From Groveland, CA to San Francisco, CA

We had a more leisurely day today.  It was a short (er) ride to San Francisco.  We arrived this afternoon and spent some a nice afternoon evening visit with Hank’s nephew, Danny and his wife, Alexandra, and their two young children, Julian and Louise.  It’s late now and Hank is conked out.  But I didn’t want anyone to worry if we missed a blog post.

Tomorrow we head up the California coastline in Highway 1.  It’s supposed to be one of the loveliest scenic rides in the country.  So we’ll have more stories and photos tomorrow night.

Sleep well!

A beautiful day! We got out at 7:30 for the 45 minute drive to Yosemite Park. With various meandering for gas and sight seeing, we arrived a little before 9:00 and found a place to park at Sentinel Bridge. It wasn’t a snap because a LOT of other folks had the idea of coming early. The first sight that greeted us was the glorious Yosemite Falls, which cascades over 2,400 feet in two cataracts. Because the spring runoff from the snow pack is at its height, we were treated to a truly breathtaking sight. We couldn’t tear our eyes away, or take enough pictures, or think of anything else for a time. (Pics attached.)   
Eventually we made our way to the shuttle stop, but had some trouble getting a lift because they were all full. A LOT of folks had the same idea we had. So we moved the bike further up Valley and set out for a hike on the Mist Trail toward the Vernal Falls, about 3 miles round trip with a goodly change in elevation. We enjoyed meeting folks along the way and studiously ignored the trail bunnies who jogged by with youthful vigor. Show offs! At last we chugged our way to a bridge built across the raging Merced River. The water thundered underneath us down the steep, rocky incline. The river was so full it diverged in places to foam and eddy in side channels. Again we were mesmerized and awed. The mist cooled the air and was a grateful balm on this hot day. Wonderful!

As we hiked back to our bike, we saw a number of falls that dropped out of the rock faces that towered around us. We got a good view of famous formations like El Capitan, the Half Dome, and the Chapel. If you ever have a chance, watch the PBS series, The National Parks, created by Ken Burns (who did series on the Civil War and others.) You’ll get a feeling for the genius behind the founding of the National Park System, and appreciate why many consider Yosemite as its crown jewel. We did.

A short ride (30 minutes is short by California standards) brought is to the trailhead to the Merced Grove, the smallest of three sites where giant sequoias grow. This hike was a bit over 3 miles round trip along a steep trail, but at the far end 25 mammoth trees await your pleasure. Connie has pics that in some small way convey just how big they are. By rough estimation, one tree appeared to be about 300 feet tall. We tried to gauge its diameter and estimate its about 15 feet in across. That makes it about 45 or 46 feet in circumference. Giant and stately. And the quiet that filled the glade leaves one filled with both peace and awe. We met a wonderful couple, Len and Ann, who live nearby and come there often. When we remarked on this wonder, they expressed that they feel blessed to have this wonder in their backyard.

We feel blessed, too. To be in a position to make a trip like this and see such wonders. The world is filled with beauty and wonder. To see it with open eyes and an open heart is to know inspiration that dwarfs the sometimes tawdriness of the daily grind. It’s all around us. Connie found a quote from John Muir, the founding genius of America’s park system. I’ll close with it tonight.

“This grand show is eternal. It is always sunrise somewhere; the dew is never all dried at once; a shower is forever falling; vapor is ever rising. Eternal sunrise, eternal sunset, eternal dawn and gloaming, on sea and continents and islands, each in its turn, as the round earth rolls.”

― John Muir, John of the Mountains: The Unpublished Journals of John Muir

Merced Grove of Sequoias in Yosemite 

From Minden, NV to Groveland, CA, outside of Yosemite National Park 

We left Minden, NV this morning on the way to Groveland, CA, just outside Yosemite Park. As we loaded the bike, there was an antique car show just across the street in the town square. I am not an expert on cars, new or old. But I can read and there were Rolls and Dusenbergs, and a plethora of vintage cars, all shined up with proud owners close at hand. Among car lovers in the know, the level of lust was palpable. We enjoyed from a discreet distance.  
On the way out, we also got a last look and some pics of the snow capped Sierras from the east. Then we rode up into them for a more intimate encounter on Rt 88 which took us through Carson Pass (alt. 8400 feet) and some slightly lower roads. At points the snow pack was still 10 feet high at roadside, and a number of lakes are still frozen even this late in the Spring. The sights and nice twisty roads made the trip over the summit a lot of fun.

