back to Kanab took us near the north entrance to Grand Canyon Nat’l Park, our destination tomorrow is the North Rim. As we climbed to nearly 8,000 feet, the desert terrain gave way to Ponderosa pines and rich undergrowth. Wonderfully cooler. And from the high altitude from the south, the Grand Staircase was a majestic vista that took our breath away. I wish I had the capacity to put what we saw and the emotions we felt on paper. Words fail me.

We’re back to base, fed, watered and ready to face another day. What a wonderful life.

Zion National Park

We went to Zion Nat’l Park today and took the Zion shuttle tour up the Canyon over the course of Six hours. We ran out of superlatives pretty quickly. “Breath taking”, “Majestic”, and simply, “Wow” hold pride of place. We spent time gawking at the Grotto, Weeping Rock and especially the Temple of Sinawava stations, blown away by the beauty of the sheer canyon walls, the plant life hanging tenaciously to every crevice and crack, and the Virgin River that has cut its way through millions of years of sedimentary rock to create this brilliant record of nature’s power over the earth. The Temple of Sinawava is an amphitheater 3,000 feet deep delineated by sheer cavern walls close to the top of the Canyon. “Sinawava” is the Paiute name of one of a god of creation. It’s easy to see how this place could inspire such awe.  

It’s possible to hike to the very top of the canyon by treading through the river itself as it enters a narrow defile. We did not take the challenge, not least because the air temp was 47 degrees, and the water was even cooler. We left such feats to younger, more intrepid explorers.

The road into the park has two significant tunnels, the longest being over a mile long. They were completed in 1930 with a lot of work performed by the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps), a Depression Era public works program. (Extra credit if you can describe the program and name the president in office.) The tunnel has a number of ‘windows’ that provide quick, beautiful panoramas of the Canyon – she posted one here. At the end of the tour we were tired but very full in our hearts and minds.

On the way home we stopped at the Iron Horse pub/saloon in Kanab. The burgers were humongous and very good. They have a little old west street display out front. We caught a pic of a couple of the more sketchy denizens for your illumination.

Tomorrow we head for Page, AZ and Lake Powell. Time for beauty rest, which I for one really need. (See accompanying illustrative photo.) Have a good night.

Kanab, Utah

Nothing happened today. It’s cold and rainy here in Kanab. Several destinations have rougher weather today. Bruce Canyon even had some snow.
 Besides which, Val, Bob and Pat had a 24 hour travel day yesterday.

Choosing comfort as the better part of valor, we stayed in, ate and napped. Decadent day! Tomorrow we’ll head back to Zion Nat Park for more splendor. More to come.