Wandering Retirees

Sunday, July 14th

Today was a travel day. Mostly. After resting a bit yesterday, we packed up early and rode south to Waterton Park, part of the Canadian National Park System. Our ride took us through some pretty mountain valleys and forest preserves along Rt 1A, Rt. 22, Rtes. 3, 6 and 5 into Waterton Village. The terrain looked a lot like Montana and Wyoming across the border to the south, and there was an abundance of ranch land. We saw so many signs cautioning us that mountain goats, sheep, bears, moose, deer and caribou may cross the road over the next 24 kilometers, or 13 kilometers, so forth. (We even stopped for a trio of mountain goats who stared at us from the yellow lines before reluctantly ceding the macadam.). Add to that the advisory that cattle could be found on the road – “Stock Is Free Range”, and we had to maintain a modest speed to be safe.

We wound up taking a wrong turn (inevitable) onto Rt 3 toward Crowsnest, AB and rode into the lot of the Leitch Collieries for a u-turn. It looked interesting so we got off the bike and investigated. At the turn of the 20th century, a Canadian consortium tried to exploit the coal deposits in the northwest provinces. It was a huge undertaking because development required creating routes in and out of the area for trucks and rail lines to haul cargo. That meant enticing trained and skilled people, artisans, engineers, masons, and miners, to move to this isolated place with a sometimes forbidding climate and build the mines, storage bunkers, coke ovens, rail lines and depots, and all the infrastructure needed to get this industry off the ground. The Leitch Collieries ultimately failed not long after WWI after a number of accidents and a fluctuating commodities market, but not for a lack of will. It’s a fascinating story.

Anyway, we got ourselves turned the right way and scampered into Waterton Village mid-afternoon. It is an adorable town that’s built on Waterton Lake and sees thousands of tourists each year. During peak tourist season (July and August), the full time residents number about 250; by December they number under 50 (very durable) folks. We took a tour boat ride this evening with three of those folks as crew. They have so much to tell and show. The boat is the MV International of US registry and holds up to 160 people. The cruise took us south along the shore to the American end of the lake at Goat Haunt, administered by the National Park Service. The site was closed because the NPS has not received sufficient funding to staff and maintain the camp. (Sad) About midway down the lake, we saw a straight cut through the trees on both sides that marks the Canadian/US border. It’s pretty rugged terrain! We had our eyes peeled for wildlife and were rewarded with a majestic bald eagle surveying his domain from a perch in a tall pine. The cruise is a little pricey, but it was worth it because we learned so much and enjoyed the ride thoroughly.

Waterton Lakes National Park is the northern half of the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park, created by act of the US Congress and the Canadian Parliament in 1932. Signed into law by President Herbert Hoover and Canadian Prime Minister Richard Bennet, the combined park made sense because both areas included the same mountain range and both have nearly identical biological and ecological systems. Caring for the parks could be cooperatively managed, particularly in the event of emergencies. Like wildfires. Waterton alone has suffered three large wildfires over the past three years, with the Kenow fire in 2017 being particularly bad. The folks we spoke to were very grateful for the resources the US deployed to help Canadian firefighters control that blaze. The Village and some Glacier Park assets were spared because of their combined efforts. Now, two years later, we can still see the destruction to the local forests even as new growth rises.

In 1995, the UN (UNESCO) declared the combined Waterton Glacier International Peace Park a World Heritage site because of its uniquely beautiful environment and biological significance.

After the cruise, we came back to the cute cottage where we stayed and had to pause a moment. There was a doe just outside our front door who clearly felt this was her turf. Mostly she grazed and paid us no never mind. She even allowed us to come fairly close and we got some pics.

After a few minutes we headed back out to stargaze. Waterton Park is also an International Dark Sky Preserve with strict rules limiting night time illumination. The sky is clear and we had some great viewing without leaving town.

One final note: our one frustration with our time in the National Parks of both the US and Canada has been the lack of WiFi/internet service. That has made our data-intensive posts very difficult to upload. When you’re able to read this, please know we’re late not for lack of trying. Your reads and comments are so rewarding. We thank you, friends!

Monday, July 15th

Today we had a great time just wandering around this pretty little village, enjoying the sun, the kitschy shops and a breezy (30 mph) lakeshore stroll. We ate VERY well and kept on rolling. Eating is pretty expensive here: a large drip coffee is $3.00 Canadian ($2.25 US) and a delicious plate of ribs is $40.00 Canadian ($30.00 US). You get the picture. If you’re going to stay here for more than a couple of days, you definitely want to shop for groceries outside the park and tote them in. (But you have to try the ribs or the brisket – they are fabulous!)

No riding today. Just relaxation, eating fattening food and a good night’s sleep.

Tuesday, July 16th

This morning we left Canada and entered the US at Chief Mountain Port of Entry. It was nice to re-enter the States, though we found the surly attitude of the US border officers disappointing. Even with Global Entry passes (passports, too) it was clear we were an inconvenience to be endured and dismissed. There is a place for efficiency, for sure; but rudeness, no. Particularly from the very first people a guest meets when entering our country. And there was no line of cars waiting. I hope it was just a bad day.

We rode through the eastern part of Glacier National Park and enjoyed our ride. We stopped at one of those roadside attractions that promises great authentic Blackfeet Tribe souvenirs, weekly bull riding and good eats. There was a portable taco stand called “Wandering Gringos”. They were quite busy, which is amazing since only a few cars pass along the road every few minutes. So we had to try it. We split a “burrito supremo” with all the fixings for $10.50 plus tax. When it came out, it weighed at least a pound-and-a-half. It was fabulous! Not only tasty but in the way it “sticks to your ribs.” My ribs are still plastered with this gustatory extravaganza. We ate at 1:30 and it’s now 8:30 – hunger is not in my vocabulary.

Tomorrow, we will ride the Going to the Sun Road through Glacier. It’s one of the iconic motorcycle rides in the US. So, a Brioschi and then to bed because tomorrow we ride.

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Evening Cruise at Lake Waterton

Sunset in Lake Waterton

International Peace Park: Waterton Glacier

Evidence of a Massive Fire in Waterton Park in 2017

Beautiful Scenery and Lovely Walks

Hanging Out on the Iconic Red Adirondack Chairs

Traveling Back Into the USA to … Montana (this is the 3rd time we visited Montana on this trip!)

Mountains to Prairie and Back Again

A Roadside Food Truck Selling Mexican Food: The Wandering Gringo!