Just over the California state line, everything suddenly became green. Seriously. From semi-arid to lush in about ½ a mile. Aspens, ponderosa pines, and loads of sprouting bushes and grass. Gorgeous. We stopped for lunch a little below Kirkwood, CA and feasted on a breakfast burritos at the newly opened cafe, “The Chatterbox.” We met another biker, Todd, who was riding back home to Cali from Phoenix with his new bike – retired Police bike with “police” emblazoned all over. He cheerfully announced he gets a lot of attention when he rides by. Wonder why.

We picked up Rt 49 which led us a merry chase up and down a number of mountain ridges with switch backs aplenty. The road signs cautioned we take the curves at about 20 MPH and rightly so. Very fun but we had to pay attention. Historically, Rt 49 was built to service the original 49ers (1849 gold rush) who mined the area for gold and silver. Silver was more common over the area we rode. Almost sorry we didn’t stop to stake a claim.

After a wild ride on RT. 120, we arrived in Groveland to a beautiful AirBnB complete with hot tub and all the accoutrements. Although we only rode about 160 miles, they were fairly intense and the stop is very welcome. Tomorrow we plan to visit Yosemite Valley and take a hike to Merced Grove which contains magnificent sequoias. We’ll be up with the dawn to beat the crowds who typically flood the park. So for now, good night and good luck.

Snow and frozen lakes in the high Sierra mountains.

The very windy RT. 120 into the Yosemite area.

Groceries for the next two days.  (Alcohol not pictured)

The bluest flowers I’ve ever seen…

Ely, NV to Minden, NV

We had a bit of late start this morning because we met the nicest couple from Hurricane, UT, Mike and Deidre.  We found conversation easy and we talked away more than an hour.  We learned about the area in which they spent their lives and raised their kids.  Mike’s Dad was part of the CCC group that build RT 89, a road we traveled quite a bit during our stay in Southern Utah.  They were in Ely to revisit a favorite antique rail and steam engine train.  Very cool.  Of course we told them about our favorite game, “Rail Baron.”

We had a good long ride from Ely, to Minden, NV, south of Carson City. We covered 340 mostly hot miles across desert plains and 10 picturesque mountain passes bearing names like Pinto, and Robinson and Pancake, and traveled roughly the trails of the Pony Express. Our route was US 50, called by Life magazine in the 70’s “the loneliest road in America. We believe it. There were very few cars and about 80 to 110 miles between gas stations. When we first entered Nevada yesterday, we heard about a stamp book put out to promote the towns along Rt. 50. The goal is to stop in these little towns at the museum, chamber offices, or select shops to get stamps proving you had traveled there. We managed to get 5 stamps and hope to reap the prize: a letter from Nevada’s governor congratulating us on our perseverance and good taste to visit Nevada on this road. We suspect that it also forces travelers to notice the multitude of casinos that tempt the unwary. Whatever. We enjoyed and will reach for the prize. Did I mention it was hot?  
From east to west, we crossed the Schell Creek Range, White Pine Range, Diamond Mountains, Monitor Range, Toquima Range, Toyabe Mountains, Shoshone Mountains, the Desatoya Mountains, and two others. Towns include Eureka, Austin, Cold Springs, Fallon and Dayton, all small towns founded on the verge of the huge valleys between ranges. We have some nice pics.

We were so impressed how big the valleys are, up to 50 miles or more with the road slashing across as straight as an arrow. Some miles were filled with little more than hot sand, others boasted scrub and small trees, some miles were even lush with green grass from recent rains. We saw small numbers of cows spread across square miles, and even a small herd of wild horses. We followed a pickup trailing a speed boat, which seemed a bit out of place in the desert. He turned off finally at this beautiful patch of blue water, Lahonton Reservoir. Amazing. And fun.

Tonight we’re staying in an AirBnB in Minden. The founders named the town after their home of Minden, Germany in 1906. It’s cute, pretty even, and is nestled under the east slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, which got around 60 feet of snow this past winter. So the view of snow capped peaks is wonderful. Word is that some of the mountain lakes are still frozen. We will have to choose our route carefully tomorrow as we make our way toward Yosemite. But that’s for tomorrow.
Our “Survival Guide”

Scenes from the day …

A mid-day respite from desert terrain.

Dust devils are cool and plentiful in Nevada!

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Our completed map.  We collected 5 of the 8 stamps which earn us the title of “Survivors of the Lonliest Road in America.”

Moab, UT to Ely, NV via the “Loneliest Road in America”

Hi, again. Just a short note that it was a long day’s ride along exceedingly straight roads. We both got excited when a road sign indicated a curve, maybe even cautioning drivers to slow to 60. The mountains we saw in the far distance were a nice backdrop. For straight roads. Very straight. I may be repeating myself. 
We’re spending the night in Ely, Nevada (pronounced “eelie”) having covered nearly 400 miles. Our total now is 5,100 for the trip. This town is a cute place, nestled between mountain ranges. A couple of notes:

There is so much space out here that even small houses have lots larger than NJ’s McMansions.
There are few opportunities to recycle. Recycling seems to be a foreign concept. Of course, since land is cheap, so would landfills be cheap. We find this very jarring. No one out here blinks an eye. 

And wasteful. Portions here are huge and seem more than most people could finish so much goes to waste. More even than a Jersey diner. Same with water use. We’re used to thinking about conservation and recycling.

People are generally very willing and happy to talk and get to know one another. Even in supermarkets while your ice cream is melting. Gotta know what’s going on with the kids/spouse/parents, so forth. Have learned to take deep breaths while in line.

Tomorrow it’s off to Minden, NV, another way point to Yosemite, about 350 miles away. The map seems to show a lot more straight road. I’m sure I’ll dream of Olympic slalom. See you tomorrow on the blog.

At 50 miles …

100 miles …

150 miles …

200 miles…

250 miles …

300 miles …

325 miles …

350 miles …

380 miles … just shy of our destination.

Dead Horse Point State Park, Arches National Park and Scenic RT 128 near Moab, UT

 A wonderful day. We hit the road before sunrise to catch the sights at Dead Horse Point State Park. We got there before the gates were open at 6 and arrived at a great lookout just before the sun’s rays hit the canyon walls. Just beautiful. Though much smaller than Grand Canyon, we got the feel of the Colorado River cutting through the gorge 2,000 feet below. The river has been cutting through the rock since the Colorado Plateau was thrust up around 10 million years ago. The oldest exposed rock at the river’s edge is the Rico strata, approximately 275 million years old. Amazing. We overheard many conversations all expressing pleasure at the sight – one in German and another with a woman in a jazzy who wheeled up just in time. We had our breakfast while basking in the early morning light.

We saddle up again and left the Park around 7:30. Still no one at the entrance gate. Guess we got a freebie from the State of Utah. Feel a little guilty. But not so guilty that we couldn’t enjoy going to Arches Nat’l Park. (No one at the gate there either, though we have an annual pass courtesy of a nice Christmas gift.)

We rode deep into the park to visit the “Windows” formations. The lot was already full but there was a sliver of space for the bike. We hiked to the double arches about a ¼ mile away, passing the formations known as the “Elephants.” They are immense and seemingly delicate and so beautiful. Heading back the other way, we saw a cactus coming into bloom, a prickly pear. A pic is attached. We were very fortunate.

A nice hike on a hike “primitive” trail took us across a dry wash and a nice climb over a rock hill to the backside of the Windows. On the way we met the same couple we met in Cortez, Jurdis and Katinka Spork from the Netherlands. We were delighted to meet each other again. Jurdis is a composer of some repute and shares our love of traveling in Germany. The Sporks even have a vacation home in Fritzlar near Kassel where Dave spent his exchange year. We shared contact info and went our separate ways to the wondrous sight of thousands of tons of rock suspended in arches high above the ground. About that time a couple of tour busses let off their charges who promptly charged to the formations. That is to say, it got very crowded very fast. Phew! We took our time though, and Connie got some amazing shots.

We returned to the bike with the intent to visit the Delicate Arch deeper into the park. There was a long line of cars waiting to park in our spot, so we made someone happy. A note: when you visit a National Park, especially in the west, you should go early in the morning, certainly before 11 AM. That way you can get in and find parking. Otherwise, you take your chances.

We got to the area for Delicate Arch but ran into a veritable traffic jam with a Lone Ranger working hard to keep order. By the time we got off the bike, talked to the ranger named Ralph who is himself a biker, and talked with Bob and Peter from Queens no less, the weather became hot, we were out of water and were dubious of a 3 mile hike that lay ahead. Discretion being the better part of valor, we loaded back up and left the Park to get supplies and take a relaxing ride along the Colorado River along Scenic Rt. 128. A gorgeous, easy and fun ride. We had a late lunch at a boat launch site and relaxed. A wonderful day, covering about 150 miles and tons of dreams. Nice.

Tomorrow we head out early for a long ride to Ely, NV, on the way toward Yosemite in California. Looking forward to the ride, and hoping the livestock stays somewhere other than in our lane. Tonight it’s rest and a little Stanley Cup finals. Just a period. Maybe two.

Dead Horse Point

Arches National Park

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Scenic drive along the Colorado River.

We bid farewell to Ouray, CO this morning and set out for Moab, UT.  It was a wistful departure because we both loved our short time in Ouray. It’s a quaint, very pretty little town set in a narrow gorge in the San Juan mountains, with snow capped peaks towering over sheer sandstone cliffs within yards of the cinder streets. Our hosts were so kind, the inn so charming, and the people so welcoming that we felt we could stay for a long while. It made me as though we were tucked in an Alpine village in Switzerland or southern Germany. We’ll be back one day. 

The ride was wonderful. We climbed some mountain roads complete with tight switchbacks and descended into valleys where the road opened up to allow the bike to stretch its legs. There were very few people or cars sharing the road. We did however share the road with a herd of cattle and calves for a spell. We had seen signs warning that cattle might be found in the roadway, but didn’t expect to encounter a hundred head being driven by herd dogs, real mounted cowboys and a foreman in his pickup. Seeing as the beasts were bigger than us, we obligingly (wisely) stopped to allow them by. At one point we were surrounded by the beasts and treated to a chorus/cacophony of moo’s. There was one senior cow that stood in the middle of the road glaring at us. She wasn’t moving, so neither did we.  There was literally nothing we could do, so we sat and hoped for the best. The rest wandered by munching on the abundant grass on the verge, leaving pungent evidence of their passage. Finally, momma figured we were no threat and moved aside allowing us to gingerly make our way through. A truly bucolic pause in our march.
We arrived in Moab in early afternoon. It was very hot and we were hungry, so to a chain restaurant we went. About the time we checked in, we were feeling punky – the food didn’t sit well. So we took the afternoon off, hoping to feel better in the morning. We may miss out on Canyon Lands and a State park called Dead Horse Point. A little disappointing, but we comfort ourselves with the thought that we can’t see everything, and recovery is more important.  (Sipping cold water and munching on the blandest crackers on the planet as I write.)   
Tomorrow we plan to visit Arches Nat’l Park, an iconic Utah site. So looking forward to it.
A couple of notes. Connie’s pics are again wonderful. There are a couple of shots coming out of Ouray that take in the town fairgrounds with high peaks in the background. They are stunning. At the same stop, we found old rail cars with the logos of the Denver- Rio Grande – Western Railroad. This pleases us so much because it grounds our love of the game, Rail Baron, in real life. 
We passed through the teeming community of Bedrock, CO, about 40 miles south and east of Moab. We saw 4 buildings and a small (the size of a modest water closet) post office, zip code 81411. Neither Barney nor Fred were in sight, and no sign of a Brontoburger drive in.  It is on the map though. I suspect that cartographers include such tiny burgs in order to fill up otherwise empty space. Seriously, it is a reminder that many folks live in small towns, and they necessarily experience this American life differently than we do. Not more or less important or real, just different.
Going back to Mesa Verde, I want to mention the Ranger who guided our tour. His name is Jeff Brown, about 40-ish and clearly a scholar; he cited research papers and articles during his narrative, including author and page. You know he isn’t paid much, but he loves what he does and his enthusiasm was contagious. We have met many like him. And the Park Service is very fortunate to have these folks, and so are we.
Finally, we have ridden over 4,600 miles as of today. We will be well over 5,500 in a few days when we drive toward Yosemite. 
Good night / good morning for now. More Wednesday night.

The ride today took us through lush valleys and red rock and desert and back again. Finally ending in Moab.

The “Million Dollar Highway” to Ouray, CO

Ok. Simple summary of the day. Wow. Just wow. We left Cortez before 9 AM and headed east on US Rt. 160 toward Durango, CO. As we were packing we met another couple from the Netherlands who expressed great wonder at the beautiful resources of the US. They were headed toward Monument Valley on their 2 week trip. Though their land has much beauty to enjoy, the US has such a rich bounty of natural beauty. They hope their grandchildren (yes, they are folks of a certain age) will also come to visit and explore the natural wonders our country has so wisely set aside as national parks and monuments.  
The ride to Durango was quick and a bit cool. You don’t expect 50 degrees in Jersey in late May. We had breakfast and then set out on the road north, US Rt. 550 aka “The Million Dollar Highway.” Over the next 75 miles through the San Juan mountains within the Rockies took us from a little over 5,000 feet to over 11,000 feet, through three passes (Coal Bank Pass, Molas Pass, and Red Mountain Pass.). The town of Silverton sits between the 2nd and 3rd passes and offers a great chance for a break. The route was created as a mining support road and built for the stage and a narrow gauge railroad to transport ore for shipment. Before debouching in Ouray, CO there are a multitude of hairpin turns and switchbacks with tremendous drops off the roadway. I am tickled to say we made it in great style and grand fashion (beats the alternative) and we saw some fabulous sights. You’ll notice some stunning pics of snow capped mountains, water falls, and even some Rocky Mountain Longhorn Sheep: we were much more impressed with them than they with us. Although traffic came to a stop, the sheep acted as though we all didn’t exist. (Human conveyances can continue their way when WE decide to give up our road, thank you.) An amazing ride and we’re proud of ourselves for making the trip.

Then Ouray. A small town that is just stunning. Snow capped peaks, forested vales, and startling blue skies at 7,200 feet. The last time we saw a sight like this was in the Swiss Alps. And so laid back. We checked into this charming little motel called the Ouray Inn and proceeded to the public thermal baths. The water in the kiddie pool is 92 degrees, and the adult soak is 104 degrees. If you have an ache or pain, it is soaked away in short order. While looking at the towering peaks. While watching climbers ascend a rock face less than 1,000 feet away. And no worries about drowning: there are about 50 high school aged lifeguards close to hand to make sure we don’t drown in the 3-foot deep water. Even though some of us have too much built-in flotation to risk drowning. But I digress. Again.

We met a wonderful couple from Phoenix, AZ, Lance and Ann, who sharde a table with us for happy hour offered by the motel. We appreciated their suggestions for sight seeing and their love of books, which endeared them to us immediately. We have fallen in love with this area and are determined to come again for an extended stay.

Had supper at a local pub and watched Game 1 of the Stanley Cup finals. Stupid Penguins won. But the beer was very good.

Tomorrow to Moab, UT and some more great parks. And now to bed.

The first wildlife we’ve seen bigger than a Prairie Dog.

“There’s iron in them hills.”

Heading into Ouray.

Cortez, CO

Had a relaxing day here in Cortez.  Not much news to report except that the ice cream from Sonic was yummy and our respective books have made for good reading.

Tomorrow we head into the San Juan mountains of Colorado to ride the “Million Dollar Highway.”  The day looks to be sunny and cool.  We’re both excited to make the journey as we’ve been looking forward to this ride since we decided to take this trip.

Cortez, CO and Mesa Verde National Park

 We rode 290 miles from Kanab and arrived in Cortez, Co around 4 PM. A longish but beautiful day. More desert and more red rock. We rested a bit then rode to Mesa Verde Nat’l Park for a twilight tour of the Cliff Palace where Pueblo’s built a community in an over- hanging sandstone cliff. Amazing hike! We clambered down rough hewn steps and a ladder to get below the cliff and into a grotto where a thriving community built a home out of native rock and mortar. The people developed a sophisticated agricultural system primarily on the Mesa above that fed its people and allowed flourishing culture between about 950 and 1250 AD. Most of the building we saw was completed by around 1240. There is evidence of several distinct cultures that lived in and on Mesa Verde beginning as early as 5,000 BC. They were all tough, hard working and completely unafraid of heights. Wow! Can you imagine raising small children where your front porch suddenly drops off over 1,000 feet? DYFS would have conniptions. Everything from food and water to building supplies, had to be carried up and down steep rock walls using hand and footholds carved into the rock face. No wimpy ladders for you, Laddie! (Take a look at the pics. Just saying) And the construction was perfectly proportioned: corners remain absolutely square and walls perfectly vertical (plumbed) using only very basic tools. Chopping was accomplished with stone axes carefully made by hand; an 8 inch thick tree took about 300 strokes. Most structure required up to 100 lengths of lumber. There are dozens of structures divided into a total of 150 rooms. It’s remarkable how smart and ingenious so-called primitive people were. And the dry climate has helped preserve the abandoned dwellings for the better part of 1,000 years. Ultimately population density and several severe droughts force the inhabitants to move elsewhere to find arable land.  
It was about a 20 mile ride to the park, and then another 22 miles back to the Cliff Palace over mountain roads with very tight curves and switchbacks. A little nerve wracking but very doable in daylight. The ride out of the park was a bit more interesting once darkness descended. No street lights and few caution signs. Hairpins are a LOT more interesting in the dark. 20 miles. We are the bomb. Mt. Washington, you are so much dust in our wake.

This visit is so meaningful because my folks took Mark, Mary Jane and me to this same place 50 years ago. We kids were small and completely unafraid and there were rock walls to climb. Looking back, I can only imagine what our mom was feeling. Speaking for myself, I don’t remember a lot about the visit back into 1966 other than fleeting snapshots in the memory bank. To return now closer to the other end of life fills me with love and thanksgiving for the life I really didn’t realize I had. (Tissues please.) Enough maudlininity.

Ok, now to some fun on our way here. At the junction of Rt. 89and US Rt. 160 that led us to Cortez, we stopped at a Shell station for a potty break. Upon returning to the bike from my foray to the necessary, I find a troupe of Chinese tourists surrounding the bike and applauding Connie. I was curious. (Understatement.) Turns out a group of 20 good folks from Hunan Province were disembarked from their Mercedes bus to find relief. They were parked right next to our bike. When I came out they were applauding my Queen for her courage and whatever on her trek across this great country on this flimsy steed. Not wanting to interrupt the plaudits to Her Majesty, I snapped a picture. (It may be included in the portfolio.) Modesty prevented me from interfering, but these sagacious easterners divined I was associated with the Queen’s quest. So we all simultaneously began snapping pictures of each other. It was very confusing.

Using the services of the translator from the group, we all shared where we were from and where we were headed. Connie, as Queen Regnant, (look it up), was given highest prestige, as was proper. Pictures were proposed and taken all around. (Sometimes stereotypes are spot on.) Turns out the translator had worked in Rochester, NY for 8 years and was familiar with American ways. Her name was Xi Xian Jiu and she was delighted to say she had worked in Rochester, NY during the 90’s and vacationed at her American boss’ cabin at Lake George in the beautiful Adirondack Mountains. She was so happy to meet Americans who were glad to meet her on this trip. She remembers her stay in the US with fondness and pride. Anyway, we had the most touching and hilarious photo-op in recent history. We enjoyed it immensely. And we are so proud that folks from foreign lands are happy to invest heavily in visiting our wonderful country.

Well enough for today. An adult beverage is singing its siren song and I must partake. Be well. And blessings.

Red Mesa

Mesa Verde

Cliff Palace

Thanks for seeing us!